warmpancakes
Well-known member
anybody made a JIG or tool for drilling bolt heads for safety wire?
drilling bolts for safety wire
- Thread starter warmpancakes
- Start date
Zrexxer
Well-known member
You mean like these?
http://www.google.com/products?hl=e...esult_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CCMQrQQwAg
http://www.google.com/products?hl=e...esult_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CCMQrQQwAg
OP
warmpancakes
Well-known member
read the reviews on them basically 40.00 worth of junk the ones tto drill the threads are nice but wont drill the head
tatra
Well-known member
just buy new bolts.........if you are needing the security of lockwire, why take a chance with used hardware?...........and even if modifying new stock, by the time you buy the jig, bits and do the work, probably further ahead to just pay for them already done..........personally, loctite is my preference and never a prob.........we do lockwire locomotive gear trains at work and new hardware is specified for every repair..........
OP
warmpancakes
Well-known member
they are new bolts, they are M12x1.5x60mm bolts nobody has them predrilled, also Loctite is not accepted by the race track safety wire only
copterdoctor
Well-known member
I've got a drill block... it's a lot like the one in the link.... mine works great...
OP
warmpancakes
Well-known member
Is it for drillibng the head or threaded area?
OP
warmpancakes
Well-known member
jkeyser14
Well-known member
Just clamp the head of the bolt in a vise and use a good cobalt drill bit (HSS will dull quickly and carbide will shatter if you look at it wrong). Throw it on your drill press (or mill if you are lucky enough to have one). Take a lot of pecks bringing the bit fully back out every few seconds to clear any chips. Spray some WD-40 or dab cutting oil on the bit to keep it cool and help evacuate chips.
I've done hundred of these in my life. The heads of grade 8 bolts really aren't that hard, just take your time and be gentle.
Get a threaded rod connector (looks like a long nut). Drill a hole through it on a flat. Then, depending on how many holes you plan on using it for, you could harden it so as not to wallow out the hole. Thread the bolt into the connector to a desired depth, and drill. Works pretty good, but if you are only doing a few, I would go with the flattening of the threads and drillling the flat like rodm1 said.
Dave
________
NO2 VAPORIZER
Dave
________
NO2 VAPORIZER
Last edited:
Nealcrenshaw
Well-known member
Exactly why would safety wire go through the head? and this "safety wire" is this something akin to a cotter pin?
bmxr4life87
Well-known member
Safety wire is used on failure prone fastners in industrial engines and aerospace applications it is like cotter pins but It provides a constant tightening pull on the bolt head when wired properly
JHunter
Well-known member
You safety wire the head if its going in to a blind hole.
Stick Figure
Well-known member
for those that aren't familiar w/ safety wire this may give you an idea ...
http://www.ultralightnews.com/pilotslounge/safetywire.htm
a lot of other good links on the web.
http://www.ultralightnews.com/pilotslounge/safetywire.htm
a lot of other good links on the web.
Amitygravel
Well-known member
Cobalt bits, for sure. Lubricant another must do, even solid Crisco shortening will work. It also works really well for tapping threads. A drill press at slow speed makes for straight holes and a lot less broken bits! Make your own jig , at the very least clamp two pieces of wood together and drill a slightly smaller diameter hole centered between the two halves and clamp the bolt between them.
Nosferatu
Well-known member
This is how I've always done it on race bikes: http://www.rc51.org/wire1.htm
nate379
Banned
What bike is that on? I don't think I have ever seen most of that stuff fall off a bike before!
WSMC633
Well-known member
That particular bike is an RC51. All motorcycle racing orgs. require essentially the same things to be safety wired. Caliper bolts, Pinch Bolts, Axle Nuts, Oil Filter, Drain Plug, Hose Clamps, Radiator Cap, Banjo Bolts, Any Plug or Bolt with Fluid behind it.
As for drilling them, I've drilled tons for race bikes. Center punch, vise, Drill Press, HSS Bit, Piece of Cake. Drilling with a hand drill is possible, just be careful not to snap the bit if you flex it while drilling. Not terribly fun to get the broken part out of a bolt
Nealcrenshaw
Well-known member
Wouldn't lock washers be easier? I never had anything come apart using them.
