To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

driveway gate

ClearWaterMS

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
209
Location
Lombard, IL
Dear Garage Journal,

I came seeking the sage advice of the DIY community here at GJ.

Next to my garage I have a driveway that provides access to the back yard. The driveway isn't often used and the gate will probably only be opened 1 or 2 times a week.

The current "gate" is a single 10' fence section that is attached to a 4x4 post and is leaning/falling apart.

Here are a few pictures:
1. Here is the north side of the gate and is the post that I would likely be replacing with something stronger.
XY6IUze.jpg


2. Here is the garage side of the gate
JW2wdT2.jpg


3. Here is the entire gate
4hDiO5z.jpg


I have two options that I am considering:

1.) replace the current post on the outside with an 8' 8x8 (currently it's a 4x4) that is 2.5~3' in the ground and build a single 10' swinging gate i would likely attempt to copy this person's design as best as possible.

2.) build 2 5' gates; I could use a metal DIY kit such as this: https://www.dura-gate.com/product/10-ft-double-dura-gate-standard-frame-kit-black/
or two of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TH7TZ2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I had dual gates at my old house and during high winds the gates would move in and out and even with the drop bolt in place enough wind would eventually blow open the one side. I have pets and this gate is not visible from the house, so my fear is always going to be that the gate gets blown open and the run away. At the old house our gate was visible from the kitchen and we added a second drop bolt to the second door and the two together prevented the gate from opening.

My second concern is with using dual gates is the necessity of a drop bolt. I would need to drill a small hole into the concrete and I am concerned with freeze/thaw cycles that are common in Chicago winters the hole will fill with water and as it freezes it could cause cracking in the concrete.

My hesitation with a single 10' gate is that it will be big and heavy and considering I don't have the ability to weld and can't find a metal gate kit that is larger enough will end up being made out of wood and wood has a tendency to swell/shrink/warp/etc. in the elements meaning that over time the gate will eventually sag, drag, etc. Additionally the complications of installing it (having to set a 200 pound wooden post) having to hang a gate that is likely to be VERY VERY heavy and the lack of testimonials as to the last qualify of a all wooden gate that is so large.

What does everybody recommend?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Captain Spaulding

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2017
Messages
747
Location
Southern Indiana
I would go with two 5 ft gates. One blowing open is a function of how well the latch between them holds them together. The drop bolt hole should be drilled through the concrete to allow drainage. With both directions available for expansion, even if it freezes it shouldn't be a problem. I'm well south of you, but we do get cold weather. My pool deck has a couple of dozen 3/4 inch holes drilled through it for the cover and I've never had any issues with freeze damage.
 

armstrr

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
83
I'd call these numbers marginal for a 10' gate unless its mostly wire mesh.
I want with dual 5 footers and to be sure there was no saging (I used 6x6s) I included a pergola top. I light weighted by using ceader and the top is removable by backing out 2 lags if say I needed to bring a boat or backhoe.Screenshot_20180424-162343.jpg

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
 

Lelandwelds

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
2,443
Location
Central Texas
The driveway isn't often used and the gate will probably only be opened 1 or 2 times a week.



I had dual gates at my old house and during high winds the gates would move in and out and even with the drop bolt in place enough wind would eventually blow open the one side. I have pets and this gate is not visible from the house, so my fear is always going to be that the gate gets blown open and the run away. At the old house our gate was visible from the kitchen and we added a second drop bolt to the second door and the two together prevented the gate from opening.

My second concern is with using dual gates is the necessity of a drop bolt. I would need to drill a small hole into the concrete and I am concerned with freeze/thaw cycles that are common in Chicago winters the hole will fill with water and as it freezes it could cause cracking in the concrete.

Have you considered quitting to try and latch on the edge of the gate? Move the hinge point and the latch point twelve inches from the gate end. The overlap of 24 inch latch and the two gate ends will work like the barred door on Daniel Boones' front door.
 

Attachments

  • double_outswing-small.jpg
    double_outswing-small.jpg
    27.7 KB · Views: 162

Lelandwelds

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
2,443
Location
Central Texas
I want with dual 5 footers and to be sure there was no saging (I used 6x6s) I included a pergola top. I light weighted by using ceader and the top is removable by backing out 2 lags if say I needed to bring a boat or backhoe.Screenshot_20180424-162343.jpg

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

Pretty.

Buying a gate "kit" is just weird. I didn't know there was such a thing.
 

