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Drill then ream

Bolster

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I'm reading a shop manual that recommends, for precise holes, that first you drill slightly undersize, and then you ream to the finished diameter.

I don't understand this procedure...why is a drilling not sufficient? What's the reamer doing that the drill bit can't?

And second question, are all reams tapered? If yes, then aren't you getting a tapered hole with this procedure? If no, how do you get the ream started in the hole?
:headscrat
 
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Uncle Buck

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Reamers are used for high precision applications that most of us will not generally encounter. Drilled holes are not as concentric as a hole that was first drilled, then reamed.

Another thing to remember about using reamers (if you do ever use one) is this. You always turn a reamer in a clockwise direction and you never turn in the counter clockwise direction.

Do not use the reamer to remove more than 0.002 to 0.003 inches of metal. If the hole is too small, enlarge it with a drill before reaming it.
 

stock z/28

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On most holes in cast iron and steel that I need a relatively pricise hole I will drill to within about a 1/64 of size and then ream.


If I need a pretty close hole size id the same only I generally use a an adjustable carbide tiped reamer that has a small screw to expand the flutes? a bit. I use small dial bore gages to check size.



In my opinion a drill may drill a hole considerably bigger than itself.

Say a 1/2" drill with the point off center will possible "orbit" off center and kind of bore the hole instead of drilling thus producing a hole considerably larger than a 1/2"
 

A_Pmech

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There are many types of reamer. Machine, taper, hand, adjustable, etc. Each has a specific use. For the purpose of discussion, I'll use the machine reamer as an example:

A machine reamer has three main purposes:

1) To size a hole

Drills do not make an accurate hole. A two-fluted drill will tend to drill an equilateral tri-lobed hole, especially until the margins are engaged in the work. A lightly fed drill of sufficient length will drill a helical tri-lobed hole with a helix angle equal to the helix angle of the drill. Due to this effect, along with the additive effect of drill point runout, and the "orbiting" effect that naturally occurs when the web is not perfectly ground, an oversize hole is produced. The severity of the effect depends on feed, speed, material, drill grind, lubricant / coolant, etc. There are standard tables for predicting the amount of oversize by drill size.

A reamer, properly used, can improve hole size accuracy by 10 to 15 fold over a drill and is much more repeatable.

2) To improve the holes cylindricity. (there's that word again)

This goes back to the tri-lobed hole. A reamer is a hybrid metal displacing and metal cutting tool with many more flutes than a drill, negating the lobing effect that occurs with a two-flute tool. As a consequence, running a reamer in a drilled hole will improve the cylindricity of the hole simply due to it's cutting edge geometry.

3) To improve the surface finish.

Drilled holes normally have a rough surface finish. This can be unnacceptable in precision fits, bearing locations, etc. Like a drill, a reamer is a hybrid cutting and cold-flowing tool. Unlike a drill, the cold-flowing quality is used to improve the surface finish of the hole. To make this possible, a reamer has two cutting edges:

The first cutting edge is the relieved chamfer of the margin at the "business end' of the reamer. This edge performs the initial hole sizing operation and has sufficient edge relief to permit light cutting. However, it is not relieved as much as a drill, causing some light springback to occur.

The second cutting edge is the margin, which runs the full length of the flutes. This edge has little to no relief, making it a poor cutting edge. Thus, when the material springs back against the margin, it burnishes or "cold flows" the material as it's unrelieved cutting edge "wipes" over the surface. This operation dramatically increases the surface finish of the hole.

Good surface finishes are the key to precise fits and long-lasting bearing surfaces.

All other reamers are a hybrid of these general principles. Taper reamers have a more relieved margin, to permit making a taper from a step-drilled hole. Adjustable reamers are just that - adjustable for size. Adjustable "blade-type" hand reamers are useful if you need to enlarge a hole slightly. A two-flute drill is a poor choice for enlarging a hole slightly as it will tend to grab. Hand reamers operate on the same principle as machine reamers, except they generally have a greater chamfer angle for easy cutting and include a pilot to help locate the reamer in the drilled hole.
 
