Driveway before construction?

[dockdoc]

Quick question on order of operations... new garage will require a long concrete driveway to access it behind the house.

The concrete guys can either do the foundation + slab + driveway all at once, or do the foundation first then come back and do the slab and driveway.

They're going to tear up my front yard with machinery to build the foundation, so ideally I'd like to have them just go ahead and put the driveway in when they're done. This would also take a lot of the pressure off me getting things done quickly, I can take my time if the driveway is in and everything's looking nice from the front of the house.

Is that risky in terms of having lumber delivered afterwards? I.e., are the lumber and delivery trucks likely to damage the new concrete driveway, even if it's cured for a few weeks?

 

[bamawildcat]

I think it is personal preference. I wouldn't worry about damage to the driveway as much as staining. Red mud may never completely pressure wash off a driveway, and most delivery vehicles follow the lubrication principal of "if it isn't leaking, it's empty", so expect a lot of oil stains.

 

[dockdoc]

I think it is personal preference. I wouldn't worry about damage to the driveway as much as staining. Red mud may never completely pressure wash off a driveway, and most delivery vehicles follow the lubrication principal of "if it isn't leaking, it's empty", so expect a lot of oil stains.

Ah I hadn’t even thought of that! Was just thinking about the driveway cracking.

Really just talking about lumber / materials delivery, but I could have them drop it at the street and then cart it back to the garage myself too (except trusses, not messing around with that).

Good point about red mud. Our house was renovated 5 years ago and I still find red mud stains all over the place!

 

[wayne55]

Not that knowlegable, but if I had a choice, I would wait until last to do the driveway to give it time to cure. If construction is still going on, it will be hard to keep trucks of of it.

 

[Vicious_Cycle]

I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it, and so will weather. After all deliveries are made and your base is super stable, then think about pouring a driveway.

 

[larry_g]

I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it, and so will weather. After all deliveries are made and your base is super stable, then think about pouring a driveway.

X2 here. A good base makes a good drive. Also if you run into money problems then I'd prefer a partial building than a concrete drive to nowhere. I've survived better than 30 years without a paved drive.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Jackfre]

Whichever way you go, make sure you put a few capped off pipes under the drive. Taht way, when you realize all the things you forgot to install you have a pathway to get pipe, wires under the drive. I am always amazed that municipalities repave a road and then dig it up to put services in, immediately. Don't be them.

 

[pcmeiners]

First, I highly doubt the entire area will be compacted properly. Preliminarily I would hire a heavily load large dump truck to make multiple runs over the entire area to be creted, going one direction, and other runs diagonal (relative cheap); the garage/driveway area will need more compaction before the slab is poured if your concern to cracking and your willing to pay..
I would pour in two separate days, garage area first, you do not want a tired crew doing to much in one day. Driveway very last, as you do not want heavy truck on it as the cure is much slower in the winter. As is the heavy trucks will be the lumber/sheetrock loaded truck and the concrete truck. Run utility/sewer lines in trench running parallel to the driveway area NOT close to the drive way. Best to wait to early spring, but before the heat comes.

"I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it,"

Natural settling takes over 50 years, if you crete over uncompacted land your driveway/slab will be a series of cracks. I have put in driveways and slabs, and foundations/slabs for 10 story building which have no cracks. The BS that all crete cracks is a myth developed for poor installation by so called contractors, or owners unwilling to pay to do it correctly.

 

[mcbane]

I had a bad experience with doing the driveway first. The contractor managed to scratch and chip the new concrete as he carelessly stored bundles of rebar on the driveway. So I suggest saving the driveway for last.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I put the base in first and part of it was an existing gravel drive. BTW: Contractors seemed to park, drive and keep materials everywhere except the driveway (or other established areas).
The foundation guy seemed to prefer my newly installed leach field. Also gave me a quote on repairing the ruts left from getting his equipment stuck. Funny he wouldn't give me a quote for redoing the leach field, replacing the septic tank (or even look at the original quote/bill).

 

[ddurrett896]

Are you bricking it? If so, I would want the brick down first then pour the driveway up to it.

Regardless, I would do...

Pour 1: Footer
block work
Pour 2: Slab
build garage
Pour 3: Driveway

 

[59 wagon man]

keep the wife and neighbors and wife happy.if you can unload trucks in the street like you say then the front yard and dirt will be finished and takes the stress out of life from the wife

 

[napaul]

I wouldn't risk it myself. get the foundation poured and slab on garage and wait on driveway till end....I would be bothered having new driveway poured then marked up or stained or damaged by others. As mentioned previously put the prep work in on drive way base and let mother nature do her job in helping to pack while construction going on. then before pour get it packed properly one last time and do the pour.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it, and so will weather. After all deliveries are made and your base is super stable, then think about pouring a driveway.

