drilling through this s-binder so dam hard
- Thread starter dogdog
- Start date
ishiboo
Well-known member
Is it possible/likely that there is some sort of anomaly in the stainless at that particular location? It doesn't seem like they would have hardened stainless to that extent for a cheap keychain, no?
Spencer Was Here
Well-known member
I don't think it has been mentioned, so if it has, i apologize. In my opinion, your problem started before you started drilling.
The act of using a center punch is what likely work hardened the material. Try drilling on the other end of the S-Biner that hasn't been punched, and see if you have better results.
The act of using a center punch is what likely work hardened the material. Try drilling on the other end of the S-Biner that hasn't been punched, and see if you have better results.
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Strouty
Well-known member
Are we being trolled?
MBeaty
Well-known member
I shot an s biner today with our material analyzer. It registered as 410 stainless steel, which is a martensitic grain structure stainless steel. This type of stainless can be hardened by quenching, unlike the 3xx series of austenitic stainless steels. I checked it with an impact harness tester and measured around 460 brinell, which is almost in as quenched form, with minimal tempering. Based off all this, it is quite believable that it is giving you some trouble to drill through.
Thanks for confirming that I am not delusional, wow, nice to have good toys.
matt_i
Well-known member
I don't think a drill bit is going to touch it. I'd recommend the omega die drill thats in McMaster Carr but you need a really rigid setup like a milling machine to use it.
I think I'd try something different, piece of copper or brass rod the same size as you want to hole, put a dab of clover lapping compound on it and then burnish it with the rod. The abrasive should embed into the soft material and make a lap that will wear out the harder material. Its going to be very slow, I'd use a drill press and attach a weight to one of the handles, not silly pressure but medium-firm, come back and check it every once in awhile and recharge the lap.
I think it would work better if the rod could be center drilled or you could find a piece of tubing the correct size, so its acting as more of a trepan tool than trying to wear out the complete diameter. But, if you can't find the tube you'd have to drill the solid rod in a lathe, now into more tools than you might have...
I think I'd try something different, piece of copper or brass rod the same size as you want to hole, put a dab of clover lapping compound on it and then burnish it with the rod. The abrasive should embed into the soft material and make a lap that will wear out the harder material. Its going to be very slow, I'd use a drill press and attach a weight to one of the handles, not silly pressure but medium-firm, come back and check it every once in awhile and recharge the lap.
I think it would work better if the rod could be center drilled or you could find a piece of tubing the correct size, so its acting as more of a trepan tool than trying to wear out the complete diameter. But, if you can't find the tube you'd have to drill the solid rod in a lathe, now into more tools than you might have...
because its been a slow morning at work:
http://imgur.com/yK95JV7
1/16" no name black oxide bit, hand drilled, no oil. Went right through.
http://imgur.com/yK95JV7
1/16" no name black oxide bit, hand drilled, no oil. Went right through.
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HHAHAHHAGAAHAFAH. Thank you for confirming!
(clever ploy to make us all go out and buy one of this crappy biners?)
lolz,,,, yours looks different....did you annealed it with heated or something... doesn't look right.
Pic 2 shows that it dented the center punch on mine....
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LOL would be a wasted good marketing ploy to con you for a 5 cent commission.
dogdog im afraid you might have a battle of diluted products and the S-biner is winning.
Tell me, what brand is that punch?
Cheap bits, cheap punch, poor technique, and a slightly harder material I believe is making this a 3 page discussion.
But I am throughly enjoying it. And I really do want you to succeed.
Tell me, what brand is that punch?
Cheap bits, cheap punch, poor technique, and a slightly harder material I believe is making this a 3 page discussion.
But I am throughly enjoying it. And I really do want you to succeed.
Do yourself a favor, and stop buying bits at Lowe's or Home Depot. Nothing you can get there is going to be quality enough to deal with anything other than aluminum, soft steels, or wood.
Cheapo bits plus hard materials are not a recipe for success.
Cheapo bits plus hard materials are not a recipe for success.
Musicinabottle
Banned
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- Jul 24, 2016
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- 3,371
That's why you just need to buy an ARTU bit and end this thing in victory!
No heating, nothing. Did another hole:
Center punched (starrett automatic punch), same Chineseium black oxide bit, hand drilled no oil. Went right through. The niteize logo wont photograph well but I assure that what it is. They aren't taking the time to factory harden these things... Try the other side but at a low speed and with a good amount of down force on the bit (I chuck the bit so there's only about 1/4" sticking out to avoid breaking it off). Good luck?
http://imgur.com/G32zEIx
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Dude... we get it.
This is crucial for stainless steel.
When you're drilling work hardening materials, you need high feed- you're basically trying feed fast enough that the chip you're taking is thicker than the depth of the layer of material which has already work hardened.
It's an older craftsman center punch..... 9-42841 WF (probably Western Forge)
also tried a HF automatic punch....(the $1.99) ones
but yea I didn't chuck the bit down to the last 1/4" only down to shank as close to the cutting fluke as possible. probably that is why it broke.....
(was told never to chuck a bit down to the cutting flukes in my younger days).
I applied pressure as much as possible before the bit started to bend a little. maybe chucking it down a little more would do the trick.
I do have a set of blackoxide bits I can try.... as soon as I get to it....
Attachments
still can't do it (still lost my man card WTF).... freaking bit just glides on the surface.... with or without lubes... tried a HSS #2 starter bit... rounded the tip after a while pressing hard and spinning.... on 1/2 horse power JET 14" drill press 470 RPM pulley setting, drilling on the other side of the ring (new surface).
Just wrap a split ring around it and walk away.....
You can get 1/8" shank carbide PCB drills pretty cheap on Amazon or eBay. That should punch through that pretty quickly, if you've got a drill press press with low run-out.
If need be you could spot-drill with an 1/8" carbide spotting drill from Maritool.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
If need be you could spot-drill with an 1/8" carbide spotting drill from Maritool.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
ClappedOutBport
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2016
- Messages
- 998
I needed to drill through a power hacksaw blade that was too long the other day. My dad started with a solid carbide drill running slow (I told him not to go slow, but alas) and snapped it when it caught. I took a dull masonry bit (too lazy to sharpen it) cranked the RPMS up to 1000, and fed with heavy pressure. Once it got the area red hot, it plowed on through. 
Might not be what you want for your clip though. I'd still use masonry bits for jobs like that, but sharpen them first.
Might not be what you want for your clip though. I'd still use masonry bits for jobs like that, but sharpen them first.