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Drill press table drill marks

bornbadbob

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Is there a decent way to repair drill marks on a drill press table? Only asking because I am looking at a used one on FB that looks to be in good shape but has some drill marks in the table. I don’t like drill marks, shows someone was lazy.
 
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bornbadbob

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Ty, looks like the only practical way to fix these is JB Weld. I was hoping for some sort of magic trick but Will resign myself to JBW
 

PoorUB

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I was one poster that said I used JB weld. I filled the holes in my drill press table probably fifteen years ago and the JB has held up just fine.
 

JradM

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You could probably braze the holes. I assume the tables are mostly cast.

I wonder if solder would stick... Assuming these aren't through holes, they're mostly a visual distraction. Solder melts at much lower temperatures so it might reduce the chance of cracking from heat expansion.

A pit or two on a well-used table is slightly embarrassing, but no big deal. Those "arcs of shame" though, are something else. Evidence a person just didn't care.
 

WillyBoy

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I've also had good luck with JB weld in smaller holes.
For larger holes, I've read some folks drill them out to a size that will take a standard tap and put a bolt in the hole and trim flush.

If it's like the one Mush described, then it may not be worth it unless you can replace the table. Another option if you're handy enough, attach a piece of steel plate to the original table. Add whatever clearance holes you need before installing.
 

kaymccampbell

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Ty, looks like the only practical way to fix these is JB Weld. I was hoping for some sort of magic trick but Will resign myself to JBW
If you mix some fine filings in with the JB Weld, you can kinda fake the cast iron look of the table. You mound up the mess in the holes, and then when you grind/sand it flush, it looks good-er. Experiment a bit. I've found that each repair takes different proportions. Luckily, I've never had to do it to a personal machine, cause I put something under the victim to be drilled, etc. I have, however drilled a Chinese **** vise or two in my day. I consider them sacrificial.
 

rlitman

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If you mix some fine filings in with the JB Weld, you can kinda fake the cast iron look of the table. You mound up the mess in the holes, and then when you grind/sand it flush, it looks good-er. Experiment a bit. I've found that each repair takes different proportions. Luckily, I've never had to do it to a personal machine, cause I put something under the victim to be drilled, etc. I have, however drilled a Chinese **** vise or two in my day. I consider them sacrificial.
Or just buy the steel filler epoxy putty that's already full of iron dust.

As for me, I don't let my OCD bother me. I've owned several pre-owned drill presses over the years, and all of them smiled at me. So long as it doesn't interfere with my vise sliding around flat on the table, it's purely cosmetics, and my drill presses are for doing work.
 

BTL-A4

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Something appears to be wrong with the Devitt website. The fonts are screwed up and when I try to click on some of the items, I can't. Weird. Might be me, though; I'll try on another computer later.
 

Firebrick43

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Moglice


This is what is used in the machine shop and maintenance repair world. Easy application that can be flat filed easily. Very nice folks too. Also, Devcon makes similar products.
Moglice is a way material, similar to rulon and Turcite but is pourable instead of sheet form.

Much to soft as a cast iron drill table top surface substitute

Devitt makes a steel filled epoxy however, it’s DWH 310.

The most common steel filled epoxy in the industrial world is belzona 1111
 

Beerhippie

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From this:

54418884605_3bb726a860_b.jpg

to this:

54420588614_1ce0f8fe14_b.jpg

Permatex Cold Weld--basically the same as JB (don't tell them I said so) and a file.

For large holes, turn the table upside-down on a waxed plate or plastic cutting board.

If you trim the epoxy with a razor or sharp wood chisel at the "plastic" stage--not soft and sticky but not fully hardened--it makes the filing much easier.
 
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bornbadbob

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I picked up the drill press today while my OCD says I gotta do something about them, they are pretty minor. I will clean this thing up a bit and decide from there. Maybe just a piece of plywood under the yet to be purchased drill press vice will make my OCD go away of at least move to the back ground.
 

Beerhippie

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I picked up the drill press today while my OCD says I gotta do something about them, they are pretty minor. I will clean this thing up a bit and decide from there. Maybe just a piece of plywood under the yet to be purchased drill press vice will make my OCD go away of at least move to the back ground.
1/4" aluminum plate. You can cut it with your wood-cutting circular saws and file or grind it easily.
 

OccupantRJ

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I actually drilled and tapped a couple 3/8-16 holes in my production type drill press table to screw a 3” long eye bolt into to use as an anti-spin stop. It gets removed and screwed into the table from underneath a small amount when I need it out of the way, or if I want to use it as a hold down bolt for the vise by running it up higher to put a washer and nut on it.
 

Firebrick43

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Are those buttress threads on the vise Beerhippie, or is the light and shadow confusing my eyes ?
Yes they are a form of buttress threads. That is a speed vise. The operator only has to loosen the screw a small amount to relieve tension and the lead screw pivots up and disengages the half nut allowing the jaw to be pulled back by hand, put a new piece in and drop the screw to engage the half nut.

A buttress thread is only way a system like that would work with just a single half nut. Any tapered thread form would push up and out of the half nut
 
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GeoBruin

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Yes they are a form of buttress threads. That is a speed vise. The operator only has to loosen the screw a small amount to relieve tension and the lead screw pivots up and disengages the half nut allowing the jaw to be pulled back by hand, put a new piece in and drop the screw to engage the half nut.

