drilling through this s-binder so dam hard

[dogdog]

any good recommendation?

Not sure what material this thing is made out of.... it is magnetic but been trying to dill a small hole at the bottom this S-binder for almost 30 minutes spinning (drill press spinning at the lowest speed), hardly a ding.... BTW it dulled two punches (craftman made in the USA ones and the HF automatic punch).... WTH... clip says stainless... but not sure. Pic is black, the one I got is silver from HF, same brand.

Tried the Nitrate coated 135 deg split points bits that usually goes through most other metal fine.... supposedly HSS.

 

[Musicinabottle]

Have you tried an ARTU bit or an abrasive bit? The Artu bits will drill through cast iron. I drilled lengthways through a roll pin and the bit was still sharp. ARTU!

 

[VR6ix]

Drill bits need to be harder than the material you are drilling. Try cobalt and if that doesn't work then move to solid carbide but that's probably overkill, the cobalt bits should work fine.

 

[texasranger]

Try a masonry bit, but sharpen it first. They come flat for masonry drilling. I've used them to drill York rake tines in the past which are spring steel and hard as hell. Lots of oil, nice and slow. They actually last fairly well until you chip the carbide inserts.

 

[Divcod]

any good recommendation?

Not sure what material this thing is made out of.... it is magnetic but been trying to dill a small hole at the bottom this S-binder for almost 30 minutes spinning (drill press spinning at the lowest speed), hardly a ding.... BTW it dulled two punches (craftman made in the USA ones and the HF automatic punch).... WTH... clip says stainless... but not sure. Pic is black, the one I got is silver from HF, same brand.

Tried the Nitrate coated 135 deg split points bits that usually goes through most other metal fine.... supposedly HSS.

S-Binders say there are made with SS. Any speed when drilling will harden the material and take out the bit. Use a sharp bit, slow speed and lots of lube.

 

[dogdog]

S-Binders say there are made with SS. Any speed when drilling will harden the material and take out the bit. Use a sharp bit, slow speed and lots of lube.

Yep I thought I did that.... grant that it have to be a small bit about 1/16" but it was a brand new bit.... it seems to just glide on the surface for a while, I put cutting fluid no over heating... that is why I found it weird.

 

[Musicinabottle]

Try a masonry bit, but sharpen it first. They come flat for masonry drilling. I've used them to drill York rake tines in the past which are spring steel and hard as hell. Lots of oil, nice and slow. They actually last fairly well until you chip the carbide inserts.

That's what the ARTU bits are essentially, but they're already sharp.....ARTU!!!

 

[Strouty]

Did you try the fastest speed? Smaller bits generally like faster speed. I have some special bits that drill through anything, but the only way for them to work is to drill at 2500 RPM's otherwise you just ruin the bit and end up with no hole.

 

[Musicinabottle]

The ARTU bits actually call for higher speeds. I want to say something on the order of 3,000 rpms. Best damn bits I've ever seen outside the industrial bits. ARTU.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoR4lVp_zxE

 

[ilovevocs]

Use a sharp bit, slow speed and lots of lube.

That's what she said....

 

[Stobal]

That's what she said....

Lol. Someone needed to say it.

 

[texasranger]

That's what the ARTU bits are essentially, but they're already sharp.....ARTU!!!

I had to look them up, interesting.

 

[manwithtools]

Bit speeds are dependent on bit diameter, smaller needs to go faster. You need to know what the material is and what surface feet per minute is recommended by the bit manufacturer for that material.

BTW, ARTU is not the right bit for stainless - from their web site:

"Please be advised that ARTU Multi-Purpose Drill Bits are not recommended to be used on mild steel, i.e., angle iron, galvanized pipe, copper, aluminum, brass, stainless steel, etc. Instead use ARTU’s HSS or Cobalt Drill Bits."

 

[manwithtools]

The ARTU bits actually call for higher speeds. I want to say something on the order of 3,000 rpms. Best damn bits I've ever seen outside the industrial bits. ARTU.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoR4lVp_zxE

Do you work for ARTU or just own their stock?

 

[dogdog]

I couldn't find the artu bits at least from the light search.... but got the Dewalt industrial carbide 3/64 (2mm) bit instead yesterday... will report back... and try high RPM first.

 

[manwithtools]

Stainless likes about 50 SFPM, with a 3/64 HSS bit, correct speed would be about 4000 rpm. Not sure about your "DeWalt industrial carbide", and not sure why you need it if this is just stainless steel. If you can use a larger bit, I would. With stainless, it's important to keep constant feed pressure and keep it well lubricated.

 

[dogdog]

this one I got, from Lowes, thx for the speed info , I'll try with that first on regular bit and see if speed was the problem.... I was drilling on slow about 700 RPM-ish it's not going any where just gliding on the surface... and found it weird. besides that this thing as mentioned dulled 2 center punches...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015J5HN2S/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[manwithtools]

Ah, that's "cobalt", not carbide. It should work fine, I'd give it a go at a higher speed and see how it does.

 

[Marctrees]

Dogdog - Just curious why you need to drill this, and it's OK to weaken it for your end use?

Marc

 

[matt_i]

I disagree with using a higher speed for stainless steel. The material will work-harden very fast because its a very poor conductor of heat (you'll note that it tig welds like butter subsequently because the heat cannot escape the area where the arc is landing). Once its work hardened you won't drill it with something short of an Omega die drill (see McMaster Carr...solid carbide bit to be used in a rigid-vise-clamped setup with all table-ways locked up in a milling machine).

