Dry Cut Metal Chop Saw

[Deadsquiggles]

So I’m looking around for a dry cut metal saw. I don’t want an abusive saw, I can’t really afford a quality band saw which I don’t have space for anyway, and I hate cutting larger material with a grinder. I do want to stay with a more well known brand so I was looking at the Evolution R355CPS. On Evolution’s website, it states that it’s a multi material saw, but with the stock blade, it’ll cut up to 1/4” mild steel which is the same that the more expensive S355CPSL is rated for. The biggest difference I find on their website is that the S355CPSL has a blurb about being rated for 13/64” max for stainless steel whereas there’s no rating for the R355CPS. Both motors are rated for 1450rpm and 15A. Would I be giving up anything to go with the the R355CPS instead of spending an extra $150 on the S355CPSL?

 

[theoldwizard1]

You have a couple of options.

If you are just cutting aluminum, a table saw and a good carbide tooth blade is fine.

Get a portable metal band saw and a stand. The stand is not big and the throat is not deep so cutting large pieces of metal is out of the question.

Get a metal cutting circular saw. Milwaukee makes a couple different models, both corded and cordless. They will cut 1/2" steel (there is a YouTube video with a guys cutting thicker metal than that). The Milwaukee blade is good, but the Diablo Steel Demon blades are better. This is hand held so don't expect a perfect cut.

For thin metal, you can not beat a nibbler ! Again, hand held so no perfectly straight cuts.

The best solution was what another guy on YouTube did. Start with a compound miter saw. Replace the motor with a 1 hp 3 phase motor. Use an electronic 3 phase motor controller to control the speed.


If you have large pieces that need to be cut very straight, find a shop with a large power sheer or band saw.

 

[BTL-A4]

Coupla questions:

1. Why don't you want an abrasive saw?
2. What are you going to cut?
3. Are you a pro or a weekend warrior?

I have a Swag Offroad portaband table that has worked really well. I got a portable bandsaw on CL for $150 to attach to it. I can cut everything a chop saw can and more.

I also have a HF small abrasive chop saw that is a little too small, but has worked for most of what I've needed it for, which was thin gauge metal u-channel that I wanted to cut straight.

There's a few threads on here about metal cutting saws and they all mention that the blades cut fine, but the chips are hot and the machines howl like a banshee, so proper clothing (long sleeves) and PPE (goggles, face mask, gloves, hearing protection) are a must.

 

[VR6ix]

At a glance, the more expensive SPSL has tool-free mitre jaw adjustment, the quick-release on the vice screw, and the better blade. There's nothing stopping you from buying the CPS and then putting the better blade on it down the road if you want to save some money and don't need those other features and don't need to cut anything harder than mild steel until the first blade finally goes dull.

I'm in Canada and seeing a $33 ($26USD) difference between those blades in the 14" version on Amazon. I'm not seeing the value for $150USD to get the CPSL unless you plan on running a lot of cuts (that quick release is nice) and a lot of mitres (but you can make your own tool-free mitre handle).

Hope that helps. My last job was a dumster-fire of a business but I did talk them into buying an Evo saw for the prototype guy so he didn't have to wait for an opening on the production Hydmech bandsaws. If you have the money for a saw like this you'll love how fast and easy and ACCURATE they cut!

 

[Deadsquiggles]

You have a couple of options.

If you are just cutting aluminum, a table saw and a good carbide tooth blade is fine.

Get a portable metal band saw and a stand. The stand is not big and the throat is not deep so cutting large pieces of metal is out of the question.

Get a metal cutting circular saw. Milwaukee makes a couple different models, both corded and cordless. They will cut 1/2" steel (there is a YouTube video with a guys cutting thicker metal than that). The Milwaukee blade is good, but the Diablo Steel Demon blades are better. This is hand held so don't expect a perfect cut.

For thin metal, you can not beat a nibbler ! Again, hand held so no perfectly straight cuts.

The best solution was what another guy on YouTube did. Start with a compound miter saw. Replace the motor with a 1 hp 3 phase motor. Use an electronic 3 phase motor controller to control the speed.


If you have large pieces that need to be cut very straight, find a shop with a large power sheer or band saw.