I agree with this, have all of the gravel down first and let the trucks, time and weather pack it down before the final pour


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ford33]

I would put the driveway in later after major construction is done. Avoid the headaches of worrying about driveway damage during construction.

You will have a nice new garage and want the driveway to look good. Commercial vehicles will leak oil, contractors will drag heavy items across the concrete marking it and you will be worried when ever a new trades person arrives.

Most often new homes around me are nearly finished before the sidewalk and driveway is placed. Maybe the home builders have learned a lesson.

 

[matt_i]

Personally I'd do woven geofabric and the base stone.

Then you can drive large trucks over it and not worry,

Would **** to have a 5 figure driveway go in and the first loaded concrete truck for foundation pouring break it into large chunks.

 

[Joemctag]

Driving a truck over a corner of a new slab can break it so if you had a g.c. he’d tear out and replace that whole section but otherwise don’t let people drive on your new slab. Ask how I know.

 

[Chevy-SS]

I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it, and so will weather. After all deliveries are made and your base is super stable, then think about pouring a driveway.

Yeah, something like this is the way^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I recently built large garage/addition onto my house and the delivery trucks tore up the yard like crazy. I didn't care because the driveway (and lawn) was the last things to do. I wouldn't have been able to sleep nights worrying about those delivery trucks trashing a brand new driveway!!!!

 

[sweetk30]

I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it, and so will weather. After all deliveries are made and your base is super stable, then think about pouring a driveway.

x2

 

[jkuro]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicious_Cycle
I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it, and so will weather. After all deliveries are made and your base is super stable, then think about pouring a driveway.


X4

 

[CraigStu]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicious_Cycle
I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it, and so will weather. After all deliveries are made and your base is super stable, then think about pouring a driveway.


X4

I agree. As much as all the guys I talked to during our home build were great guys, those big trucks seem to go by a rule- I am going to get where I have to go and I don't care what I run over.

 

[ratdoggy]

I waited over a year to wait for the ground to get compacted enough around a new house before putting in a concrete patio. The patio didn't have any trucks driving over it.
I'd wait for the driveway

 

[dockdoc]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicious_Cycle
I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it, and so will weather. After all deliveries are made and your base is super stable, then think about pouring a driveway.


X4

So the driveway base is just the dirt that’s already there....

 

[NUTTSGT]

I would put the driveway base in now and allow it to settle over time. Normal traffic will compact it, and so will weather. After all deliveries are made and your base is super stable, then think about pouring a driveway.

In case you didn't see it the first, second or what amount of times it has been quoted. Heck I even bolded it.

I agree hands down.

 

[Kevin54]

Always put the drive in first to pack things down. Ballast first then let the workers pack it tight. After the place is built, top off with crushed limestone. But if you want a paved driveway, drive over the crushed stoned for a year. Pack things tight.

 

[SALIV8]

I would put it in last.

 

[dockdoc]

I’m not sure my previous post went through... but locally concrete driveways are placed right on the dirt (red clay) without gravel / ballast. Does that change the answer?

I’m building the garage myself so I’m not expecting a bunch of trucks to constantly be going in and out. Just lumber and truss delivery.

 

[JWILLIE1977]

Been lurking on here recently, and this is my first post. As a construction inspector and materials testing technician, my advice is to do the driveway last, for all the reasons previously stated.

Get the area cut to sub grade, install your woven geo textile fabric, and at least 1 foot subbase stone, (maybe more depending on soil conditions) one foot wider than your concrete driveway width, on each side. Compact the material with a good heavy roller. Over the course of building the garage, construction traffic and mother nature will further compact the subbase. Construction traffic can help identify potential soft spots over time, giving you the opportunity to repair them before concrete. When the time comes to install your driveway, have the site guy, or concrete contractor fine grade the area, recompact the surface and pour the driveway.

QUOTE=pcmeiners;8319460] The BS that all crete cracks is a myth developed for poor installation by so called contractors, or owners unwilling to pay to do it correctly.[/QUOTE

This statement could not be more incorrect.

ALL CONCRETE CRACKS. Period. Especially true in residential mixes with contractors that insist on pouring a high water slump mix. This is why joints are sawed or tooled into the slab, to give the concrete a place to crack. As the concrete cures, water is migrating to the surface, (bleed water) and evaporating from the exposed surface area, the driveway in this instance, the overall volume of the concrete is decreasing, or shrinking. There are many finishing and curing procedures that can limit the extent of the concrete cracking, but ultimately, your slab will develop cracks.

