Drop-In Anchor in Tiled Garage Floor

[TipsyMcStagger]

I need to secure a winch to pull my engine-swap project car into the garage. The car will need to be pushed out and pulled back in on a somewhat regular basis.

I'm planing to use some kind of drop in anchor like a Toggler Wej-It POWER-Sert to secure my Warn Pullz-All to two eyelets that I will remove from the drop-in anchors when I'm not using the winch (I plan to insert Allen plugs to keep debris from fouling the anchors).

My garage floor is tiled with AutoStone which is about 1/4” thick. There could be as much as 1/2” of thinset beneath the tile. I'm guessing the slab is around 3 ½ “ thick. I'm not sure if I should plan to have the top of the drop-in anchor flush with the slab surface (potentially, 3/4” beneath the finished tile surface); or if it'll be okay to have the drop-in flush with the top on the tile?

Also not sure what size (diameter) drop-in anchor I should use? I plan to install two anchors. I'm not set on using the POWER-Sert, so if anyone has a better suggestion, I'm all ears. Fastenal is nearby.

Thanks.

Tipsy

 

[readhead]

It needs to be in the slab. I think a 1/2" eye bolt will resist bending in that last 3/4" above the slab. You are not bulling dead weight so it won't take much to pull the car into the garage.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

It needs to be in the slab. I think a 1/2" eye bolt will resist bending in that last 3/4" above the slab. You are not bulling dead weight so it won't take much to pull the car into the garage.

Thanks for the feedback.

Tipsy

 

[ducktapeguy]

If your floor is level and smooth, I think the actual force to move a car is something like 10% of the car weight. Without an engine I would think it would be pretty light that one person could probably push it. So unless you're moving semi trucks, even a beam bolted to the back wall spanning a few studs would probably work temporarily. But if you are going to drill into the floor anyway, I'd install the biggest anchor possible, it's the same amount of work.

 

[texas webb]

And try to not use hammer function to drill thru tile,it can crack.Once thru
the tile its ok then.And I agree on attatching to wall.

 

[jstroede]

Possible to anchor the winch to the back wall of the garage? That's what I have done in the past.

John

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

And try to not use hammer function to drill thru tile,it can crack.Once thru
the tile its ok then.And I agree on attaching to wall.

Noted on the hammer function.

The back wall is about two feet of hollow concrete block with a framed wall above that. I don't want to anchor into hollow block and I'd rather not pull on the framed wall.

I just picked up two 3/4" Redhead drop-in anchors and two 3/4" eye bolts. I'm debating whether to set the anchors in epoxy. The eye bolts aren't long enough to fully set (expand) the anchors, so I'll have to thread a longer bolt in to set them. I'm afraid if I leave the bolt in the anchor while the epoxy sets, the epoxy will seep in preventing the bolt from being removed. Conversely, if I use epoxy and immediately remove the set-bolt while the epoxy dries, the epoxy might seep in and harden on the threads, preventing the eye bolt from threading in.

I'm thinking no epoxy.

Tipsy

 

[volleyball]

You don't want an eyebolt sticking out of the floor permanently.
There are those tie down rings that set into the backing material that will be a lot safer.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I was thinking a pull pot could work for you. Here is one that just drops in. Requires a core drilled hole though. Probably could even put a piece of tile on the lid!

http://www.gradeatools.com/MO-Clamp-3071-MO-TY-Chain-Tie-Down-Anchor-Pull-Pot-p/mo-3071.htm



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[TipsyMcStagger]

You don't want an eyebolt sticking out of the floor permanently.
There are those tie down rings that set into the backing material that will be a lot safer.

Right. I don't plan to have an eyebolt sticking out of the floor permanently. I bought a couple of socket set screws to thread into the anchors to keep the threads clear of debris. I will remove the set screws and install the eyebolts only when needed.

Tipsy

 

[1320stang]

+1 on what Todd.Brock said

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

I was thinking a pull pot could work for you. Here is one that just drops in. Requires a core drilled hole though. Probably could even put a piece of tile on the lid!

http://www.gradeatools.com/MO-Clamp-3071-MO-TY-Chain-Tie-Down-Anchor-Pull-Pot-p/mo-3071.htm

+1 on what Todd.Brock said

Those are nice but way more than I need and way more complicated to install. I'll just need to drill two 1" holes for the Redheads and be done with it.

Tipsy

 

[Todd.Brock]

I see what you are thinking now. I have the Powersert Wedjit epoxy anchors for my max Jax. They are 7/8" by 6 ". Are you going to bolt the winch to that? That would be great for getting **** up my steep driveway.