So I’ll mainly be cutting mild steel and potentially stainless later down the road. As far as a compound miter saw, and then swapping the motor and blade puts me well over the cost a metal cutting saw up front. I know for my uses, a chop saw is the best option. Easier to store, portable stands for them. I didn’t know if anyone had used the R355CPS as a dedicated metal cutting saw compared to the more expensive offerings from there companies like Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee and Fein.

Coupla questions:

1. Why don't you want an abrasive saw?
2. What are you going to cut?
3. Are you a pro or a weekend warrior?

I have a Swag Offroad portaband table that has worked really well. I got a portable bandsaw on CL for $150 to attach to it. I can cut everything a chop saw can and more.

I also have a HF small abrasive chop saw that is a little too small, but has worked for most of what I've needed it for, which was thin gauge metal u-channel that I wanted to cut straight.

There's a few threads on here about metal cutting saws and they all mention that the blades cut fine, but the chips are hot and the machines howl like a banshee, so proper clothing (long sleeves) and PPE (goggles, face mask, gloves, hearing protection) are a must.

So it’ll be mainly mild steel, and potentially stainless layer down the road. I’m not a fan of the abrasive saws due to the speed of the cut as well as the amount of cleanup sometimes required after making a cut. And I’m definitely more of a weekend warrior, hence why I’m trying to stay on the cheaper side of dry cut saws. The PPE requirements don’t really bother me since just about every time I’d use the saw, I’d be welding not long after so I’m already gonna be wearing long sleeves on, glasses and so on. The loudness doesn’t bother me since just about every saw besides a bandsaw is loud when cutting metal.

At a glance, the more expensive SPSL has tool-free mitre jaw adjustment, the quick-release on the vice screw, and the better blade. There's nothing stopping you from buying the CPS and then putting the better blade on it down the road if you want to save some money and don't need those other features and don't need to cut anything harder than mild steel until the first blade finally goes dull.

I'm in Canada and seeing a $33 ($26USD) difference between those blades in the 14" version on Amazon. I'm not seeing the value for $150USD to get the CPSL unless you plan on running a lot of cuts (that quick release is nice) and a lot of mitres (but you can make your own tool-free mitre handle).

Hope that helps. My last job was a dumster-fire of a business but I did talk them into buying an Evo saw for the prototype guy so he didn't have to wait for an opening on the production Hydmech bandsaws. If you have the money for a saw like this you'll love how fast and easy and ACCURATE they cut!

This is definitely the info I was looking for. The blade doesn’t really bother cause I’m not gonna be making a bunch of cuts in a short amount of time. By the time I do, the saw will have almost paid for itself and I’d have no problem springing for the true metal cutting blade.

 

[Renegade1LI]

You might want to consider the hemsaw 782 XL or the Trajan 125, I think both have a table available to use vertically.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

You might want to consider the hemsaw 782 XL or the Trajan 125, I think both have a table available to use vertically.

I guess I could’ve mentioned it before but I’m trying to stay around the $300 range if possible, maybe $350. Which I’m starting to lean towards the $350 range for the S355CPSL since the R355CPS is OOS everywhere.

 

[GeoBruin]

I have the Evo saw. I'm not sure of the model number but it's the one with the stamped sheet metal base that comes with the "multipurpose" blade. I now have the dedicated steel blade as well. For context, I also have a portable bandsaw on a Swag table.

Simply put, the Evo saw is invaluable. It punches way above its weight in terms of value. You can make crazy accurate cuts quickly with a saw that can be put way on a shelf. I actually found the "multipurpose" blade that came with the saw to cut steel really well but I knew I had a lot of steel to cut so I got the steel blade to save the other blade for aluminum. Apparently the shape of the teeth on the multipurpose blade help keep them from getting clogged with aluminum.

Anyway, the portaband on the SWAG table is also an incredibly useful tool but it simply doesn't compare to the Evo saw for accuracy and repeatability. I bought an incra miter gauge thinking I could make accurate miter cuts on the band saw but there's just too much play in the blade. It's so much easier (and quicker) to clamp something in the Evo saw and once your angle is set, you can just keep making cuts.

The worst part about the saw is the base. I think they used to come with a cast base but they switched to the sheet metal base and it does not inspire confidence. If the more expensive version has the cast base, it might be worth your money.

Anyway, as a hobbyist, for rod, bar, tube, and pipe, I wouldnt trade the Evo saw for anything.

 

[toolin' around]

Everything GeoBruin said!

