Dry cut chop saw

[ATC]

I'm looking for a new saw. I currently have the Milwaukee abrasive chop saw (an upgrade from the 4.5" angle grinder), and I'm tired of the dust, the sparks, and the inaccurate cuts. I also want to be able to use it to cut other materials on occasion (PVC, wood...)

But I am torn between two models....the Makita LC1230 and the Evolution Evosaw380. I've watched Youtube reviews of both and they always have great reviews. I'm sure with my limited use as a hobby metalworker, either one will suit my needs just fine. The $100 cheaper price tag on the Evo is very appealing, but some part of me is still leaning towards the Makita (smaller blade = more accurate cuts, less motor stress, and it seems like the Makita has been around longer)

Help me choose Hoping for some Black Friday deals. Acme Tools had a veterans day sale that brought the Evo down to $309, and I came >< this close to pulling the trigger....but my phone didn't like the website and I wasn't near a computer in time to order.

 

[BroncoAZ]

Don’t buy MK Morse. I like the Makita for the smaller blade and the fact my Makita abrasive chop saw is still going strong after 20 years. The Evo seems fine.

 

[nimrag]

Ive had an evolution rage for 5-6 years. I know it’s not the model your looking at, but it’s the same brand. I was skeptical before I got it, but I am glad I did. I’ve made at least 1000 cuts and I am still impressed each time. I’ve never had any problem with it. It’s like using a miter saw on wood. It will take 1/16” off at a time, making perfectly straight cuts. I’ve only used it on mild steel, no other materials.

 

[az45]

I've had the EVO 15" for 3-4 years, I love it. Its easy to screw up a blade if you're not careful. Keep our abrasive available for a loaner.

 

[Cryptic1911]

Don’t buy MK Morse. I like the Makita for the smaller blade and the fact my Makita abrasive chop saw is still going strong after 20 years. The Evo seems fine.

Why not? I have the mk morse metal devil and it's a beast. Did they change?

 

[bradweingartner]

I can vouch for the Evolution as a brand *in general*. I've had a Rage 14" saw with cast iron base for ages now and I'm still on the original blade, which I can't even fathom. I attribute this largely to the design of the Rage blade which prevents you from taking too deep of a cut. It might not cut as fast as it could, but man it still cuts fast and clean to this day.

It has cut everything from wood to 3" thick steel bar.

I have a few complaints about it - the fence is a pain to adjust. The clamp has no quick release. Both these complaints are addressed on the new EVOSAW380.

The other complain is that it doesn't cut square vertically. This irritates me to this day as it's not something that can be adjusted due to the cast-in pivot. For a weldment this really isn't a big deal, it's not off THAT much. But it's something to check for immediately since the EVOSAW380 looks to also be non-adjustable/non-shimmable.

 

[BroncoAZ]

Why not? I have the mk morse metal devil and it's a beast. Did they change?

It may be a beast but I’ve never been able to run mine. The base on mine is so out of square the blade would cut the table and they want me to pay $120 to ship in to them to then be replaced with a refurbished saw.

 

[Cryptic1911]

ah that *****. Mine cuts nice and square. I bought it over the others since it had a cast base rather than stamped ones.

 

[BukitCase]

"But it's something to check for immediately since the EVOSAW380 looks to also be non-adjustable/non-shimmable"

Neither is true; in fact, that's ONE of the reasons I opted for the EVOSAW380 - it's the ONLY one in that price range I found that has the motor mount pylon as a SEPARATE, bolted on piece.

As it turned out, that was a better choice than I'd hoped - out of the box, NEITHER axis was true, and the radiused slot for angle adjustment wouldn't let it do an accurate 90 either -

I ended up putting the rear vise jaw on my rotary table and milling the radiused slot a couple more degrees; that still didn't work as well as I'd hoped, so...

I unbolted the pylon from the base, clamped the base down to the mill table, found a center cut end mill just a bit larger than the holes in the base - used ONE of the 4 holes "as is", used that as a pivot for a compass and marked the OTHER three holes' path for "relocation", enlarged each by 1/8" (in the same direction of rotation from stock)

That FINALLY made the "X" axis "true-able", saw STILL wouldn't cut true from top to bottom. Scribed a mark for correct position in the X axis, then cut (and punched) a few pieces of brass shim stock, ended up with .050" shims under the two left-side bolt holes.

Saw now cuts square in both dim's, it was a PITA but I'm probably happier than I woulda been if I'd had the SAME "luck" with a ONE PIECE base/pylon... Steve

 

[Ign]

Yeah these aren't what they're cracked up to be and blades will put you in the poor house.

No sparks, no dust, ability to cut multiple materials and NO NOISE = band saw. Plus comparatively blades are DIRT CHEAP and just about every aspect of a bandsaw is adjustable to square your cut.

Sorry for the inevitable derailment telling me how wrong I am.

 

[george4]

"But it's something to check for immediately since the EVOSAW380 looks to also be non-adjustable/non-shimmable"

Neither is true; in fact, that's ONE of the reasons I opted for the EVOSAW380 - it's the ONLY one in that price range I found that has the motor mount pylon as a SEPARATE, bolted on piece.

