Drill-Tap
- Thread starter oldcpecdr
- Start date
Even as a machinist, tasked with drilling and taping holes, I've never seen one of these. That was back in the'80s. Maybe that's why.Hi
I came across these for the first time today after searching my pathetic collection of taps.
Do these really work ? Maybe only in aluminum? Or some low grade steel ?
Educate me please....BEFORE I buy some.
Thanks
Mike B
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These work great I use them all the time. Work great in most materials and on steel and harden steel they don’t like anything thicker then 1/4. They will just have to be slow on thick stuff. Also they don’t like being used with a drill. The impact is the best way also I will drill a pilot hole first the. Go in with the drill taps. Also I go in and back off the go in and back off kinda like a normal tap just I push it farther before I back it off. Also oil helps and makes them last longer but I have also used it with out no problem. The smaller sizes and great in thin metals.
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Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
I have some in 1/4-20. Chuck them up in my cordless and go to town on 1/4 material or less. Handy if you just need a little mounting screw hole. Mine are Norseman, not the hex shank kind, but same idea.
Stuey
Well-known member
These are primarily for sheet metal or very thin plate and bar stock.
Robby321
Well-known member
Work just fine ..BUT..MUST use like a regular tap or break it. Drill an Taps been around a LONG time..(retired machinist). Perfect for drill and tapping a lot of holes sheet metal. Drill the hole, start the tap and use the drift to do the tapping, back and forth.
rmack898
Well-known member
I use them when ever possible in material up to 3/4" thick and in screw size up to 1/2-13. A rigid set up and a thru-hole are required.
I've drilled and tapped hundreds of 1/2" holes in 1/2" plate using a mag drill.
Heres a link to a demo I did in 1/4" steel
I've drilled and tapped hundreds of 1/2" holes in 1/2" plate using a mag drill.
Heres a link to a demo I did in 1/4" steel
Keith Fenner did a you tube vid on the Dewalt version, he had positive review
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
Naw, that's wivestale. It's not a straight flute traditional tap, no need to break the chip. Running it under power is the whole point of it's existence.
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
Nice, you made a demo, from freaking TODAY!
Do you recall who's 1/2 coarse bit you are using? I'd like to pick one up this winter.
PassnThru
Well-known member
Nice demo
What if your drill press doesn't reverse? Just hold it at break though and turn it off and then work it off or unchuck the bit?
I don't have any experience with these either and it seems like to me that I could screw it up by not having the correct feed rate once the tap connects. I'm sure it's going to pull itself through at some point but those first few threads would be crucial.
rmack898
Well-known member
I made that demo about 2 years ago for someone else, I remembered it when I saw this thread so I posted it on Ytube today.
I'm not sure of the brand of tool off the top of my head but I know it was USA made and I bought it from McMaster.
Nice demo
What if your drill press doesn't reverse? Just hold it at break though and turn it off and then work it off or unchuck the bit?
I don't have any experience with these either and it seems like to me that I could screw it up by not having the correct feed rate once the tap connects. I'm sure it's going to pull itself through at some point but those first few threads would be crucial.
If you don't have reverse you can put the tap in a tap socket and put the socket in the chuck. Use a light pressure on the quill to keep the tap engaged as it cuts the threads and let it rip. It's a thru-hole so let the tap keep going until it comes out the bottom, just make sure your setup has enough clearance for the tap to clear the material.
We use them all the time at the shop for electrical panels and they save a boatload of time. The panels are pretty thick but I'm not sure if they are 11 or 12 gauge. Greenlee is the brand we use and they hold up pretty well, just about all are 10-32 holes.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
We use something similar for tapping ductile iron water mains, I have 3/4 & 1" tap drills, I drill , tap & install a shut of valve without shutting the main, they work great. The bits are a little pricey though, but it's all relative.
https://www.jimslimstools.com/Produ...-Tap-for-Cast-and-Ductile-Pipe__RD-04391.aspx
https://www.jimslimstools.com/Produ...-Tap-for-Cast-and-Ductile-Pipe__RD-04391.aspx
PassnThru
Well-known member
That would definitely give it the play you would need to allow you to easily match the feed speed.
Perfect - thanks.
I use them all time and work great once you know the limitations. To make them less prone to break, use the locking extension that comes in the kits to give a bit of play. Don’t use a big heavy drill, if you shift your hand around the bits will snap. I use a 12v screwdriver with a clutch. Always pre drill a pilot hole. I also have noticed the finer threads don’t like thick metal. I am now replacing after wearing down threads instead of breaking
I tap roll bar tubes frequently, 6-32 can be scary but 8-32 up are good.
They also work great on plastic.
I tap roll bar tubes frequently, 6-32 can be scary but 8-32 up are good.
They also work great on plastic.
Jmonnty
Well-known member
We use installing hardware on 16ga hollow metal frames with a 12ga reinforcing plate behind, probably a couple thousand holes a month with a hand tap gun, only reverse once to get out of the hole, no chip breaking required. Stop using when they get dull and they are fine, we do use a pilot drill, 1/8 with a 12-24 drill tap.