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rsanter

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typically a drill bit will drill a slightly oversized hole or can drill an oblong hole. this is because of the center of the drill which can 'walk' a bit or if it is not ground perfectly there will be more cutting on one side than the other.

the only way to assure a round hole of the size you want is to use a reamer or a boring bar/boring head

reamers have a lead in bevel or taper on the end.
typicall you will drill a 64th or 32nd smaller in prep for reaming

bob
 
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ZRX61

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My stepdad picked up a tin of assorted reamers from someplace & decided to give them to me. A parcel duly arrives in the mail from the UK containing the tin & painted on the side of it in big letters it says "Reamers, ***". Still raises a smile every time I look at it.
 

ZRX61

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typically a drill bit will drill a slightly oversized hole or can drill an oblong hole. this is because of the center of the drill which can 'walk' a bit or if it is not ground perfectly there will be more cutting on one side than the other.
bob
Indeed, just trying drilling a 1/2in hole in some thin Al or steel plate sometime & look at the shape of the finished hole....:wtf:
 

Kevin54

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Do not use the reamer to remove more than 0.002 to 0.003 inches of metal. If the hole is too small, enlarge it with a drill before reaming it.

You want to leave yourself about .010 on a hole for ream material. A drill itself can drill .002 to .003 oversize and that combined with being out of round.........
 

arkangel06

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Reamers produce more exact hole

And yes they make stright reamers.

So if you need an exactly 3/8'' hole you drill it out with the next size down then send a reamer through to clear it to exactly 3/8'' dia.
 
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Thedroid

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I have a selection of tapered reamers that are straight up at the top. That way the tapered part will slowly work its way in and the straight part will finish the whole.
 

ossaguy

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I bought a set of those hole saw bits from the SO guy that work great for sheet metal or plastic,and are supposed to give you a perfectly round hole in 1 step.I haven't been able to try them out yet,though.

Steve
 

X1 Mike

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In my opinion a drill may drill a hole considerably bigger than itself.

Say a 1/2" drill with the point off center will possible "orbit" off center and kind of bore the hole instead of drilling thus producing a hole considerably larger than a 1/2"


That is a technique people should remember, any machinist worth his salt has intentionally sharpened a drill off center for just this purpose. :beer:
 

autoace

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Reamers are used for high precision applications that most of us will not generally encounter. Drilled holes are not as concentric as a hole that was first drilled, then reamed.

Another thing to remember about using reamers (if you do ever use one) is this. You always turn a reamer in a clockwise direction and you never turn in the counter clockwise direction.

Do not use the reamer to remove more than 0.002 to 0.003 inches of metal. If the hole is too small, enlarge it with a drill before reaming it.

+1 UB hit it on the head here, no need for me to make a redundant post.:thumbup:
 

nissan_crawler

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if you need a 1.511 hole, I can't see how a wobbly *** bit will get it very accurate, either.

Me, I would drill a 1.5" hole and get a reamer.
 

X1 Mike

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In regards to how much stock to leave it depends on the required size.

1/32 – 1/8 = .003- .006
1/8 – ¼ = .005- .009
1/4 – 3/8 = .007 - .012
3/8 – ½ = .010 - .015

By the time you get up to 1” you should leave about 1/32”. You don’t want to leave to little stock because you will risk burnishing (polishing) the hole. It is also important to use the right coolant. Kerosene works well with aluminum, Steel likes a oil like Tap Magic, and you should cut cast iron dry. :thumbup:
 

X1 Mike

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if you need a 1.511 hole, I can't see how a wobbly *** bit will get it very accurate, either.

Me, I would drill a 1.5" hole and get a reamer.

My first mistake was telling the "old timer" that I worked with when I was an apprentice the same thing you just said. I was laughing at him right up until he showed me.

:beer:
 
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Bolster

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Wow, thanks for the great education guys.

The place I keep reading about reamed holes is in creating the hinge pin in a folding knife blade. Makes sense you'd want that to be perfectly round and burnished.

Now I gotta look for more tools...reamers!! And they sound more expensive than drill bits. Sounds like the sort of tool I'll be buying on an as-needed basis.
 
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