Rewind97

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1,549
Location
Mississippi
I'm subscribing to this....I have a privacy fence with a 10' (two 5' sections) gate to rebuild. I've been looking at the adjust a gate kits myself.
 
OP
C

ClearWaterMS

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
209
Location
Lombard, IL
I would go with two 5 ft gates. One blowing open is a function of how well the latch between them holds them together. The drop bolt hole should be drilled through the concrete to allow drainage. With both directions available for expansion, even if it freezes it shouldn't be a problem. I'm well south of you, but we do get cold weather. My pool deck has a couple of dozen 3/4 inch holes drilled through it for the cover and I've never had any issues with freeze damage.

Do you have a recommendation for a latch system? The Adjust-a-gate system is known to have poor latches so an upgraded latch would probably be appropriate.

If you have any suggestions, I would be interested in hearing them.
 

xyster101

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2013
Messages
640
Location
Upstate NY

Now that is how you do a gate! If you put 3/4 steel rods out the top, then you could just set the beam on the posts and no need to screw it. That is a beautiful gate.

If you do the 10' gate, I would sink the post in the ground at least 4 ft and dig outwards underneath the gate so the hole was eccentric. Then fill it with 10 bags of concrete to keep it from sagging. I would try to fabricate a latch that would hold the 2 gates though.
 
OP
C

ClearWaterMS

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
209
Location
Lombard, IL
Now that is how you do a gate! If you put 3/4 steel rods out the top, then you could just set the beam on the posts and no need to screw it. That is a beautiful gate.

If you do the 10' gate, I would sink the post in the ground at least 4 ft and dig outwards underneath the gate so the hole was eccentric. Then fill it with 10 bags of concrete to keep it from sagging. I would try to fabricate a latch that would hold the 2 gates though.

could you describe what you mean "a latch that could hold two gates"
 

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
Your PICs did not come through for me.
But, as a rule, for wide gates I like to go with a slider design vs a swing.
Unless given a super deep foundation, swinging gates will sooner or later sag.
A slider does not have any of that stress.
 
OP
C

ClearWaterMS

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
209
Location
Lombard, IL
Your PICs did not come through for me.
But, as a rule, for wide gates I like to go with a slider design vs a swing.
Unless given a super deep foundation, swinging gates will sooner or later sag.
A slider does not have any of that stress.

Sadly i do not have the space for a slider. This gate is on the corner of the fenced area and has the garage immediately on the other side.

The only option is a swinging gate.
 

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
Put the post next to the garage and tie it into the garage so it doesn't sag.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

mikepelchy

Active member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Messages
44
Location
Surrey, ND
I built a gate a couple of years ago so that I could park the camper in the back yard, which I do believe is about 13-14'. I had originally bolted the metal frame/hinges to the 4x4 posts which had been set in concrete. After a year or the 4x4 posts started to lean in towards each other, causing the gates to sag. I ended up pouring concrete piers and then building two metal posts that bolt to the piers and are adjustable so I can re-level them out if needed. If using existing 4x4 wood posts is your only option, I would highly suggest adding some type of bracing to help keep the 4x4s from leaning in.
 

xyster101

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2013
Messages
640
Location
Upstate NY
could you describe what you mean "a latch that could hold two gates"

Fabricate your own latch. Here I designed this for you. One side of the gate has a extra latch to lock onto a block. That will keep it from lifting up in winds. On both sides of the door have the black lever that goes up and down to lock the doors. On one side you have a lock to hold the levers down.
This solution would only allow you to unlock it from one side, but I whipped this up in 5 min on sketch up. If you spend more time, you could design a way for it to work on both sides.

I just thought you could also make a sliding bar that would slide on both sides. I can draw that up if you need. door.jpg

door2.jpg

door3.jpg

door4.jpg
 

CraigStu

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,014
Location
Blacksburg, Va
I have a light weight double gate that I made my own latch for. Get 4 of these.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Copper-Tube-Straps-5-Pack-C624HD12/204620164
Not necessarily this exact piece but this design.
A 3-4 ft piece of pipe w/ threads on both ends.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-1-2-in-x-36-in-Black-Steel-Schedule-40-Cut-Pipe-21-700536/304751775
Also a 90 deg, a short ******, and a cap. Screw these together on one end of the pipe to act as your handle. Put two of the hangers on each gate fixing the positions so that you slide the pipe so 1/2 it's length is in each gate. I let the handle end hang downward when I leave it. Mine has no stops for the pipe slide but you could run a screw into the gate that captures the pipe handle when the gate is locked and the handle hanging down. You can decide what diameter and length of pipe will work best for your use.
 