As it turned out, that was a better choice than I'd hoped - out of the box, NEITHER axis was true, and the radiused slot for angle adjustment wouldn't let it do an accurate 90 either -

I ended up putting the rear vise jaw on my rotary table and milling the radiused slot a couple more degrees; that still didn't work as well as I'd hoped, so...

I unbolted the pylon from the base, clamped the base down to the mill table, found a center cut end mill just a bit larger than the holes in the base - used ONE of the 4 holes "as is", used that as a pivot for a compass and marked the OTHER three holes' path for "relocation", enlarged each by 1/8" (in the same direction of rotation from stock)

That FINALLY made the "X" axis "true-able", saw STILL wouldn't cut true from top to bottom. Scribed a mark for correct position in the X axis, then cut (and punched) a few pieces of brass shim stock, ended up with .050" shims under the two left-side bolt holes.

Saw now cuts square in both dim's, it was a PITA but I'm probably happier than I woulda been if I'd had the SAME "luck" with a ONE PIECE base/pylon... Steve

Well done.

 

[ATC]

Yeah these aren't what they're cracked up to be and blades will put you in the poor house.

No sparks, no dust, ability to cut multiple materials and NO NOISE = band saw. Plus comparatively blades are DIRT CHEAP and just about every aspect of a bandsaw is adjustable to square your cut.

Sorry for the inevitable derailment telling me how wrong I am.

I hope a $46 blade every 5-10 years won't put me in the poor house...
I would love to have a band saw, but I don't have the room for one, don't want to deal with coolant, and they are a little out of my price range. If I get one, it won't be a HF unit...

 

[dr_clyde]

If you think you’ll get 5-10 years out of a blade you’re dreaming. The dull somewhat quickly. Obviously it depends on your useage, but I’d plan on a blade every couple of projects. They also loose teeth if you catch a part wrong or have any issues with the vise.

 

[rmack898]

OP, I've been where you are and I can tell you how I moved on.

I started with a 14" abrasive chop saw and only used it for a few months before looking to replace it for the same reasons you mentioned. I think that when I made the transition from the abrasive saw I looked at all the options.
I replaced it with a 5x6 import band saw. I bought a Jet saw as I thought it would work better out of the box than the HF saw. I was right and it did work great out of the box but after a few years of use and many tweaks to make it a better saw, I simply outgrew it. It was a great saw and I made tens of thousands of cuts with it. Good quality blades are inexpensive and overall it was a great saw.

I replaced my 5x6 with an 1800 Ellis band saw. My needs and use grew, and a bigger saw was required. The Ellis is a great saw but it is way past your current needs.

I have a Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw that can cut 3/4" plate. It turns at a high RPM with an expensive carbide blade that is easily damaged if you don't know how use the saw. Most of the "dry cut" saws you're considering work on the same high speed carbide blade principle. A true dry cut saw turns much slower, is much more ridgid and much more costly.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have went with a 5x6 band saw with the bow that rotates for angle cuts similar to this one from Grizzly https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-5-x-6-1-2-HP-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw-w-Swivel-Head/G9742

I don't have or have ever used this saw from Grizzly but it takes up little floor space and is on par quality wise with the Jet 5x6 that I did buy.

Just my 02 having been down the path you now walk.

 

[Steve_P]

I have the Morse and it's great. If you are concerned, buy on Amazon so you can return it if there are any issues.

 

[strength_and_power]

Yeah these aren't what they're cracked up to be and blades will put you in the poor house.

No sparks, no dust, ability to cut multiple materials and NO NOISE = band saw. Plus comparatively blades are DIRT CHEAP and just about every aspect of a bandsaw is adjustable to square your cut.

Sorry for the inevitable derailment telling me how wrong I am.

I agree with the above post.
In addition, dry cut saws are ridiculously loud and the metal chips get everywhere. Goggles, a grinding mask, ear protection, long sleeves and gloves at a minimum.
The heat of the cut goes into the chip and they always seem to find exposed skin. The chips are also curled and can “screw” themselves in to shoes and clothing.
Rearrange the shop to fit a band saw and don’t look back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ATC]

If you think you’ll get 5-10 years out of a blade you’re dreaming. The dull somewhat quickly. Obviously it depends on your useage, but I’d plan on a blade every couple of projects. They also loose teeth if you catch a part wrong or have any issues with the vise.

I think you are underestimating just how little I use a saw, and how few projects I get to do. If all the reviews on here from people getting "a thousand cuts" from a blade...then I sure could hit my time estimation. I have a trailer rebuild coming up I want to tackle next year.

 

[ATC]

OP, I've been where you are and I can tell you how I moved on.

Just my 02 having been down the path you now walk.

Thanks for sharing. I really wish I could fit a bandsaw somewhere in my shop, but I can't. My workspace is actually a metal patio table in front of the garage.

 

[yatg]

A few years ago I picked up a Makita LC1230 new in the box off craigslist for $300. I don't use it a lot, but its 1000% better than a fiber blade chopsaw.

If you want to cut wood or PVC, get a cheap miter saw for that. The RPM on the Makita is 1700 vs approx 3400 for a miter saw.