Diesel_Crawler
Well-known member
Tatersalad
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2010
- Messages
- 37
I race a stock car at a local track and they require us to safety wire our drain plugs and the inspection plug in our oil pans. After removing the safety wire on the drain plug to change oil and finding them only hand tight I see why the tracks make you do this. It's amazing what the vibration of these cars will work loose. What I do when needing a new plug is install it in the pan so my hole will be clocked right, use a centerpunch on the flat of the hex, and drill diagonally starting at the side on the hex and go out through the top of the bolt head. Also another easy trick is to weld a washer onto the top of the bolt and run the wire through that. Usually I just drill mine because I think it looks cleaner. Hope this helps!
WSMC633
Well-known member
Lock washers aren't considered a positive locking device. Neither is locktite. I've seen both come loose from the track. The sustained high RPM of the engine in race cars/bikes will produce the perfect vibration to loosen bolts.
The other great benefit of Safety wire is it is an immediate visual confirmation to mechanics and the folks in Tech inspection that critical fasteners are tight. It's easy to miss a fastener in the heat of battle. Not so easy when you know there should be safety wire on it.
It's all about safety. When myself, friend or customer is flying around a track at way over 150mph, I can see absolutely zero reason to cut corners on safety.
TAMPAGT07
Well-known member
I agree. If a bolt get's loose, I just tighten it back up. If it falls out, just put it back.
TAMPAGT07
Well-known member
Have you ever had a problem with bolts coming unloose? And if so, which ones?
WSMC633
Well-known member
Yes, I've seen rearset bolts work loose, shift linkages, Clip-ons, brake lever retaining bolt (was a nylock!), off the top of my head.
I've also been on the track twice when someone lost an oil drain bolt. One time he oiled down a good chunk of track, and we all had to sit around for an hour while they cleaned it up. The other time it led to a bad crash. Coming off the fast straight, into hard braking into a left. Back tire covered in oil, the instant he leaned over it was a lowside. Close to 100 mph when he hit the ground. Pretty sure I remember that one leading to an ambulance ride for the guy.
Most of these occurred on non-race prepped bikes. (non safety wired). Except for the clip-ons which were on my racebike. I know they were good and tight but they still came loose. Two bolts, on one side. The left side clip-on was fine.
Jared
Well-known member
This doesnt work so well when your drain plug just fell out at 7k rpm or your axle shaft just fell out.
Toolhorder
Well-known member
My left clip on pinch bolt just came loose at 300 miles on my new R1. It happens more than people think. I'm not a track racer but I'm seriously thinking about safety wiring the bike just to be sure.
Red Green
Well-known member
I have had stuff with lock washers come loose. When you are turning an engine at 6800+ rpms all sorts of stuff comes loose in a hurry. In addition to that lock washers tear up the face of whatever you put one on. If you take the part off a few times its in pretty rough shape especially if it is made out of aluminum.
Stick Figure
Well-known member
or even worse you could be in a plane when the bolt falls out. Gonna need a really long magnet to snag that bolt and put it back in!
OP
warmpancakes
Well-known member
Perfect thanks alot,
for those that are interested these are for the caliper bolts, on the wifes "toy" Ive had 2 work their way loose they were red loctited and torqued perfect, about an hour of drilling and some wire and the problem is solved
Knowing that they'd be a major PITA to drill, because of their small size, I'm desperately seeking some M5X0.8 socket head cap screws with heads drilled for safety wire? Length is relatively unimportant, as I only need about a 15mm long screw and can always cut them down. Can some one PLEASE give me a lead?
caper
Well-known member
We use safety wire on many of the critical fasteners on our aerial devices.Nothing like having the bolts holding the bucket your in fall off and drop your bucket into some 46kv powerlines.
Not everything is as simple as "if it falls out,just put it back".Many things that are safety wired are structural components that may mean the difference between life and death in some situations.