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drill sizes for Smurf

Shovelhead

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What size spade bits or hole saw for 3/4 and 1/2" ENT/Smurf?

Will same size PVC 2 hole straps work for strapping it?
EMT 1 hole straps?
Screw and bailing wire? ~grin

Thanks
 
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Jim greengo

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I would think 1" and 1 1/8" should give you enough working room,but I dont have any pvc handy that I can measure.
What at are you using it for?
I haven't seen that stuff used in years.
 
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Shovelhead

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Running it from main panel in metal building over the hill and thru the woods to junction boxes in wood framed room.
Nothing is typical construction.
Metal wall girts, main I-beams, 2x4's nailed/screwed flat in places. I need something I can snake around. It will all be behind plywood walls.

It's like going thru yer exhaust system to replace a spark plug. .........
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
What size spade bits or hole saw for 3/4 and 1/2" ENT/Smurf?

Will same size PVC 2 hole straps work for strapping it?
EMT 1 hole straps?
Screw and bailing wire? ~grin

Thanks
Dont know on the drill bit sizes but there are ENT specific straps and I imagine the PVC straps arent listed for use with ENT...
 

rlitman

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Dont know on the drill bit sizes but there are ENT specific straps and I imagine the PVC straps arent listed for use with ENT...
I wonder why. Do your special ENT straps have a rib that keys into the ENT?

I have used PVC cement to glue ENT into PVC fittings. Not for electrical uses, but my point here is that so far as I've seen, ENT ODs match PVC schedule 40.
 

sparky 1971

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My experience with ENT has been limited to running it from a panel to attic for "future use". I've just used rigid one hole straps for it and haven't been given any grief over it yet. As far as the hole, I think I'd probably drill 1-1/4" for both sizes and call it a day. If necessary, use nail plates if you're too close to the face of the stud.
 
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nadogail

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I don’t guess on drill or hole saw sizes. I use a caliper and measure before I screw something up.
 

rlitman

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If an exact size hole is drilled through the studs for ENT, someone's gonna have a helluva time getting it from point A to point B. Especially if it's going through more than four or five studs.
True. Plus the holes had better all be straight through, but in reality, they're always at an angle.

Another issue is keeping the holes in a straight line. Once that conduit is allowed to zig-zag, pulling becomes quite awful.

I use a laser level to mark the straight line, and a speed square to mark the hole centers before drilling.
 

grounded-b

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Milwaukee, WI
Don't rely on the snap together couplings. I used some ENT on a job, and I have 2 snap couplings come apart behind drywall, when pushing the fishtape through. I you use snap couplings, also slather some PVC cement on there for backup
 
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Shovelhead

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DEEP EAST TEXAS
Don't rely on the snap together couplings. I used some ENT on a job, and I have 2 snap couplings come apart behind drywall, when pushing the fishtape through. I you use snap couplings, also slather some PVC cement on there for backup
That’s a good call, but I’ll be pulling wire before the walls are covered.
Thanks
 
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