I have the Evo saw, an abrasive chop saw, a HF horizontal hacksaw, which I also made a heavy duty vertical table for, and a portaband with a Swag table... I go to the Evo every time.

You won’t go wrong.

 

[tarbellb]

I've owned or used about every dry cut saw on the market.

If shopping Evo, which I think is a excellent saw for the price...

ONLY LOOK AT the Evosaw380.

The multi material saws are a compromise, 380 is built way beefier.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Evolution-Power-Tools-14-in-Steel-Cutting-Chop-Saw-EVOSAW380/204302724

 

[MushCreek]

Will these saws work for solid stock, or are they just for shapes like angle, channel, and tubing?

 

[slodat]

I have had the Milwaukee dry cut saw for about 13 years. I use it often. As others say, these dry cut saws are loud, the chips are hot and go everywhere AND the cuts are clean and burr free. I've used the Diablo blades with great success. Some tips - you must clamp the material very well. If it's loose at all, you're going to lose teeth on the blade or worse. Let the blade do the cutting.. For real!

I've seen mention of people knowing why Milwaukee stopped making the saw I have on here. I don't know the story. I've been happy with it. I rotate through three blades on my saw. I take two to the sharpener at a time. The Diablo blades have been sharpened several times. And they can replace teeth if the blade is not bent.

The Makita 12" dry cut saw has a very nice looking cast aluminum base. My only real criticism of my saw is the clamp could be more sturdy. I can knock the cut out of square if I clamp down too tight.

 

[slodat]

Will these saws work for solid stock, or are they just for shapes like angle, channel, and tubing?

I've cut all of the shapes with mine with good success.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

Well I might have to up my budget and go for the spendier Evo, which is still cheaper than comparable brands

 

[bdbecker]

This is a tough one... the street price of a R355CPS is $230. I think it all comes down to whether or not the quick release clamp and toolless miter adjustment you get with the S355CPSL worth the extra $100? If not, I wouldn't buy the S355CPSL just because the R355CPS is out of stock. You've managed to get by so far without it, what is another month or two? If those features are important to you, it does get a little fuzzy because the beefier S380CPS is only $50 more than the S355CPSL.

Any of those saws would be a good choice... I'm glad I'm not in your shoes on this one...

 

[GeoBruin]

This is a tough one... the street price of a R355CPS is $230. I think it all comes down to whether or not the quick release clamp and toolless miter adjustment you get with the S355CPSL worth the extra $100? If not, I wouldn't buy the S355CPSL just because the R355CPS is out of stock. You've managed to get by so far without it, what is another month or two? If those features are important to you, it does get a little fuzzy because the beefier S380CPS is only $50 more than the S355CPSL.

Any of those saws would be a good choice... I'm glad I'm not in your shoes on this one...

I swear I'm not just trying to get OP to spend more money (I generally dislike the constant pressure to "go big or go home" I see on this forum) however, in addition to the beefier base (which was my biggest complaint abou the cheaper Evo saw) the quick release clamp and tooless miter adjustment are both features I would kill for. I cut a lot of 2" square tube and unless I do a lot of planning, I find myself screwing that clamp out constantly to accommodate a miter cut and then screwing it back in for a straight cut. It takes forever!

The miter adjustment doesn't take as long but you have to keep track of that Allen wrench. I'm at the point where I robbed one from a cheap set and keep it stuck to the saw.

 

[BukitCase]

I have the original evosaw 380, if you act quick you can still find one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TX1UPO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Looks like they've slightly degraded that version with the newer Evolution S380CPS (only thing I noticed was a different handle on the quick release vise)

The originals had the cast aluminum base with steel insert and vise - some of the others mentioned in this thread cheapened the base (stamped steel base)

They're touting the newer Evolution S380CPS as "improved"; whatever, it's also about $100 more expensive than the original evosaw 380. The newer vise handle looks wimpier to me, might not be.

Best of luck, I'm just glad I got mine BEFORE the confusion got any worse... Steve

 

[Deadsquiggles]

Yeah so based on what’s in stock and features, it’ll end up coming down to the S355CPSL and the S380CPS.

 

[BukitCase]

Yup, there were three in stock when I posted that - hence the "act quick" comment... Steve

 

[Notgrownup]

So are you guys using the blades that are like cutoff wheels or the high dollar Steel blades. Will the cutoff type work ok for occasional use, light use?

