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Drip edge

pudgybear

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
228
Location
Brooklyn Michigan
after examing the roof edge i discovered that there was no drip edge ever put on, my question is can the drip edge be slid under the shingles and then nailed in place by putting the nails in the bottom edge against the top of the wall instead of on the top where they should be?
 
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volleyball

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
4,127
Location
NY, not NYC
Why not nail on top?
You may need a custom drip edge. Something larger than normal. a pro supplier will have different stock sizes.
Do you have a current problem?
 

GSEninja

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
95
I just did this to a 12' section on my back patio the other day. PO had an awning on the house, removed it and then never reinstalled the drip edge

at only 12' I was able to pry up the edge of the shingles, slip it under and re nail everything down.. used some DAP 18268 to seal the edge and nails holes... all good

now if im wrong im sure someone will chime in
 

Chris705

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Joined
Nov 1, 2012
Messages
834
Location
The Finger Lakes of NY
If you feel you really need to add the drip edge you maybe able to use a wide putty knife to "release" the asphalt by gently prying up on the area just above the next upper course of shingle. A typical shingle uses a line or dabs of asphalt sealant to hold down the next row of tabs on the shingle above. At the bottom edge there is sometime a starter strip nailed down or a normal shingle with the tabs are cut off so the asphalt line is now right at the bottom edge so the first full row of tabs will be held down with this asphalt. That is what you want to loosen so you can "carefully" bend the shingles up so you can get the drip installed and nailed down. Do this on a sunny day when the roof deck gets warm and you will be better off and not break any cold shingles. Once you do that you can slip your drip edge in get a few nails into it and drop the shingle back down on the drip. You may want to purchase a tube of asphalt cement for your caulk gun and add a small bead under each tab to help hold them down. As long as your current shingles actually over hang the fascia board I am not sure that one really needs metal drip edge unless for cosmetic reasons.
 
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kbs2244

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Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
Do the work early in the morning.
The "glue" tabs will snap open easier.
Be careful not to bend the shingles too much though.
They will be stiff.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Do the work early in the morning.
The "glue" tabs will snap open easier.
Be careful not to bend the shingles too much though.
They will be stiff.

^^^^This^^^^

In the early morning, when the shingles are cool, slide a large blade putty knife under the top shingle to break the seal. Do not bend the shingle back yet though. You will also have a nail on your starter strip, but it may be up far enough out of the way. Two ways around that......either get a flat bar and pop the nail out, or you may have to notch the drip edge.

Once you have the shingles loose from prying them apart, go have a few cups of coffee until the sun hits the shingles and they become more pliable. You'll have to carefully raise it up enough to get the nail and hammer in there.

Depending on where you are at, if anywhere around my area, we aren't going to have too many hot days left, so get a tube off asphalt sealer, or soe sort of a good caulking, and fasten your shingles back down to the starter after you get things nailed.

And to answer your first question......You DO NOT want to nail the drip edge in the front. For one, that's just halfassing things and would look tacky. Even though it will take a little longer, do it the right way.

NOW......if the drip edge does not hang down over your gutters, you may want to pick up some coil stock, and put it into the gutter up to the bottom of the shingles on the fascia, then put your drip edge on. Water has a tendency to siphon back on the small flared lip of drip edge, and that is when you get water running behind your gutters. A piece of flashing will eliminate that. Byt all rights, when a gutter is hung correctly, it should be up under your drip edge in the first place.
 

readhead

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,187
Location
Durango, Co.
Nothing at all wrong with drip edge but roofs were installed for hundreds of years without it. I am starting to see new houses built without drip edge for design reasons.
Do you really need it or did someone tell you to put it on?
 

Tucko

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Joined
Jul 28, 2012
Messages
1,650
Location
Whittier, Ca
I wasn't sure if i could lift up the shingles enough to nail it down properly, thats why i asked if i could nail in the front

You could nail in front, but all the nail holes would have to be sealed, and it would look like ****.
 
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