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Drilling Stainless - Where did I go wrong

magic_garage

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Aug 3, 2009
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HAWAII
Hi all,

I had to drill 4 holes into 304 or 316 stainless steel plate for #10 screws. I'm not exactly sure on the thickness but I'd say 1/8" or a hair bigger. I'm not in any trade so my skills are limited.

I did research on drilling into SS and thought I was ready for the challenge. I bought 2 cobalt bit sets. 1) Cheap, good review set (M35), and 2) Bosch C014B set (M42) both from amazon. I also bought cutting paste. I used an early model Milwaukee M18 Fuel drill with the keyless chuck, drill/driver mode only, realy clunky compared to today's drills.

I had the plate on a cart so I had a good working height to work from and could put good downward pressure.

First mistake was I forgot to bring something to punch/dimple the plate so I used a dewalt gold 1/16" bit to make my dimple/starter hole. That went easeir than I expected so that gave me high hopes for this. I originally wanted to use self-drilling screws so I got 410 SS Torx head to use. I then tried to use the screw but the screw kept bobbling so I couldn't put enough downward pressure for the screw to drill. My target hole size was 9/64" so for testing/learning purposes, I grabbed another dewalt gold bit 7/64" or 1/8" (i forget) to try and step up the hole but that went nowhere. I made sure the paste was on there and I had my drill at #1 and no more than half trigger. I kept stopping to make sure things didn't get too hot. After that, I grabbed the 1/8" cheaper set cobalt bit and that went pretty easy. I then grabbed the 9/64" cheaper set bit and this is where it failed. Again, I made sure to have paste on, and speed at half trigger and lots of stopping, but I ended up going only mabe 2/3 of the way after a whole lots of stopping and trying. I was being very persistent with trying to drill the hole with this bit. I finally grab the bosch bit and it went thru like a breeze.

So where did I go wrong? Was the bit from the cheaper set that junk? I'm a little skeptical on that part. And what about the self-drilling screw? I read so many people saying it's fine to use those screws but I couldn't get it steady. Was it because of the torx head? Would phillips been better? I couldn't get what I wanted in hex head. Do I need to step the hole for such a small target hole size? The downward pressure part is little hard to determine based on what people are suggesting but I was afraid of putting "a lot" of pressure because of the smaller size bits I'm working with.

Please help.


Thanks!
 
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Beerhippie

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Drilling stainless--especially food-grade 3XX--takes a very slow bit and LOTS of pressure. Anything else work-hardens it instantly. I generally use thinned Anchor Lube for a cutting fluid, but kerosene and WD40 also work well.

A step bit works better on SS sheet metal than a twist drill, and carbide should not be needed.

What kind of backing did you have? Dampened wood is best as it will dissipate some of the heat of drilling. The worst I've encountered was drywall while installing SS backsplashes in a kitchen. That made it almost impossible to drill and I eventually had to shoot the holes with a plasma cutter.

Once the SS is work-hardened, not much of anything will cut through it short of a plasma. Best practice is a very slow--like 150-300 rpm--drill press, and lean on it.
 

RTM

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I’m gonna guess the answer is the steps were too small, especially in the second case; 1/8” to 9/64” is trivial, and I think you need to be taking a bigger bite for the drill to work well.
 

Dave455

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Mar 19, 2013
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Sussex, England
Hi,

Couple of things.

First off, stainless can be quite a tricky material to drill, so you need good quality bits. Undoubtedly, the cheaper set you had were not up to the job. They may say “Cobalt” on them, but not all cobalt is equal!

I would probably have my doubts about the Bosch too. Although they make good power tools, the majority of their drill bits are made in China, and they are not in the same league as a drill bit from a metalworking supplier.

Secondly, the type of drill bits. If you get one from a specialist it will be a “quick helix” drill for stainless. You may not think it makes a difference, but the helix pitch alters the angle of the cutting edge, and that’s critical.

Thirdly, the downforce. However firmly you hold it, a hand held drill is not the right tool. Even the wrong drill bit, used in a drill press that’s totally rigid, and has decent downforce, will work.

I realise it’s not always possible to put the work in a drill press, but sometimes it’s nearly impossible without. If you don’t have a drill press, can you take the work to someone who has?

Everything else sounds good though.
 

nafets47

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Jul 24, 2026
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You should center punch it, use the correct size drill bit, drill slow with a lot of pressure, and use cutting oil.

By reading what you did it looks like you just made the spot you were drilling more difficult for yourself by using another bit which probably made the metal even harder in that spot (done that myself a few times). At which point it is a pain in the *** and a bit of time to correct the mistake.

When drilling you should see a consistent fluted spiral coming out of your drill bit while you drill.
 
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cannuck

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Many people confuse drills with reamers by trying to "step up" a bit at a time. For small holes: one shot only and for large holes a pilot just bigger than the web formed by the root of the flutes. As others have pointed out, low speed and high feed pressure. The secret with ANY cutting operation is to keep the cutting edge cutting as when it skids over the material without cutting it very rapdily gets super hot - annealing the drill bit and potentially hardening the material you are trying to cut. And of all the materials where this matters Ni and/or Mn alloys are the worst.
 
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CGarage

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1) Center punch it
2) Low speed, high feed
3) Need coolant for the drill bit, if only a few holes WD40 or tap magic, if more than a few, synthetic spray oil from Royal Purple or Amsoil…..there are more exotic coolants / lubricants used for this in aerospace, but I take it you are a hobbyist
4) Use professional drill bits, but Bosch makes some of the better “off the shelf” general drill bits and should be fine for a few holes.
5) Both stainless steel and titanium are worked similarly and not a lot of fun
 

Rinspeed

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I've drilled thousands of holes in SS and you really need good bits. As mentioned slow, slow and slow because heat is your enemy. A Starrett snap punch is a wonderful thing if you have many holes to punch and almost a necessity for really hitting your mark.
 

Steve_P

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Slow is nonsense. If you try to drill a 1/4" hole in 304 SST at 80 RPM you will get nowhere. But try.

You need good bits. Stainless is not hard but work hardens during drilling.
 
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magic_garage

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Slow is nonsense. If you try to drill a 1/4" hole in 304 SST at 80 RPM you will get nowhere. But try.

You need good bits. Stainless is not hard but work hardens during drilling.

I think this is the first I'm hearing slow is not necessary, outside of this thread. To give me a better idea, assuming a typical 18V cordless drill, you're saying #2 at full trigger is ok in terms of drilling speed?

Actually, this is what I see people typically do and they have grave difficulty.

Thanks for your response.
 
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magic_garage

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HAWAII
Thanks for everyone who chimed in. I'm still not clear on a few things.

Regarding the self-drilling screw attempt. No one responded to that. Do you guys not even bother with self-drilling screws when it comes to drilling into SS?

You all mention (except 1) slow but my drilling at #1 setting, no more than half or so trigger is not slow enough?

Aside from the bit quality, I think the "feed"/pressure part is the part I need the biggest improvement. To understand in better detail, do I start off with lots of pressure or do I let the bit spin then increase to a maximum pressure point?


Thanks again!!
 
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