Dripping oil fill pipe

[billp603]

I've known there was some type of drip for a few years as there was always a smell of oil in the basement after the tank was filled. I was home and in the basement the other day when it was filled and I was able to see where the drip was coming from (circled on the attached pictures). It didn't start immediately and was only a drip every 8-10 seconds when it did start, so it was maybe 20-25 drips by the time he was done. My question is: How hard would it be to take this joint apart and add fresh pipe dope to the threads? It's a straight run of 1-1/4" pipe to the outside so it would just be this one joint to deal with. The house was built in '83 and I'm sure it's never been apart, are these threads going to be rusted together, or is the fact that oil is seeping through mean it should come apart easily? I have a 14" pipe wrench and can borrow a 24" one, how much leverage is it going to take for this to come apart? Would I be better off to get a new piece? I'm not too scared of digging into stuff but just am wondering what I'll be getting into. Thanks!!

 

[captain14]

Do you have a service plan for the oil burner and oil tank? This might be covered by the vendor?

I cannot tell you about the pipe repair itself

 

[billp603]

No service plan, I change my own nozzle, filters, & pump screen each year and have the oil company in every 3 or 4 years just to check the readings with their meters.

 

[rob in nh]

i would try to tighten first , i had the same type of leak and thats all it took to fix it.

 

[rlitman]

It would come apart easily, but is there a chance it is overfilled, and full of oil at the moment?

I agree that unless it was put together without dope in the first place, tightening may be a better idea than taking it apart.

 

[billp603]

Not overfilled, since the price is going down, I only had 150 gallons delivered and it went from 1/4 to 3/4 full. It was dripping while it was being filled and stopped shortly afterwards. If I try to tighten and it turns 45 deg. then the angle of the fill cap outside will be off and I'd have to "loosen" that to be pointing up. I don't think I'd be able to tighten 180 degrees from each end.
Maybe it is something I should have the oil tech do next time they're here, its been like this for 5+ years but this was just the first time I saw exactly where it was dripping

 

[captain14]

Have you contained the spill in the basement by putting an absorbent pad or kitty litter under it yet?

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Unscrew the pipe where the drip is and slide the pipe back a few inches,clean the threads up and dope them up with some rector seal.
Screw it back together while having somebody outside tell you when to stop.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You have the pipe wrenches already just make sure you buy some decent pipe dope. When I replumbed my lines, I used some Oatey Great White Pipe Joint Compound when they went back together. If you don't have any, any hardware store or big box store should have it.

It's an easy fix that you can do yourself, but might take somebody else to hold a wrench inside while you're outside wrenching it tight, maybe not.

Just make sure if the pipe is caulked around where it goes through the house that you cut the caulk so it does destroy the finish/paint when you take it loose. Recaulk it when finished.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Great-White-8-oz-Pipe-Joint-Compound-31231/100343337

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Its easier to get leverage to tighten the pipe up closer to the fitting.

 

[anthony666]

bill if this thing is driving you nuts enough to ask about it on the internet lets fix it

like the other fellas said, spin it out and dope it up .. i'll bet it winds out easier than pie because of all the oil in the threads .. make sure to support the vertical pipe coming out of the top of the tank so it doesn't deform the tank threads

the one thing i will add is before you pull it apart, clean the pipe off and index it with a mark .. if the pipe is dark use some liquid paper/white out or a silver sharpy .. if the pipe is light enough use a black sharpy .. that way you know for sure where top is and when the fill cap is in the right orientation

 

[billp603]

Have you contained the spill in the basement by putting an absorbent pad or kitty litter under it yet?

Don't worry it's nothing big enough to "contain", it's literally measured in drops, and mostly absorbed by the dust on the tank. It's just those few drops leave a lingering smell in the basement for a day or two.

Thanks everyone else, it sounds like it should be an easy fix, I've dealt with black iron pipe a few times at work but mostly new stuff on machine builds, just didn't know what to expect on a 30+ year old joint. I'll mark the orientation to the elbow so I'll know when the outside is clocked right. Probably next w/e's project.

 

[rlitman]

...just didn't know what to expect on a 30+ year old joint. I'll mark the orientation to the elbow so I'll know when the outside is clocked right...

30 years at the top of a fuel tank; should be good as new.
Yep, marking it at the elbow for orientation would be easiest.

My favorite dope is Rectorseal 5.

 

[walrus]

if on automatic delivery make sure they don't show up with it unhooked in basement

 

[arsco]

leak lock. will not leak
http://www.highsidechem.com/leaklock.html

 

[Travo131]

Spin the pipe out smear some gasoila dope on it and spin it back in. gravy

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... If ya just put yer big pipe wrench on the outside fill fittin', 'n turn it a full turn, Tighter,....

It'll be all fixed, 'n better than new,....