Drilling through Joists with only 5" clearance

[rossn]

Tricky situation on my remodel...

Have to drill through a number of joists that are closely spaced... sometimes only 5-1/4" space available. Original joists are 60 year old 2x8's and the intermediate joists are 15 year old 2x6 LVL, sometimes doubled up!

Holes would be 7/8" to 1-1/8". Maybe an occasional 1-3/8", though I'm trying to avoid that.

I need some ideas on drilling somewhat efficiently in such close quarters.

I have a 1/2" milwaukee right angle drill, and without a bit it doesn't even fit.

I have the makita 18v and milwaukee 12v systems, but don't think those right angle drills will have enough torque (makita = 121 in-lb).

Other considerations were a right angle impact (XLT01Z) with a self-feed space bit (if I can find one short enough) or the makita DA3010F right angle drill, though at 4A, it may not cut it.

Welcome all ideas....

 

[03.]

Not sure if this will be of any help as I am on the other side of the world, but does Makita make the DA4000LR in the USA? This thing has a lot of grunt considering what it is and even the spec sheet has it at 1 1/2" through timber.

 

[66Caprice]

Dewalt makes a right angle attachment for their impact guns and drills. It's only about an inch and a half wide. I can't post pics as I am at work. But it could work.

 

[Justind97]

Looks to me like some/all your holes are going to be on an angle.

Get a long bit extension and decrease the angle as much as possible by getting up close to the joist. The extension will allow the drill to clear the joists and then you have some wiggle room.. ish

 

[joe_padavano]

Southwire Tools flex shaft drill bits.

I had this same problem trying to run wires through the logs of a 300 year old log house. These drill bits have a 4ft long flex shaft attached to a self-feeding auger bit. The drill motor can be anywhere. They also sell special holding tools to help you bend and position the flex shaft to clear obstructions. There are several sizes available. Lowes sells them.

http://www.southwiretools.com/tools/tools/FAB3-4X54

 

[Jackfre]

You may have to use a keyhole saw for the first hole. Once you get the first hole you can step along with extensions and speed-bore or hole saws. Those flex shafts are pretty cool. My electrician did a nice job with them in our re-model.

 

[Git]

In reality, the 'flex shaft drill bits' are not as easy as it looks in that diagram

For one thing, if your working with a long flex bit, it really takes two people. One to operate the drill and the other to place the drill bit where you want it. There is another tool you will probably need to use it:

 

[Bert_]

What are you running through the holes?

I usually just use a long bit or an extension and drill the holes near the bottom of the joist. If you're running wiring or water lines you want them towards the bottom anyway so there's room for HVAC.

 

[ez-duzit]

...I usually just...drill the holes near the bottom of the joist...

Extremely bad advice!

Keep the holes near the center of the joist. You must leave the edges alone as it is the extreme fibers that take all the load.

 

[engineer2]

right angle impact driver adapter + stubby self-feeding wood auger bit.

 

[fsae0607]

Extremely bad advice!

Keep the holes near the center of the joist. You must leave the edges alone as it is the extreme fibers that take all the load.

Yes, joists are loaded in a beam condition. The bottom fibers are in tension. A hole near the bottom weakens it.

 

[Bert_]

Extremely bad advice!

Keep the holes near the center of the joist. You must leave the edges alone as it is the extreme fibers that take all the load.

Multiple sources say 2" from the bottom is acceptable.

I see no reason to put the holes in center, unless you don't like the HVAC guys

 

[The Cobbler]

different lengths extensions could work too. get a hole drilled where you can get in and add extensions to do the next hole(s)
royal PITA but it can be done . 2 people would be a help to line up the bit too
I was always going to make an adjustable extension for this purpose but never have got around to it.

 

[pattenp]

I've used a multitool to get holes in framing members where space was tight. My multitool with the blade set a 90deg fits in a 4.5" space. Provided you don't mind square holes.

 

[Robby321]

Right angle stubby something and a hole saw?

 

[tthornto]

Right angle drill and a Forstner bit.

 

[Lynden]

Makita = 2-5/8" + bit length

https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/DA3010F

 

[Dustball]

Right angle adapter from Home Depot for $20.

Short hex shank drill bit in that adapter to drill the first joist- hole only needs to be big enough to fit the shank of the actual drill bit for the hole size you need.

Drill the the first joist, use that hole to stick the drill bit shank of the larger bit through and use a Hole Hawg (with a drill bit extension if necessary) or similar to drill the next joist over through the first joist. Keep working your way down working through the adjacent joist to drill the next joist.

 

[yatg]

Those quarter inch hex right angle adapters aren't designed for a lot of torque. And you need two hands to use them, one on the drill, one on the adapter. I had a Rockwell that stripped out with just light use on screws. Maybe the DeWalt is better.

 

[engineer2]

Those quarter inch hex right angle adapters aren't designed for a lot of torque.

You have to get one that is marked as being OK to use with an impact driver. I haven't broken mine yet.

 

[Dustball]

Those quarter inch hex right angle adapters aren't designed for a lot of torque. And you need two hands to use them, one on the drill, one on the adapter. I had a Rockwell that stripped out with just light use on screws. Maybe the DeWalt is better.

He only needs it to drill the first hole which is going to be smaller than the rest of the holes. the Dewalt one is impact rated and I've been using it to drive 3" deck screws.

 

[yatg]

the Dewalt one is impact rated and I've been using it to drive 3" deck screws.

Then that would be worth buying. Things have improved in the last few years since the 1/4" battery impact is pretty common now.

 

[Robby321]

I've used a multitool to get holes in framing members where space was tight. My multitool with the blade set a 90deg fits in a 4.5" space. Provided you don't mind square holes.

Square hole would add 4 stress points for cracking in a joist. Round hole spread out equal...

 

[KenC]

Multiple sources say 2" from the bottom is acceptable.

I see no reason to put the holes in center, unless you don't like the HVAC guys

Holes are to be placed in the middle third of joists. So, on a 2x6 two inches from top or bottom is fine. But, that is from the edge of the hole, not center. Don't remember the % of joist width is the max hole size, but that doesn't matter in this case.

 

[Trapps]

Pick one joist in the middle to 'sacrifice' and cut a hole through it (large forstner?). Then put the drill on one side and insert the bit from the other side through the hole/notch you made. Now repeat the process for each joist. After the first cut you should be able to align the holes where you want. Slow and tedious, but effective. When done, go back to the first joist you cut and sister in a 2' section to restore integrity.

Perhaps not ideal but could work...

 

[speed bump]

Get the first hole at angle from both sides. Feed in a spade bit from one side of the drilled joist to the drill on the other side and drill next joist. Feed in an auger bit, connect to drill and get the next stud. Add an extension and hit the next one. Repeat as necessary.

As long as you don't get stupid removing material the holes don't need to be pretty. If you think they do, I would suggest not looking at what the average plumber or electrician would do to put the holes in.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

Right angle drill and a Forstner bit.

This seems about right. You can actually change direction as you drill with a Forstner bit. Could possibly also do that with a hole saw.
What about a Mutimaster? Could you cut a window in the first beam with that?