Driveway widening help

[bagged89s10]

I'm planning to widen my driveway about 3 feet so I stop parking on dirt/grass and mud in the winter. My driveway is old but I don't plan to repave it anytime soon because of the cost. I just want to use stone dust or something that will pack fairly tightly. Here are my questions.

1) how deep should I dig?
2) what material should I use?
3) do I have to worry about the edge of my current driveway crumbling away.

 

[The Cobbler]

give the condition of existing driveway, I would go 4 or 5 inches of stone. when the driveway get red-done they will dig deeper

 

[BillK]

I would go down 3 or 4 inches. See if anyone in your area sells asphalt millings, they pack down almost like asphalt.

 

[machsnell]

Dig down 6 inches to be safe if you will be paving the addition at some point.

If you have good ground that is solid and supports weight well and you don't plan on paving then 4 is fine.

Put in 21a or cr6 or crusher run, basically whatever stone base is called in your area.

Install and compact- well.

Dig when dry and wet stone down a little when you compact

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[bagged89s10]

Thanks all for the info. I'll go 6" to be safe.

one paving contractor told me my driveway is so old and solid, he would recommend just cutting out the sections where there is tree root damage, and paving 2 inches right over the top. The driveway slopes down the from the garage with a 2 foot section of concrete by the door that would be dug out if I repave, so drainage would not be an issue.

 

[foogotz]

I am doing the same project right now. I went down 10-12 inches and filled it with 6 inches of RCA compacting every few inches. I plan on driving on it for the winter (letting mother nature take on some of the work) and then pouring next year.

 

[Firebrick43]

All this is useless without some more info. How big/heavy of vehicles do you have on it? What kind of soils?

I personally would go less than 12" but I have some heavy trucks in and out at times. Do you have delivery trucks or propane delivery?

The best way I have found to build a drive is a well packed 2-3" layer of ag lime. A layer of heavy landscaping cloth would be a good sub. This layer prevents mud pumping.

A 4" layer of #4's on the cloth or #2's on lime well packed. Then if your paving a layer of packed #8's would be good for drainage. Other wise layers of packed #53's. With a plate or jumping jack don't try to pack more than 4" at a time, 3" would be better.

 

[bagged89s10]

Usually my wife's trailblazer or my f150 work truck with a cap and full of tools.
Nothing heavier.

The soil is pretty packed right now and has some clay in it.

 

[machsnell]

Thanks all for the info. I'll go 6" to be safe.

one paving contractor told me my driveway is so old and solid, he would recommend just cutting out the sections where there is tree root damage, and paving 2 inches right over the top. The driveway slopes down the from the garage with a 2 foot section of concrete by the door that would be dug out if I repave, so drainage would not be an issue.

The picture I see shows a driveway that isn't solid. There are a lot of cracks and not the long standalone cracks which are inevitable and can be covered with petromat before a resurface.

I am paving contractor and I would remove the driveway and resurface when time because the existing cracks will reflect through to the surface for sure. It costs more so if budget major concern then I would have contractor spray tack heavily and even and cover with a paving fabric. This is relatively cheap and buys some time and insurance against cracks reflecting and provides better moisture barrier.

Pave when dry so ground is tight.

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[bagged89s10]

The picture I see shows a driveway that isn't solid. There are a lot of cracks and not the long standalone cracks which are inevitable and can be covered with petromat before a resurface.

I am paving contractor and I would remove the driveway and resurface when time because the existing cracks will reflect through to the surface for sure. It costs more so if budget major concern then I would have contractor spray tack heavily and even and cover with a paving fabric. This is relatively cheap and buys some time and insurance against cracks reflecting and provides better moisture barrier.

Pave when dry so ground is tight.

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Glad a paving contractor like yourself chimed in.

 

[bagged89s10]

Dug out most of the area where I'm widening the driveway yesterday. It down poured all day today so couldn't finish. I still need to go down a few inches.

 

[bagged89s10]

Dug out 4" per recommendations from the stone supplier.

I measured about 230 square ft.
Got 3 cubic yards of 3/4" processed stone.

 

[bagged89s10]

Finished it last night. Not bad for $127 in materials.

 

[Chaznsc]

Dont let anyone pave over the old asphalt. The cracks will reflect thru the new. That pavement is long since past remediation. Dig IT up and anything under it thats soft. Go back with a minimum of 6"o f graded aggregate base course (its gravel plus fines) and 2" of asphalt.