drill press tapor chuck
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Jswain
Well-known member
You should be able to use the quill and push it down into a piece of wood against the table to seat it. Or hold a piece of wood and tap it up with a mallet. Make sure you line up the tang if it has a slot inside the drill press quill
Make sure the male & female portions are both cleaned well with a lint free rag. Should be a Morse taper. Or if it's on the chuck end likely a JT6 or like
Make sure the male & female portions are both cleaned well with a lint free rag. Should be a Morse taper. Or if it's on the chuck end likely a JT6 or like
do you mean morse taper?
make sure both pcs are clean of debris. insert the male tang intot he female and either a quick snap action into place or pull the quill down to the table to lock it.
make sure both pcs are clean of debris. insert the male tang intot he female and either a quick snap action into place or pull the quill down to the table to lock it.
Jswain
Well-known member
Not unless it is threaded for a drawbar through the spindle similar to a milling machine. Very unlikely on a drill press but there are some
RTM
Well-known member
Yup, friction, that’s why you need to get both clean.
Does your spindle have a male taper on it and the chuck a female taper? Examine the tapers closely and make sure that things are clean and free of burrs. You may have to stone the male taper to remove any burrs and clean the female taper removing and burrs present. Then assemble with a bit of a rap on the chuck to seat the tapers.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
When you ae cleaning up, inside the female taper, do not put your finger in the quill. Your finger will catch and the quill will rip your finger off. Steel wool on a stick works and is safe.
LopezBart
Well-known member
A lead hammer is a really useful tool on these. Make sure the taper is clean as others have noted, retract the jaws on the chuck, seat the taper and give the chuck a good tap w/ a lead hammer... the ex tool & die guy who ran the Student-Faculty shop at UC-Davis 40 years ago showed me that...
Any taper less than about 7 degrees per side is self-holding (for steel). If I remember correctly it's determined by the arctangent of the coefficient of friction...
Any taper less than about 7 degrees per side is self-holding (for steel). If I remember correctly it's determined by the arctangent of the coefficient of friction...
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
Can you post a photo of the arbor (taper)?
johnre
Well-known member
Before you give it a tap to seat the taper, make sure you withdraw the jaw pieces all the way into the body of the chuck. You don't want to strike them, as they'll get damaged.
seber
Well-known member
Make sure the tang is lined up with the slot in the quill. If it does not lock, you may need to use a clean up cutter to remove any burrs due to incorrect alignment in the past.
Zeus36
Well-known member
Yes, by friction only.
With the case of Morse Tapers, the friction between the taper and the socket creates a strong grip that holds the two pieces together by the large amount of surface contact between the taper and the socket. This increased surface area leads to a higher amount of friction, making the tapers stick together.
Clean steel on steel has a high static coefficient of friction at around 0.8. Typically, steel on steel dry static friction coefficient of 0.8 drops to 0.4 (drops by half) when sliding is initiated - and steel on steel lubricated static friction coefficient 0.16 drops to 0.04 when sliding is initiated.
Regularly cleaning the taper and socket can prevent buildup of oil, or debris that can increase friction.
whateg01
Well-known member
Most people probably never need to remove a tapered shank so there shouldn't be a need for regular cleaning. On a lathe ts or in the case where taper shank drills are used, it makes sense though.
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neophyte
Well-known member
If you don’t want to “bang” the arbor in place, you could also chill it in a plastic bag in the fridge or freezer, and then press it in place while the tapered arbor is still cold.
If the drill press is at “room temperature” (70 degrees+/-, the arbor should expand a bit as it warms up creating a tighter fit.
If the drill press is at “room temperature” (70 degrees+/-, the arbor should expand a bit as it warms up creating a tighter fit.
RTM
Well-known member
Sitting here watching the weather channel explaining how hard the Midwest is gonna get hammered. Not sure too many drill presses are going to see 70 this weekend. Not sure you will e en needs freezer, some can just set it outside. (-50, yikes, my avatar dogs were grumpy at 41 this am. The Husky was like sleeping against the door.)
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
