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Drilling out a stuck screw?

ukiltmybrutha

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I tried all of the typical stuff to no avail. I feel like each time I try this over the years it gets harder and harder and I get worse and worse at what should be a simple task. I tried penetrating oil, slotting the screw head, reverse drill bits...nothing ever works anymore.

In this case, I had to access the carpet under my Excursion in the rear and needed to remove a tie down bracket holding the carpet in place. The torx screw bolt broke off and I have been drilling for hours. I would estimate it would take days to drill through this bolt with my M18 Fuel drill. It's nothing big..maybe just an m8 bolt.

Is there a certain drill bit type for this which can make short work of this? My drill bits are just laughing at me even though I started with a punch, then small bit and worked my way upwards in size.

Thanks.
 

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38 Dodge Coupe

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I tried all of the typical stuff to no avail. I feel like each time I try this over the years it gets harder and harder and I get worse and worse at what should be a simple task. I tried penetrating oil, slotting the screw head, reverse drill bits...nothing ever works anymore.

In this case, I had to access the carpet under my Excursion in the rear and needed to remove a tie down bracket holding the carpet in place. The torx screw bolt broke off and I have been drilling for hours. I would estimate it would take days to drill through this bolt with my M18 Fuel drill. It's nothing big..maybe just an m8 bolt.

Is there certain drill bit type for this which can make short work of this? My drill bits are just laughing at me even though I started with a punch, then small bit and worked my way upwards in size.

Thanks.
Here's a long shot question. By chance can you access the bolt from underneath the truck and possibly remove it with vice grips?
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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Here's a long shot question. By chance can you access the bolt from underneath the truck and possibly remove it with vice grips?
I can actually but I am finding myself frustrated because although it is visible I can't quite get my small strip grips on it. Weird angle.
 

larry4406

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Perhaps use a grinding bit and grind the top of the broken bolt at its center to remove some material and ensure your pilot hole is centered.

Perhaps your prior failed attempt at drilling out as proceeding in hardening the bolt.

Then try redrilling with a new fresh bit. Slow speeds for metals and lubricant.
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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Cobalt drill bit with cutting fluid should make quick work of that. What are you using if I may ask?

I am using some Harbor Freight Drill bits. Before you laugh, I purchased these specifically for this purpose after doing lots of research. I forgot what *type* I purchased but these were a Godsend for many years I just don't see them on the website anymore.

When you say Cobalt, is that a type? If so, what brand do you suggest?

Thanks.
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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Perhaps use a grinding bit and grind the top of the broken bolt at its center to remove some material and ensure your pilot hole is centered.

Perhaps your prior failed attempt at drilling out as proceeding in hardening the bolt.

Then try redrilling with a new fresh bit. Slow speeds for metals and lubricant.
Maybe....I tried some dremel stones and they sure seemed a bit more eager until they broke.
 

BrandonV

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I am using some Harbor Freight Drill bits. Before you laugh, I purchased these specifically for this purpose after doing lots of research. I forgot what *type* I purchased but these were a Godsend for many years I just don't see them on the website anymore.

When you say Cobalt, is that a type? If so, what brand do you suggest?

Thanks.

The tip metallurgically will contain cobalt.

Any quality set at a hardware store should suffice. Go slow and use cutting fluid/lubricant.
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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The tip metallurgically will contain cobalt.

Any quality set at a hardware store should suffice. Go slow and use cutting fluid/lubricant.
Thanks! I did some research and found out that that I was using Titanium which seemed to work in the past for something similar....until I snapped an easy out once and needed to drill it out. The person said to use Cobalt. I will go pick up some Cobalt bits. Thank you.

Same person said that I can use a masonry drill bit as as quick hack because they are carbide tipped. Hmmm.
 

BrandonV

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Same person said that I can use a masonry drill bit as as quick hack because they are carbide tipped. Hmmm.

The tips on most masonry drill bits are not really conducive to cutting metal.

Save the frustration. I learned a long time ago good drill bits were the difference between swearing and finishing a job on time.
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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The tips on most masonry drill bits are not really conducive to cutting metal.

Save the frustration. I learned a long time ago good drill bits were the difference between swearing and finishing a job on time.
They have carbide tips though. It cut a bit of metal that no other bit did until it stopped and acted like the rest!
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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A masonry bit will take a little bit off, but the angle cut into the bit is really wrong for attacking steel.

Appreciated. I wish I could find a set on sale. Prices are crazy! Maybe I will just buy the best single bit for this job and then wait for a sale as part of that lesson learned.
 
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rsanter

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If you have a welder you can put a nut on it from below , welding it then use a socket or wrench from below

For drilling hard to drill stuff I like to use solid carbide die grinder bits. That and some oil to keep it cool and they go through it like butter
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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If you have a welder you can put a nut on it from below , welding it then use a socket or wrench from below

For drilling hard to drill stuff I like to use solid carbide die grinder bits. That and some oil to keep it cool and they go through it like butter

Not enough space for vice grips so getting a nut on there would be much harder.
 
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paulsomlo

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Cobalt drill bit with cutting fluid should make quick work of that. What are you using if I may ask?
Or solid carbide - but you won't find it at Ace or HD. And if the head twisted off, I don't know if I would risk easy outs - snap one of those off and you've got bigger problems. I think you're going to have to go with successive drill bits until the fastener collapses.
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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Boogerman

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First off, use a grinding tip or similar to get a pilot mark actually centered correctly on the bolt. Your photo shows your current effort way the hell off to the outside.