 

[shawhite]

They make bench top band saws that would fit your needs.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782XL_Benchtop_Mitering_Bandsaw_F_782XL_000_00_0_000_2209

 

[zkling]

They make bench top band saws that would fit your needs.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782XL_Benchtop_Mitering_Bandsaw_F_782XL_000_00_0_000_2209

I own one of those. The dry cut will get a slightly flatter cut, but the band saw will excel at cutting solid stock and hardened material vs the dry cut which is more tube and fab type work geared.

 

[seanc_mt]

I'll never go back to a chop saw after having a band saw. Just the ability to start the cut and walk away and continue a project is a MASSIVE time saver. And the mess is confined to a 12"x12" area.

 

[ATC]

They make bench top band saws that would fit your needs.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782XL_Benchtop_Mitering_Bandsaw_F_782XL_000_00_0_000_2209

While interesting...if I was going to spend over $500 on a bandsaw, it will be a "full size" unit.

 

[platypus20]

I have a Rockwell/delta vertical bandsaw, 2 drop cut bandsaws (Jet and HEM saw), a Wilton wet cut saw, a Keller reciprocating hacksaw, a 14” Milwaukee dry cut saw. The HEM saw and the dry cut saw gets most of the daily use. The dry cut blade lasts about 1-2 months of constant use and cost about $20-$25, to have it resharpened. It would be the hardest saw in the shop to be without.


I also have a 14” Milwaukee abrasive cutoff saw, it has not been out of its box, for about 15 years, too dirty to use.

 

[Kev In]

I have a Rigid abrasive saw, but they are not accurate and they smell up your shop. I no longer use it.

I have the Makita dry cut saw and I have made thousands of cuts with it. I did buy Makita blades in the beginning, but quickly found out that with quality blades, I can have them re-sharpened. Good quality metal blades work the best and the blades last longer. These dry cut saws cut metal way faster than a band saw, and I need the speed and quality of the cut. I also cut a lot of aluminum bar too. I have worn out the screw and jam nut due to use. These are noisy, but wear good ear protection, eye protection, long sleeve shirts and sweep the floor often.

I have a Milwaukee portaband in a swag stand. It works ok, but slow and noisy.

I would buy the dry saw again based on performance, cut quality and speed of the cuts.

I wish they would make these saws with a proper quality vice and base vs these stamped out bases.

 

[m32825]

This thread is going to cost me some money. If anyone has a lead on a good deal for an Evosaw380 post it up. Amazon is around $370 right now, up from $350 a couple weeks ago. Not much of a Black Friday deal...

-- Carl

 

[Antoin]

I have the Evolution Rage 255mm sliding compound mitre saw.
Bought it as I do a bit of joinery and also metalwork so I thought il get a jack of all trades.

IMO it is just ok. It really is ok at metal and ok at wood. It isn't accurate enough on wood for any finishing joinery I would be doing (partly down to operator error possibly).
I've lost a tooth off the blade when cutting angle iron (again possibly operator error).
It doesn't leave a good finish on the wood.

For the money it would have cost me to buy a dedicated wood mitre saw and a metal chopsaw I am happy enough with the Evo.

 

[m32825]

Evosaw380 is on Amazon for just under $340 plus tax, free shipping.

 

[creativecars]

I have been pondering the same thing for a while.
I was considering this build

as I think it looks like a heck of a tool that I would like.
I may end up building one someday, but for now, I pulled the trigger on the EVOSAW380. It should be here tomorrow.

 

[BroncoAZ]

Evosaw380 is on Amazon for just under $340 plus tax, free shipping.

That price is the lowest ever on camel camel camel. I had some Amazon credit, so I pulled the trigger on this Evo saw today. My out of pocket is $215 shipped.

I’ll sell my crooked brand new MK Morse saw for super cheap on Craigslist or something with the issue disclosed, or part out the motor on eBay and trash the base. I thought about ordering a new MK Morse off Amazon and returning the damaged one, but it isn’t worth the hassle and isn’t honest. I think I paid $380 for the MK with an eBay coupon, so figure $120 for the blade and $120 for return shipping and I’m only out $140 on their ****** product rather than sending this one back for a refurbished that may have the same crooked base problem.

 

[BroncoAZ]

Evosaw380 is on Amazon for just under $340 plus tax, free shipping.

Price is back up to $420 today, glad I grabbed one last night.

 

[m32825]

Price is back up to $420 today, glad I grabbed one last night.

Wow, that's odd. Usually when I buy something it guarantees a price drop for everyone else, not this time!

 

[Speedbird]

I got in last night also.

 

[tarbellb]

While interesting...if I was going to spend over $500 on a bandsaw, it will be a "full size" unit.

Dont underestimate those benchtop bandsaws, Femi are nice Italian made units.

There is also the Northern Tools knock-off version that does ok-
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200660083_200660083

Personally I like my dry cut, ive tried just about all of them now. My favorite so far is a the Hitachi unicorn I found, but the Evo 14" Metal only saw is excellent for the cost, and the MK / Fein are supposed to be nice (except AZ's....: )

For your casual use, I would seriously consider the bandsaw, only takes one bad cut to ruin those dry cut blades.