MagKarl

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
684
Location
Olympia, WA
I built a set of gates that were different sizes to cover a 10' opening.

The primary was man door sized, maybe 3.5' and the 6.5' size stayed closed most of the time unless I was moving a vehicle. Worked good for us.

I use 1/4" cable and turnbuckles for diagonal braces on gates and posts to fine tune alignment.
 

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,493
Location
visalia ca
I have plans to do something similar for the side of my house.

I prefer to have two gates as I will be walking through some of the time.
My plan is to do a 7ft and a 3ft game.
I have long ago given up on wood posts and now use steel posts that I fill with concrete
 

Slednut

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
2,550
Location
Washington state
I built a set of gates that were different sizes to cover a 10' opening.

The primary was man door sized, maybe 3.5' and the 6.5' size stayed closed most of the time unless I was moving a vehicle. Worked good for us.

I use 1/4" cable and turnbuckles for diagonal braces on gates and posts to fine tune alignment.

Using the turnbuckles works great if the gate is strong enough. I added a piece of channel iron so the gate won't warp.

I also have two gates that span 20 feet. It has a post in the center that is removable. It also has a garage door opener on it. It has a cable that opens the latch when the opener is operated.

I should say there are three gates that span the 20' opening, the one gate has a 3' gate at the end of it. The opener holds the large part of the gate so going in and out of the small gate is no problem. It looks Rude Goldberg but the gates have been this way for years, I just have to adjust the turnbuckles between seasons.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0423.jpg
    IMG_0423.jpg
    156.3 KB · Views: 90
  • IMG_0424.jpg
    IMG_0424.jpg
    152.8 KB · Views: 90
  • IMG_0425.jpg
    IMG_0425.jpg
    112.4 KB · Views: 84
  • IMG_0426.jpg
    IMG_0426.jpg
    143.4 KB · Views: 84

ford33

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
2,118
Location
Chicago, IL. USA
There are welding shops in every city. They are located in industrial areas where most people do not normally travel. You just need to find the shop. I would bet they have built large gates for local businesses.

On large gates, a metal gate frame with light weight wood slats attached would provide a light weight structure. You could also use a large caster wheel at the end of the gate to provide support at the unhinged side.

Armstrr's suggestion of a horizontal support across the vertical posts would prevent the posts from moving inward but not fore and aft. Still it provides great support for the downward force of the gate on the hinge and it adds an architectural feature to enhance the structure.

There are many good options. You just need to pick one.
 
OP
C

ClearWaterMS

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
209
Location
Lombard, IL
*update*

I replaced the gate this weekend. I ended up with a double swing gate and used the Adjust-a-gate kit available from Amazon (and hardware stores). I also upgraded the end post from a 4x4 to a 8' 6x6 that was buried 32" into the ground with 5 bags of 50 pound cement. The gate assembly itself was straight forward, install the hinges, assemble the gate, cut the 2x4's to size and screw them in. It was made much easier with a few clamps to pull the the gate square before screwing the posts in. The other problem was the latch assembly . In the end it turned out nice, and I am very happy with it.

The whole project took 1.5 days, I picked up the materials from Menards on Friday at 3pm and finished on Saturday around the same time. Friday I pulled down the old fence, got the post replaced, and installed 5 of the 7 panels. Saturday I had to install the last two panels and the gate. Total project time was around 10~12 hours. It was a very satisfying project and I am very happy with the results.

1Z8Np6r.jpg


R9V0wrt.jpg
 

ddurrett896

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2015
Messages
994
Location
VA
I'm subscribing to this....I have a privacy fence with a 10' (two 5' sections) gate to rebuild. I've been looking at the adjust a gate kits myself.

Buy a cattle gate from Tractor supply, lag a 2x4 on the top, middle and bottom, add a trailer wheels or cattle gate wheel (if on concrete) and screw the pickets into the 2x4.

Have 2 myself and everyone I know is doing this now with no issues.
 

Attachments

  • 6A18E522-8346-489B-990C-88C9F0E6E551.jpg
    6A18E522-8346-489B-990C-88C9F0E6E551.jpg
    153 KB · Views: 62
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom