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Drilling holes in angle iron

bumblebee

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Jan 1, 2011
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I have some 2"x2" angle iron 1/8" thick. I need to drill a 1/2" hole in it and am wondering if that will affect it structurally.
 
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rwhite692

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Probably no practical effect, for any typical application...

Of course, any removal of material will affect the material structurally.

What are you making?
 

matt_i

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The answer is yes, of course removing some of the cross section affects the structure of a piece of steel.

However, most pieces of angle iron are not loaded up anywhere near full load capacity.

As has been noted, much more information is needed to give a useable answer.
 
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bumblebee

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It's on my utility trailer. The side uprights, which are about 12-16" high, are made of angle and I want to drill a hole in each one near the bottom to use as anchor points.
 

manwithtools

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I'd do that in heart beat. No reason it would affect anything remotely related to structural strength on a utility trailer upright.
 
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Handyfarmer

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in the high plains of Colorado
look at a truss, wood or metal, many a truss is nearly as strong as if it were a solid piece,

but one can if properly placed have a lot of holes in a beam or supporting beam, with little effect on strength one major example is aircraft ribs and frame members,

if the edge is not compromise usually the strength is not compromised, to any real extent, but with that said if a failure does occur many times it will be where the materiel is removed,
 
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58Yeoman

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Not wanting to hijack your thread, but the other day I was drilling holes in some 1/8" plate, and the chuck fell off my drill press. Geez... I looked it up on the net, and it says to heat the chuck up to 400* in the oven for an hour, slip it on the shaft, then turn it down onto a hardwood board. Does that sound about right? No keyway, shaft or screws holding it. It's a Daytona, Taiwan model. I think it's a Jacob chuck.
 

rockettgpw

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Not wanting to hijack your thread, but the other day I was drilling holes in some 1/8" plate, and the chuck fell off my drill press. Geez... I looked it up on the net, and it says to heat the chuck up to 400* in the oven for an hour, slip it on the shaft, then turn it down onto a hardwood board. Does that sound about right? No keyway, shaft or screws holding it. It's a Daytona, Taiwan model. I think it's a Jacob chuck.

That sounds about right to refit a chuck on a jacobs taper, make sure you have no burrs on either side of the taper (male/female) and no lubrication- clean and dry. It probably wont need so much heat soaking as they are very good at self locking together. Check the jacobs site if you havent already.
 

KDXSR5

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Another good opton is to weld on D rings, or bolt D rings through the floor and floor crossmembers. I have done both, and both work well. If you are just using the holes for light duty ratchet straps, which it sounds like you are, the holes should be fine. Best of luck!
 

matt_i

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On the tapers, I like to clean them up with brake cleaner. Seat by hand and then one heavy blow from a deadblow hammer (soft with internal shot).

If there's trouble there could be a burr. Marking the taper with sharpie and them lightly rotating the taper while in light contact will give some ideas if there's a high spot.
 
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bumblebee

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Thanks for the replys. They will mostly be used to strap down my sxs and other light weight things. Looks like I got some drilling to do!
 

KDXSR5

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I'd rather drill small holes for eye bolts, ideally vertically through the perimeter frame of the floor.

Cheers

Fred W B

If you go this route, please, please ,PLEASE use forged eye bolts!! It is another great option that I have done in the past, but I learned the hard way that the bent rod type of eye bolt is not the correct piece of hardware for the application. They WILL open up on you! The forged ones are not much more expensive, and are a heck of a lot higher rated and safer.
 
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