Driveway info

[bchap56]

I'm hoping to put a short driveway from the alley to the rear of my shop. How thick should it be? Is there anything that i should be on the look out for? This is my first time planning for a drive.

Thanks

Bryan

 

[sharpshooter]

I assume your talking about a concrete drive???? If so I would reccommend 4inches and it wouldnt hurt to drop any steel in it either. Oh and if your doing the grade work yourself, watch out for water and gas lines

 

[bchap56]

Concrete was my first thought. What about asphault? Pros/ Cons?

 

[boiler7904]

Concrete thickness depends on type and volume of traffic. If it is a normal residential drive, go with a minimum of 5" of 4,000 psi concrete and 6x6 mesh. If it will be subjected to truck traffic, think about going thicker on the concrete and heavier on the steel.

Asphalt is an option.

Pros: Cheaper short term, No concrete cure time, easier to make adjustments to surface during install if situation comes up.

Cons: Requires regular maintenance (sealcoating every 3 or 4 years), shorter life span before replacement (or significant maintenance), softer material - will deform under heavy loads, not a DIY project because of required paving equipment.

 

[boiler7904]

Oh and if your doing the grade work yourself, watch out for water and gas lines

You also have to watch out for buried electric and phone service. Best to call a utility locating service.

If you call in a locate in this area and stay within the limits of where the utilities are marked, you are not responsible for any damage to utilities assuming that you work within the 10 day limit of the utility markings. Need to work on day 11? - Call for another locate. If you are working on an expired locate or without a locate, you are responsible for any and all utility damage whether it's on your property or not if you are doing the digging.

 

[bchap56]

Thanks. That helps. The only traffic I have planned is for parking a 3rd vehicle and driving into my shop. Didi I say its only about 25 feet long? Would that still require 5" with the mesh?

 

[boiler7904]

Thanks. That helps. The only traffic I have planned is for parking a 3rd vehicle and driving into my shop. Didi I say its only about 25 feet long? Would that still require 5" with the mesh?

At 25' long, adding 1" to the thickness only adds 1 yard of concrete for every 13' of width (roughly). To me, adding a couple of yards of concrete now is cheap compared to tearing up and replacing a concrete driveway later. The steel is there to help hold the concrete together since it has virtually no tensile strength. Add the steel - you'll regret not doing it later.

 

[sharpshooter]

Your talking roughly about 5 yards of concrete at 5 inches, and the steel will be your little piece of mind


oh and I figured that at 25x12 @ 5in

 

[Kevin54]

Asphalt is fine but will eventually crack and it does need periodic resealing. Also any jack stands, jacks, etc. is a no-no unless you set them on something to distribute the weight. Concrete is best. But if you get concrete, specify rebar in it. And specify that any control joint be sawed across an area of full rebar. That way when the joints crack, if it goes to settle, the rebar will hold the two areas at the same height. Wire mesh can stretch and allow for uneven joints if settling occurs. And the fibermesh concrete will not prevent any of the above from happening. It is good stuff but not a cure all for problems. Also whatever type of drive you put in, make sure the base is firm and compacted. The best bet if you know that you are going to be putting a new drive in and you don't yet have a base, get a good gravel / ballast base and drive / park on it for a few months before the driveway is ever put down. I have seen new drives cut in, gravel dumped and smoothed out, concrete poured, only to be cracking out a year later due to settling.

Kevin