A buttress thread is only way a system like that would work with just a single half nut. Any tapered thread form would push up and out of the half nut
Another thing about those Cardinal vises, that plate that gets the holes drilled in it is just a a plate. You can unbolt from the jaws/base, flip it over and reinstall, and it will look brand new.
 

Beerhippie

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Another thing about those Cardinal vises, that plate that gets the holes drilled in it is just a a plate. You can unbolt from the jaws/base, flip it over and reinstall, and it will look brand new.
Unless the other side looks like this:

54418385294_942d89d359_b.jpg

But Cardinal is still in business and $60 will get you a new plate. I'm cheap.
 

GeoBruin

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Unless the other side looks like this:

54418385294_942d89d359_b.jpg

But Cardinal is still in business and $60 will get you a new plate. I'm cheap.
Lol! Probably just a piece of cold rolled bar right? Seems like it could be made pretty easily.
 

RoninB4

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They lie. It is tempered but not very hard. Drill bits barely notice the difference. Mild steel would work fine.
-It may have been hardened but was drawn back through tempering to a much softer or wasn't brought to full hard potential. If it was fully through hardened the only holes would be from carbide cutting edges, doesn't seen likely. It could even have been purchased in the annealed state from the mill. Annealed would be easier to machine and it doesn't take much of a stretch of the marketing imagination to regard annealed as being equal to "hardened tool steel". The jaw plates are described as hardened and ground alloy steel. Probably 4140, which is not really considered a "tool steel" but often used like it was for some components.

Just checked the website and the base plate is described as common CRS
  • PRODUCT INFO​

    Cold rolled steel base plate for strength, precision and long life. Comes in various sizes based on the SPEED-VISE size.



 

Beerhippie

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-It may have been hardened but was drawn back through tempering to a much softer or wasn't brought to full hard potential. If it was fully through hardened the only holes would be from carbide cutting edges, doesn't seen likely. It could even have been purchased in the annealed state from the mill. Annealed would be easier to machine and it doesn't take much of a stretch of the marketing imagination to regard annealed as being equal to "hardened tool steel". The jaw plates are described as hardened and ground alloy steel. Probably 4140, which is not really considered a "tool steel" but often used like it was for some components.

Just checked the website and the base plate is described as common CRS
  • PRODUCT INFO​

    Cold rolled steel base plate for strength, precision and long life. Comes in various sizes based on the SPEED-VISE size.


The jaws were definitely harder than the plate. I was able to easily draw-file the plate smooth and flat, but the jaws ate my file.
 

jmarkwolf

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Make a new plate from cold rolled and move on.

I have 3 Cardinals and wouldn't buy a plate from Cardinal, although I did buy new jaws from them for my used 6in when someone knockered them badly.
 

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Ultradog MN

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Ty, looks like the only practical way to fix these is JB Weld. I was hoping for some sort of magic trick but Will resign myself to JBW
I'm very much NOT a fan of JBW.
Have seen too many schlock "repairs" done with that stuff.
However, I did use it to repair a two head cast iron drill table that had some divots in it. It is a bit green compared to cast iron so you could see the repairs but the table looked much nicer afterwards.
I used a dremel tool to clean the divots so it would bond well and spread the JB in the holes.
Then used my hand belt sander to sand them flat.
It took a couple of belts but it did not put grind marks in the table and polished out pretty nice.
 

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BTL-A4

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Something appears to be wrong with the Devitt website. The fonts are screwed up and when I try to click on some of the items, I can't. Weird. Might be me, though; I'll try on another computer later.
I tried it at home, same thing. Here's a screenshot:
moglice website.jpg
I searched for "Devitt machinery" and got another website (devittmachinery.com) with similar info, but everything worked.
 
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bornbadbob

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I picked up a Canadian Blower and Forge drill press the others day, this is the one that has the drill marks in the table I have been asking about. I had not heard of this brand before. Can anyone tell me anything about them? I have read the history on google but information from the user side of things would be appreciated. Are these reasonable machines? Not expecting it to be an industrial piece but is it decent for home use?
 

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Beerhippie

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I picked up a Canadian Blower and Forge drill press the others day, this is the one that has the drill marks in the table I have been asking about. I had not heard of this brand before. Can anyone tell me anything about them? I have read the history on google but information from the user side of things would be appreciated. Are these reasonable machines? Not expecting it to be an industrial piece but is it decent for home use?
You call those drill marks? Hell, they're just beauty marks!
 

4xdog

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I kinda like this stuff better than JB Weld. It's been outside on some hose bibs at my house exposed to UV and four seasons of weathering for at least 10 years now and shows zero signs of degradation.


large_032628255159_H_001.jpg
 

Ultradog MN

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I picked up a Canadian Blower and Forge drill press the others day... Are these reasonable machines? Not expecting it to be an industrial piece but is it decent for home use?

It looks like a decent machine. Better than a lot of the china made stuff you see here.
If your use for it is mostly wood working the high speed motor would be fine.
For metal working I would want the slower motor.
 

jmarkwolf

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I picked up a Canadian Blower and Forge drill press the others day, this is the one that has the drill marks in the table I have been asking about. I had not heard of this brand before. Can anyone tell me anything about them? I have read the history on google but information from the user side of things would be appreciated. Are these reasonable machines? Not expecting it to be an industrial piece but is it decent for home use?
Looks a lot like my 1956 Delta Rockwell 15in.
 

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