I will agree with those that say poor workmanship CAN cause cracking, slab too thin, high slump low strength mixes, etc. Etc. Even slabs with no loading will develop cracks as the concrete cures, you just may not see them because the cracks occur within in the control joints. All bets are off on cracking caused by overloading the slab, or general misuse.

 

[jkuro]

Put down a bed of gravel and have everyone drive on it, during the build to get it compacted. Build garage then pour drive.

 

[dockdoc]

Been lurking on here recently, and this is my first post. As a construction inspector and materials testing technician, my advice is to do the driveway last, for all the reasons previously stated.

Get the area cut to sub grade, install your woven geo textile fabric, and at least 1 foot subbase stone, (maybe more depending on soil conditions) one foot wider than your concrete driveway width, on each side. Compact the material with a good heavy roller. Over the course of building the garage, construction traffic and mother nature will further compact the subbase. Construction traffic can help identify potential soft spots over time, giving you the opportunity to repair them before concrete. When the time comes to install your driveway, have the site guy, or concrete contractor fine grade the area, recompact the surface and pour the driveway.

QUOTE=pcmeiners;8319460] The BS that all crete cracks is a myth developed for poor installation by so called contractors, or owners unwilling to pay to do it correctly.[/QUOTE

This statement could not be more incorrect.

ALL CONCRETE CRACKS. Period. Especially true in residential mixes with contractors that insist on pouring a high water slump mix. This is why joints are sawed or tooled into the slab, to give the concrete a place to crack. As the concrete cures, water is migrating to the surface, (bleed water) and evaporating from the exposed surface area, the driveway in this instance, the overall volume of the concrete is decreasing, or shrinking. There are many finishing and curing procedures that can limit the extent of the concrete cracking, but ultimately, your slab will develop cracks.

I will agree with those that say poor workmanship CAN cause cracking, slab too thin, high slump low strength mixes, etc. Etc. Even slabs with no loading will develop cracks as the concrete cures, you just may not see them because the cracks occur within in the control joints. All bets are off on cracking caused by overloading the slab, or general misuse.

Put down a bed of gravel and have everyone drive on it, during the build to get it compacted. Build garage then pour drive.

Thanks all, appreciate the tips. I'm definitely aware that concrete cracks (our current driveway is pretty new, but all the control joints are cracked, which is where they should be!), just trying to avoid putting undue strain on a brand new driveway with heavy trucks / equipment.

I was NOT planning on putting down gravel under the concrete (as I said, it's not done that way around here, they just put it down on the clay), but I will look into doing that just so I can maintain a non-muddy construction entrance.

 

[CraigStu]

In this area they tailgate what is referred to as erosion control stone. It is 4-8 inchs with flats and points. None of the rounded river stone. This stuff is good for the delivery trucks. I would do that now and the final finish surface as close to move-in date as possible. The problem I have seen is the2 and 3 axle dump trucks can't make tight turns. And the tighter they try the more the tires are sliding sideways. So they are constantly running off the edge of whatever you have down. The running off the edge is the killer.

 

[rayra]

OP lists Charlotte NC, clay, and a project heading into the wetter part of the year. I'd be putting down a gravel road to the build area so everybody isn't working or driving in the mud.

 

[tez929rr]

We had our driveway (about 100 yards lon) redone in concrete about 12 years ago. Until recently we had a dumpster truck come down weekly and never saw any problems.

 

[rburke65]

If it’s a totally new drive, I’d have it dug out and the base laid so the construction trucks have access to the site, then after it’s built, place the drive

 

[aggie113]

If one way saves you money, do it that way.

 

[larry4406]

Driveway and slab last - on your foundation have stem walls and frame off them. Your slab can be poured after the roof is on.

 

[woodscaper]

I wonder how @dockdoc made out, it's been 2-1/2 years.

 

[Fueler]

For those that want to do the driveway base first to pack it down.
As a veteran of gravel driveway ownership you will only get 2 lines packed down.
This leads to having to grade it back level later negating all that packing.
This is also the possibility of having to haul in more truck loads to achieve the level and elevation required due to all that free packing?
The point is while there has to be some gravel for the workers to get in and out on don't expect miracles.
Most likely it will wind up a gravel and mud mess anyway.

Perhaps there is a way to make it a "hard pack" to begin with but I will leave that idea to professional advice.

 

[larry4406]

I like to benefit from rain and construction traffic packing down my site. Thus construction drive at time zero. Then sewer and water go in at time of groundwork’s. Asphalt or concrete driveways always after drywall truck stocks. That’s your last biggest truck to eff your drive.