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Drilling into the foundation?

brothernov

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Oct 27, 2017
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My wife wants a shelf in the basement. I've always been leary of drilling holes in the concrete walls/foundation. This shelf would only be about 4' long. I'd need at least 2, but probably 4 holes to hang a couple shelf brackets. Am I being unreasonably cautious about drilling holes into my foundation walls?
 
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Sturgeon

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Can't imagine what the issue would be other than hitting a pc of rebar. Your just pounding in some 5/16"x3" + - anchors right?
 

Uncle murph

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My wife wants a shelf in the basement. I've always been leary of drilling holes in the concrete walls/foundation. This shelf would only be about 4' long. I'd need at least 2, but probably 4 holes to hang a couple shelf brackets. Am I being unreasonably cautious about drilling holes into my foundation walls?
Are these Stanley Roper shelves or just regular ones?
 
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brothernov

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Had to google "Stanley Roper Shelves" :) I was just going to attach a couple "L" brackets to the wall and put a 4' long 1" x10" on them. Haven't drilled a lot in concrete, but when I have I'd had success with tapcons. Is there something better I should be considering?
 

PCustoms

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Any reason she can't use a freestanding shelf?

No issues with drilling walls, just time consuming and not easy to move.
 

Walkers

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Drill it and use Tapcons. A good rotohammer makes this job so easy that it becomes abot ashard as putting anchors in drywall.
 

CraigStu

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I grabbed a $100 corded hammer drill 2 years ago and agree w/ Walkers. I was only going to drill 4 holes so bought the Tapcons along w/ a Tapcon bit figuring my standard drill would just take a little longer. I never got the first one drilled full depth before heading back to L for the hammer drill. Really it is almost magic. BTW you need to clean the dust out of the hole before running the Tapcon in. Otherwise it can fill the bottom of the hole stopping the Tapcon before it gets tight. A turkey baster will usually do it. I have also used a wire tie wiggled around in the hole w/ a shop vac to **** out the dust.
 

rust in the eye

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Drill it and use Tapcons. A good rotohammer makes this job so easy that it becomes abot ashard as putting anchors in drywall.
This^.
Just be sure to use the correct size bit, they come with the Tapcons, drill deep enough and clear debris from the hole. Tapcons are hard, read that as brittle so they will break if the hole is not prepared properly. Broken ones will remain until the second coming.
 

cgrutt

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I'd avoid drilling clear through especially if wall is below grade. I had a sprinkler system (lawn) installed in my last house that required a 1" hole being drilled through foundation (above grade) for the water supply. Contractor used a standard hammer drill which had no problem drilling hole but he cracked the wall from hole straight down about 9' to the floor. Crack was below grade and was just a hairline crack but was clearly a result of the vibration from drilling into wall. It never spread any further or leaked but suppose it had potential to do so. Just be careful because $hit happens....
 

Old Moparz

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I've drilled into my foundation which is always a pain compared to wood. Any chance you can suspend the shelving from the joists in the basement ceiling?
 

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BombShelter

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I definately would not drill through a block wall. You might want to do a test hole first, if your not getting a clean hole forget it. I use all three popular methods, drilling, Hilti Pin Gun and .22 explosive pins depending on the condition and age of the concrete. Tapcons is probably the best way to go but the Red Head Expanding Slugs are also very nice depending on the project.

The problem with block walls is the moisture inside the blocks will eventually rust the pins/screws or work it's way through the holes and mold will start growing on the wood.
 

Rc_Guy

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I definately would not drill through a block wall. You might want to do a test hole first, if your not getting a clean hole forget it. I use all three popular methods, drilling, Hilti Pin Gun and .22 explosive pins depending on the condition and age of the concrete. Tapcons is probably the best way to go but the Red Head Expanding Slugs are also very nice depending on the project.

The problem with block walls is the moisture inside the blocks will eventually rust the pins/screws or work it's way through the holes and mold will start growing on the wood.
He said it was poured concrete.

I wouldn’t hesitate to drill into a poured wall but I think I’ve drill through a few hundred already, sometimes drilling up to a 10” hole through it.
 

acer66

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I would have no problem drilling into concrete or blocks.

If it’s dryloked etc on the inside not so much though and I would do what Old M. is suggesting.
 

rayra

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Had to google "Stanley Roper Shelves" :) I was just going to attach a couple "L" brackets to the wall and put a 4' long 1" x10" on them. Haven't drilled a lot in concrete, but when I have I'd had success with tapcons. Is there something better I should be considering?

You've already expended more effort and analysis than drilling the four holes will take. Just use some good and appropriately-sized masonry bits and get it over with.
 

NUTTSGT

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I would be using tapcons in a heartbeat. If you don't have a hammer drill m, now is the time to buy it.

You can blame the purchase on the wife if need be.
 

slackdaddy1

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Southern MD
I'd avoid drilling clear through especially if wall is below grade. I had a sprinkler system (lawn) installed in my last house that required a 1" hole being drilled through foundation (above grade) for the water supply. Contractor used a standard hammer drill which had no problem drilling hole but he cracked the wall from hole straight down about 9' to the floor. Crack was below grade and was just a hairline crack but was clearly a result of the vibration from drilling into wall. It never spread any further or leaked but suppose it had potential to do so. Just be careful because $hit happens....
As someone who is in the structural concrete field,,, Don't blame the guy who drilled the hole,, Blame the guy who poured the wall.
I am guessing there is little to no steel in it,, and guessing he did not have a pump and "placed" the concrete,, but instead watered it down and "Poured" it.
 

cgrutt

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As someone who is in the structural concrete field,,, Don't blame the guy who drilled the hole,, Blame the guy who poured the wall.
I am guessing there is little to no steel in it,, and guessing he did not have a pump and "placed" the concrete,, but instead watered it down and "Poured" it.
No clue who poured foundation but builder was a large well known company and development was nicer homes. The house was already built before we bought it. It was actually the model home for development so had many "extras". Builder didnt seem to be type to cut corners and the house wasn't cheap. Anyway I didn't blame anyone but it happened when the hole was drilled for the sprinkler. It was a hair line crack that originated at hole and spread right down to the floor. I was there for about 12 years and it never got worse or leaked so never did anything about it.
 

yellowbox

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My wife wants a shelf in the basement. I've always been leary of drilling holes in the concrete walls/foundation. This shelf would only be about 4' long. I'd need at least 2, but probably 4 holes to hang a couple shelf brackets. Am I being unreasonably cautious about drilling holes into my foundation walls?
Yes
 

Beemer

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There are snap ties through the wall at regilar intervals that were used for forming. You can probably seem them or the patches over them. An anchor wouldn't seem to be more intrusive than that.

Also you probably have a sewer/septic pipe as well as a well/water pipe penetrating the wall. Again, little anchors seem minimal compared to those.

I have numerous electrical boxes and electrical conduit straps anchored to my concrete foundation. No issue.

Someone mentioned hitting rebar. There is not much chance there is rebar in the majority of residential foundations. Even if hit it's not likely to be of any consequence. Rebar is high strength steel and any masonry bit that you might have is likely to be destroyed before even making a mark on a rebar.
 

i4ni

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This^.
Just be sure to use the correct size bit, they come with the Tapcons, drill deep enough and clear debris from the hole. Tapcons are hard, read that as brittle so they will break if the hole is not prepared properly. Broken ones will remain until the second coming.
☝️I would add Don't over torque Tapcons either. Better to ease them in the last 1/2". Ask me how I know
 
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