I would attempt to try to drill it from the other side, HSS drill, use cutting lube like Cool Tool or Tap Magic (etc). I would use around 250-300 rpms, no more than 500. Use good feed meaning medium-heavy feed pressure. If chips are not visibly forming then stop immediately.

 

[dogdog]

Dogdog - Just curious why you need to drill this, and it's OK to weaken it for your end use?

Marc

drill a small hole clip a small ring weld it on with 309L so it won't kept missing from my key. It's my car key ring I fling around :O)

 

[joe49]

More feed less speed and flood with water so piece can not heat up. A carbide burr instead of a bit in your drill if you have all ready F'd up and work hardened it.

 

[dogdog]

Little clip 1, drill bits 0.... neither the HSS bit or that Dewalt industrial colbalt bit did anything to it.... at most a little dent now. dam. The Dewalt 5/64 bit (DWA1205) snapped also at high speed. Oh well the fun of experiments. I can test file the clip with a file, and it cuts it so shouldn't be work harden..... Dunno, going to try anneal it and see... what is a good method procedure?

 

[manwithtools]

If you drilled in the same spot as before, it may be work hardened. If your test with the file is not in the center of the hole you are trying to drill, then it's not telling you much about work hardening. I doubt there is a sound reason to anneal what you have.

Send it to me, I'll send it back with a hole in it - only a small service charge will apply.

 

[dogdog]

thx for the offer, I wouldn't be on this board if I am not looking to DIY.,.... drilling through is not important, learning something from it is.... so far the USA HSS bit failed, the Dewalt industrial cobalt broke in 1/2, just got the Milwaukee colbalt, going to give it a try on the other end..... but just to note, before drilling this surface I was drilling, it dented /dulled my center punch as well (its a USA Craftman 9 42841 WF) I think that is a western forge....

 

[ovrrdrive]

I've had good luck with the irwin cobalt bits from amazon. last time I had to drill a hole in crs I bought a pack of 5 bits in the size I needed thinking I was going to use all of them but one did the trick for me. they are brittle though, just try to not bind them up when you're drilling an use a good cutting fluid.

 

[Strouty]

You sure this thing isn't made out of kryptonite?

 

[Brian_WK]

You sure this thing isn't made out of kryptonite?

Kryptonite just kills Superman. You're thinking of Adamantium what Wolverines claws and skeleton are made of.

Brian

 

[Strouty]

I guess I should have said, drill bit kryptonite, but your idea works as well.

 

[CoyoteKyle]

When in doubt use a Norseman 190-AG. Cobalt only works better in free machining stainless. Hi-Moly bits are better in work hardening stainless. Dewalt, and Irwin bits are ****!

 

[LX-Markham]

this seems like a lot of work for a key-ring.


....carry on.

 

[Virgil Tech]

Have any of your now collection of dull drills penetrated the black coating yet?

I'm thinking the manufacturer might have used a highly abrasion resistant coating.

 

[dogdog]

not sure about the black one, mine is silver stainless look alike but it is magnetic... will upload the pic when I get a chance.... I got it from everyone's favorite place... either HF or Lowes. have not try with the Milwaukee one yet.....

 

[dogdog]

You sure this thing isn't made out of kryptonite?

zLOL I dunno , I am not superman.... nor dating supergirl.

 

[va.grouseman]

Dogdog, I ran into a similar hardness on an item last year.---I bought a 13'', 3 leg wheel puller and it had two sets of holes but plenty of space for a third set which would extend it's reach by 2 inches.---So being determined to get that third set of holes, I measured and punched three center holes with a punch I made from a screwdriver and it dulled it just like yours.---I should have taken the hint but I'm stubborn that way.---Once started, I proceeded with 1/8th inch 42% cobalt bits thinking I would be done here in a half an hour.---They barely made a little pocket and the bits were new.---I'm thinking, what do we have here.---I tried high speed Vermont bits, Vermont cobalt, Dewalt cobalt, Black & Decker Cobalt, and none would do anything but ride the surface.---My last resort was to use small carbide burrs, which started melting through the steel.---First the ball shaped burr, then the cone shaped burr to enlarge the hole to the pivot bolt size.---Finally did some fine tuned filing with a diamond incrusted core bit.---Hardest steel I've ever fooled with.---Stainless is a cake walk compared to that wheel puller.

Oh, two things, carbide burrs do like speed, and if you use them, use gloves, those things throw these little steel briers out all over your vise and work area that are as sharp as razors and so small you have to get a magnifying glass just see them in your skin.---Some you can scrape out with a sharp pocket knife.---Don't handle your work piece or vise until you have given it a good brushing down and sweeping up.---Actually better to do it in an outside vise.---But it will work.---Just use them like a drill bit.

 

[racingtadpole]

A small punch die and judicious application of ridiculous amounts of hydraulic force should do the trick..

 

[Musicinabottle]

Do you work for ARTU or just own their stock?

Neither. It's just that ARTU rocks! ARTU!

 

[ovrrdrive]

It's starting to sound like just blipping it with a plasma cutter might be the best route. Blow out a nice small hole then over drill it to clean it up. Plasma doesn't discriminate.

 

[1953mercury]

EDM would do it, no problem. Mike

 

[manwithtools]

Does it look like any of these?

https://smile.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-S-Biner-Carabiners-Stainless/dp/B001HN6CWO/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HPEG4XZWDPSP1R0KX8TK

I'm going to order some just to see if they really are harder than woodpecker lips. Let me know it these are the same as yours and I'll report back on my success - or lack there of.