I have an irrigation ditch I need a culvert put into so I can access the back side of the property. Should I go with the metal corrugated stuff some steel pipe or will the corrugated plastic stuff be able to support the weight of a truck and loaded trailer?
driveway culvert
- Thread starter v1ru5879
- Start date
Way to many variables here.
Size of culvert needed to carry max flow?
Is this truck and trailer 10klbs or 60klbs?
Soil type, will it compact around the culvert?
Will you be using this when the soil is saturated with water?
Have you give thought to how to handle washout on the exit of the culvert?
A lot of things play into selecting the proper setup. If deep enough then the plastic will work, we use it most places on the farm.
lg
no neat sig line
Its literally a small irrigation ditch about 8 inches wide and 10 inches deep. I only use it sparingly. Biggest truck back there will pry be a 2500 chevy with a 16' flatbed for hauling out brush. I would not be opposed to mounding over the culvert either. I just need a 12' section so I can have vehicle access to the area. I have heard the composite culverts are quite strong when buried down with sufficient soil over, however everyone I talk to suggests going with metal. I think an 8" culvert would be the biggest I would need for the section. 6" might be a little small but would work.
joe49
Well-known member
You can just bush hog the brush? If terrain is to steep move brush to a flat area and mow it in. Why haul it, it will compost back in.
Its mostly tree limbs and leafs I want to get a chipper back there and shred it all up. It is a huge fire danger as it sits due to extreme New Mexico drought. The are used to be a corral so I will just spread out the chippings into the field
bradpac
Well-known member
8" metal culvert buried on top you could drive whatever over it and be fine.
jimgood
Well-known member
I would use the metal corrugated pipe just to be safe and make it 4 feet wider on each side than you think you need. The problems begin when the edges get hidden by undergrowth.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
There is a DOT approved corrugated plastic culvert available. They have a bonded inner liner making it double wall, and stronger.
kaiser715
Well-known member
Metal or concrete won't burn.... http://bitterrootstar.com/2018/05/forest-road-closed-due-to-damaged-culvert/
For something that small just put in a row of concrete hollow block just to make a place to ford the ditch.
SimS
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
Metal is easiest. My oldest one is 50 years old. Don't go too small. Trapped debris can plug. Rebar strainers need maintenance. A fox has kits each year in one of my culverts.
I bought four that were around 16" at the scrap yard for double the scrap rate price. Cheaper options always exist.
A compact tractor pto driven wood chipper could cross unimproved land.
I bought four that were around 16" at the scrap yard for double the scrap rate price. Cheaper options always exist.
A compact tractor pto driven wood chipper could cross unimproved land.
Last edited:
Its an irrigation ditch on my property to which I own two sets of watering rights. This I dug across my yard to get water to the back of my house. I am totally free to be able to modify to suit my needs. This way works the best for my layout. I was leaning more towards the 8" for keeping the debris out. I have no problem finding 4" stuff its once I get to the 6" and greater it becomes a little scarce to find, without buying a 20' section at a time
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
If you like little ones, you can gang up several for enough flow. I live somewhat near the edge of an almost desert. I get flash floods. I like big culverts with bulk heads or lots of native plant life. The extra wildlife habitat is a plus.
You can always contour the ground for better drainage. Dig a ditch. Put down some berms. Put in a bridge.
You can always contour the ground for better drainage. Dig a ditch. Put down some berms. Put in a bridge.
denis4x4
Well-known member
We use the oval corrugated metal pipe on our ditch crossings. Have at lease two feet on either side, four feet would be even better.
Orionrising
Well-known member
a rule of thumb for culvert cover is one foot or half the diameter whichever is greater.
Flail
Well-known member
I’ve used 12” double wall plastic stuff for years. My main drive way has one buried only 4”. Fully loaded concrete trucks drive over it without problem.
6768rogues
Banned
I would use corrugated plastic. If it is fully bedded, it will stand a lot of weight.
chipdog4
Well-known member
Anyone know if the dual wall plastic culverts can be cut down to shorter lengths? Are the walls 'fused' together in each valley?
This is at my parents place and there's a drainage pipe from a dry dam about 7' away from the other end.
I want to add 6 feet to the other side of this one and use the rest of a 20 foot section on this side.
They are sold in 12 and 20' lengths.
This one is 30" diameter
This is at my parents place and there's a drainage pipe from a dry dam about 7' away from the other end.
I want to add 6 feet to the other side of this one and use the rest of a 20 foot section on this side.
They are sold in 12 and 20' lengths.
This one is 30" diameter
Lynden
Well-known member
Cut it with a reciprocating saw.
Lots of information here....
https://www.google.com/search?clien......0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.fmzHBeK0ZPA
Last edited:
chipdog4
Well-known member
Hey, thanks.
I didn't think this was a common enough topic to try searching for.
I didn't think this was a common enough topic to try searching for.