The Bosch bits you reference should be good enough to drill out a fastener of this type.

Don't drill a small pilot hole except maybe for a fraction of an inch as a centering aid, use with a bit near the bolt thread minor diameter size. Cobolt bit, and since this is a through bolt, right hand so it will spin out the bottom once you get part of the threads removed. Slow speed as said before, and cutting oil (not motor oil, CUTTING oil). Keep a constant pressure on the bit, to avoid work hardening the surface. If it stops cutting and just rubs, that can harden the surface and make it very difficult to start it cutting again.

You say titanium bit, I'd guess TIN (titanium nitride coated). Those are coated to reduce friction on deep holes, they aren't necessarily hard or tough steel, it's just a coating. A lot of the cheap places used TIN as a cheap gimmick to make buyers think they were getting a premium product. TIN had been used in industry to reduce heat, increase tool life, and increase cutting speeds with coolant on automated machines, so people associated it with a commercial, premium product. Chinese and Taiwan manufacturers soon realized (or were told by US purchasing agents) that a cheap TIN coating made their product sell for higher prices, so it became ubiquitous on low quality tooling. I purposely AVOID TIN coated tooling unless it comes from a major European or US manufacturer. The one advantage to a non-industrial user of TIN coated tooling is it takes slightly less power to drive it due to reduced friction, so it increase cordless battery life.
 

Rusty Wrench

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I don't recall the exact circumstance but couple years ago had the same issue. Might have been a suspension component. As a last resort I tried a diamond bit for stone and tile from Home Depot.
I do recall being astonished how well it worked. You will likely lose the threads though.
 

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dogdog

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If you are drilling it out and haven’t broke any bits inside the bolt yet… first thing is try to get low speed high torque drill to do this task not the Milwaukee and gun it max.

Hf have one for $50 or homedepot have one for $170 ridgid mud mixer is what o have used to drill out that be Jetta bolt or stuck civic distributor bolt… or those pesky broken exhaust down pipe bolts on the vw.

Bit wise they are just nitrate coated that came in box of 108 sets nothing special. I did use a starter bit to get the center simple.

*** the key is to control your speed
** and the right amount of pressure
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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If you are drilling it out and haven’t broke any bits inside the bolt yet… first thing is try to get low speed high torque drill to do this task not the Milwaukee and gun it max.

Hf have one for $50 or homedepot have one for $170 ridgid mud mixer is what o have used to drill out that be Jetta bolt or stuck civic distributor bolt… or those pesky broken exhaust down pipe bolts on the vw.

Bit wise they are just nitrate coated that came in box of 108 sets nothing special. I did use a starter bit to get the center simple.

*** the key is to control your speed
** and the right amount of pressure
How do I know I don't have such a drill already? I have a dewalt corded drill but not sure what to look for. Seriously, don't even bother trying with my Milwaukee cordless and just slow down a little?
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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left handed drill bits, penetrating oil, heat pressure and vibration are going to be your friends
Yep, have tried penetrating oil, left hand bits (not in the manner mentioned by Boogerman yet though). Heat...I always end up causing fires lately so I am a bit scared TBH.

Vibration part. Can you expand please?
 

Boogerman

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Using left hand bit to try to screw the rusted beat up end of the bolt back through the hole will be counter productive. Better to just drill with a standard bit, the bolt should thread OUT through the hole with the bit spinning clockwise. Left hand are good for bolts that have broken off in blind holes. On bolts that are broken off flush in an open/through hole, it's best to continue to screw the relatively clean end through the rest of the way, and a right hand bit will be twisting that direction, and should thread it out once you get rid of most of the bolt and the threads relax into the drilled hole.

Vibration is hitting the bolt repeatedly with something (impact chisel is one way) to break the rust, if any, that is in the threads.
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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Using left hand bit to try to screw the rusted beat up end of the bolt back through the hole will be counter productive. Better to just drill with a standard bit, the bolt should thread OUT through the hole with the bit spinning clockwise. Left hand are good for bolts that have broken off in blind holes. On bolts that are broken off flush in an open/through hole, it's best to continue to screw the relatively clean end through the rest of the way, and a right hand bit will be twisting that direction, and should thread it out once you get rid of most of the bolt and the threads relax into the drilled hole.

Vibration is hitting the bolt repeatedly with something (impact chisel is one way) to break the rust, if any, that is in the threads.
Thanks for that
 

dogdog

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How do I know I don't have such a drill already? I have a dewalt corded drill but not sure what to look for. Seriously, don't even bother trying with my Milwaukee cordless and just slow down a little?
Dependents on which dewalt one you have. It’s not so much about the brand, it’s how you used your tools… it’s about the speed and torque. If you think you can slow down your Milwaukee then go for it give it a try. Needs to go about 300-500 rpm and firm pressure
 
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ukiltmybrutha

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Dependents on which dewalt one you have. It’s not so much about the brand… it’s about the speed and torque. If you think you can slow down your Milwaukee then go for it give it a try. Needs to go about 300 rpm and heavy pressure
Thanks. I will go ahead and check out the specs while am at it.
 
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