I found nylon set screws to keep debris out at McMaster Carr. I have a link somewhere


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[TipsyMcStagger]

I see what you are thinking now. I have the Powersert Wedjit epoxy anchors for my max Jax. They are 7/8" by 6 ". Are you going to bolt the winch to that? That would be great for getting **** up my steep driveway.


I found nylon set screws to keep debris out at McMaster Carr. I have a link somewhere

I bought a 120v Warn PullzAll. The winch cable is only 15' long, so my plan is to simply hook a 20' tow strap to the two eye bolts - effectively making the tow strap 10' long - and hooking the Pullzall to that. At the other end, I'll simply attach a tow strap to the car (if necessary) and attach the PullzAll.

Tipsy

 

[readhead]

Those anchors are not designed for epoxy.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Those anchors are not designed for epoxy.

Good to know. The guy at Fastenal seemed pretty clueless.

Tipsy

 

[May Pop]

Make the hole in the tile large enough to put the anchor and washers to put ALL of the pull on the concrete and not the tile or mortar. I pull broken vehicles up my driveway with a winch or another truck using a home made attachment to the floor.I put a snach block or large pulley on the attachment. I go out to the shop and shoot a pic tonite.

 

[ducktapeguy]

I bought a 120v Warn PullzAll. The winch cable is only 15' long, so my plan is to simply hook a 20' tow strap to the two eye bolts - effectively making the tow strap 10' long - and hooking the Pullzall to that. At the other end, I'll simply attach a tow strap to the car (if necessary) and attach the PullzAll.

Tipsy

15 feet? That's one car length. So this means you'll have to push the car to within 25 ft, then only be able to pull the car to within 10 ft of your anchors? Sounds overly complicated and kinda useless unless you have another use for it.

If this isn't going to be a daily occurance, I'd just get a winch plate and a cheap ATV winch. Bolt it to the floor with whatever anchor you want and take it out when you're done.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

15 feet? That's one car length. So this means you'll have to push the car to within 25 ft, then only be able to pull the car to within 10 ft of your anchors? Sounds overly complicated and kinda useless unless you have another use for it.

If this isn't going to be a daily occurance, I'd just get a winch plate and a cheap ATV winch. Bolt it to the floor with whatever anchor you want and take it out when you're done.

My driveway is sloped all the way up to the garage threshold. The garage is only 20' deep. I don't have very far to pull. I'm in the process of devising some kind of aluminum ramp system to keep the car level when it's pushed 1/2 to 3/4 of the way out of the garage.

I'll also need to push it fully out a few times so I can properly degrease and pressure wash the front end/firewall. The winch will be needed to get the car back inside, but again, it doesn't have to go very far.

Old pic illustrating driveway slope:

 

[ducktapeguy]

Out of curiosity I looked at the specs on the Warn Pullzall. That 15' of cable is actually only 13' of usable length. Plus the duty cycle at full load is only 3%, meaning you can run it 1 minute then you have to let it cool off for 30 minutes.

I don't know exactly what your application is, but this sound like you picked the wrong tool for the job. Looking at your picture and description, you'd have to push your car up the driveway almost to the threshold to even connect the pullzall, then use the pullzall to only pull it in halfway. If that's your intent, then you can disregard this advice.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

I don't know exactly what your application is, but this sound like you picked the wrong tool for the job. Looking at your picture and description, you'd have to push your car up the driveway almost to the threshold to even connect the pullzall, then use the pullzall to only pull it in halfway. If that's your intent, then you can disregard this advice.

The car is already in the garage without an engine. As described above, I don't have very far to pull. I'm in the process of devising some kind of aluminum ramp system to keep the car level when it's pushed partially out of the garage.

I'll also need to push it fully out a few times, but the front of the car will remain within a couple feet of the garage threshold. The winch will be needed to get the car back inside. It doesn't have to go very far.

Tipsy

 

[May Pop]

Here is the set up I use to get into the rear shop. 3x6 3/8 plate with a 5/8 loop welded to the plate. 4-3/8 drop anchors into the floor. One needs the hole in the plate opened as the anchor is a bit out of place. I put a large pulley on the loop and winch the dead vehicle in. If a helper is available I use a 50' cable with hooks on the ends and pull the dead car in with a running one. Your idea will work very well. The only drawback I see is the short cable. Being 120 volts means the battery wont die mid pull. So you have to add a strap or chain to complete the job. LOOKS GREAT!
When setting the anchors be sure there is no mortar or tile between the concrete and the item you decide to anchor. This will give the most strength.