Drill Press spindle replacement WEN 4208t

[Julien65]

Hi Folks,

Excuse the simplistic question,

I am a novice and I want to change the spindle of this press with one with threads for a chuck
.
Can anyone tell me if a generic M2 taper spindle fit in the WEN 4208t?

I have used all kinds of search strings but can not find the answer that a novice would understand.

Thanks for reading my post,
Julien

 

[shawhite]

What are you trying to accomplish with a threaded spindle that you can’t achieve with a tapered?

 

[Julien65]

I'd like to do a little light milling.

 

[shawhite]

I figured that is where you were going. It would be cheaper to buy a cheap bench top mill. Other than the spindle not being suitable for milling the bearings are not rated for a side load not to mention you would need a x/y table

 

[shawhite]

This light milling what material are you planning to work with?

 

[matt_i]

Imo there won't be a purchased part. However if you can reverse-engineer, turn, harden and grind a replacement then you will be where you want to be.

I'm with the others advising you to get a purpose-built milling machine, even if you have to trade the drill press out of the shop for it. Another advantage is proper leadscrews and dovetailed ways designed for the loads involved in the job.

 

[Lightning rod]

Julien
even though I agree with the comments above, I doubt that any other spindle would work in this inexpensive entry level bench top mill. Or at least without major mods

However, do not despair. A chuck is not necessary for light milling
Before I purchased a mini mill, I used my floor standing drill for milling of plastic and aluminum
Obviously, you are not going to get 0.001 precision. The cutters will fit into the standard chuck
You will need an X-Y vice such as

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You will probably only get 1/16" or so precision if your lucky. Will this be precise enough?

what are you trying to do?

lots of YT videos that show this very task. If you are willing to try, learn along the way and have fun

Have at it. good luck

 

[Julien65]

Thanks for your response. You might have guessed aluminum and plastics. I have an x/y table. I would just be milling uneven edges just enough to put a smooth finish.

The little I've picked up, I can minimize lateral forces by forward feeding. I would like to get a decent little mill, and I probably will

It is nice to exchange with someone that knows what they're doing.

 

[cmandp]

I would advise against it. I've seen it done and it does work but it's also an easy and quick way to ruin the spindle taper and wear out bearings. It also won't give that great of a finish as a drill press has nowhere near the rigidity or mass needed. A milling machine has a drawbar that pulls the collet or arbor taper into the spindle taper. A drill press has no way to do that without re-engineering. Drilling pressure forces the tapers together, you don't have that with any side load.

If you want to smooth edges use a hand file, sandpaper, or if you want to make it go faster I'd suggest a belt sander. That way your drill press will be in good shape for what it was designed for, drilling holes.

 

[shawhite]

Thanks for your response. You might have guessed aluminum and plastics. I have an x/y table. I would just be milling uneven edges just enough to put a smooth finish.

The little I've picked up, I can minimize lateral forces by forward feeding. I would like to get a decent little mill, and I probably will

It is nice to exchange with someone that knows what they're doing.

For plastic and aluminum I would recommend a router.

 

[Julien65]

Imo there won't be a purchased part. However if you can reverse-engineer, turn, harden and grind a replacement then you will be where you want to be.

I'm with the others advising you to get a purpose-built milling machine, even if you have to trade the drill press out of the shop for it. Another advantage is proper leadscrews and dovetailed ways designed for the loads involved in the job.

It sounds like an off-the-shelf spindle won't work. I'm not surprised, because I just don't have the knowledge. I saw M2 taper shafts for sale and guessed that there might be a standard.

Obviously, I won't be fabricating one.

Thanks for responding

 

[shawhite]

You can cut and machine plastic and aluminum with wood working tools. You can cut with chop and table saws with the correct blade and if you want to machine an edge a router with either a carbide router bit or end mill should achieve the desired result

 

[Julien65]

The router sounds good. If only I could attach a plate to the jig I'm using. I bet you have some thoughts on that.

 

[shawhite]

What is the project?

 

[Julien65]

Finishing out 80% lowers. With the jig I'm using 95%= of the material is removed with the drill press drilling holes. Broken Armory jig.

 

[Indexmill]

Buy a mill to finish Lowers. Or buy em done.

 

[Malaworkerbee]

You can plunge mill a lower with the proper end mill on a drill press. But the second you add lateral loads the spindle falls out. Do this enough and your taper is ruined and it will constantly spit out the spindle.

A Chinese Seig X2 clone is what you want.

 

[shawhite]

Buy the 5d tactical jig or the easy jig 3 and use a palm router with the included plate . You can thank me later.