 

[GeoBruin]

So are you guys using the blades that are like cutoff wheels or the high dollar Steel blades. Will the cutoff type work ok for occasional use, light use?

It's really apples and oranges. Yes chop saws work. That's why they're so prevalent. But the quality of the cut, the mess they produce, and the heat they generate make them less desirable (to me) than a dry cut saw like we're discussing here. Also, I'm not sure how it would work to run an abrasive blade at lower RPM like these saws typically run. Maybe someone else can comment.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

It's really apples and oranges. Yes chop saws work. That's why they're so prevalent. But the quality of the cut, the mess they produce, and the heat they generate make them less desirable (to me) than a dry cut saw like we're discussing here. Also, I'm not sure how it would work to run an abrasive blade at lower RPM like these saws typically run. Maybe someone else can comment.

This is the main reason I personally am choosing to buy a dry cut saw over an abrasive saw. Just for the simple fact that there’s almost no dust is enough of a reason. Plus the chips are easier to contain and clean up compared to grinding dust.

 

[MushCreek]

I still haven't been able to find out if they are appropriate for solid stock. For instance, I have a bar of 1X4 hot rolled. Solid, not tube. Anyone ever tried to cut something like that with one of these saws? I use a lot of solid stock cutting stuff down for mill projects.

 

[PhantomEB]

Following.

On my last abrasive blade on the chop saw so will be switching blade choices when this time comes.

One of the other plans as stated above will be a portaband swag stand with Milwaukee ***********.

 

[Notgrownup]

So the metal style blades just produce metal shavings and the cutoff abrasive wheels creat more dust like my angle grinder right? I am looking at adding something to cut steel. I might look at a band saw as well.
It tell you.the help I get here from all you smartasses , oops! I mean smart guys is invaluable...lol
This is a great place.
Happy new year

 

[bdbecker]

I still haven't been able to find out if they are appropriate for solid stock. For instance, I have a bar of 1X4 hot rolled. Solid, not tube. Anyone ever tried to cut something like that with one of these saws? I use a lot of solid stock cutting stuff down for mill projects.

The max rated steel plate thickness for the S380CPS is 1/2".

https://store.evolutionpowertools.com/products/s380cps#cutting-capacities

I'm guessing this capacity is a function of how many teeth on the blade are engaging the material and whether or not the motor can handle the load. My Rage 3 (discontinued) supposedly has a max steel thickness of 1/4". I have cut thicker when needed, but I also take my time. If you do a lot of solid stock, a bandsaw would probably be a better option.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782XL_Benchtop_Mitering_Bandsaw_F_782XL_000_00_0_000_2209

 

[GeoBruin]

I still haven't been able to find out if they are appropriate for solid stock. For instance, I have a bar of 1X4 hot rolled. Solid, not tube. Anyone ever tried to cut something like that with one of these saws? I use a lot of solid stock cutting stuff down for mill projects.

I wouldn't recommend trying to cut plate that thick. You could probably do it if you went slowly and put it in the vise vertically (assuming it fits) but I'm able to bog down the blade on much less than that.

 

[MushCreek]

Thanks for the feedback. I have a huge Kalamazoo horizontal bandsaw (24" capacity) that I want to sell for something smaller. Doesn't sound like a dry cut saw is the answer, so I guess I'll keep looking for a decent-quality smaller bandsaw. I tried one of the HF small saws, and despite putting a lot of work into it, it was still a POS.

 

[slodat]

I've used my dry cut saw to cut 4" square 6061 solid. Just take your time and let the saw do the work. I think the most solid steel stock I've cut is 1" x 2" flat bar.

 

[BD1]

I had a Evolution saw years ago before they made major improvements. I had to shim the saw to get square cuts.
I have portabands, chop saw, Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw, and bandsaws. My original Harbor Freight 4x6 is still going after 10 plus years. I recently replaced the motor. I upgraded to a ELLIS 1600 swivel head miter saw.
I prefer the bandsaw of a power miter saw.
You can set material in bandsaw, start cut, and do something else nearby.
The miter saw can chip teeth and blade replacement is not cheap.
As mentioned I would recommend a swivel head bandsaw over the miter.
Shop for best price. Check with manufacturer for their prices.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782XL_Benchtop_Mitering_Bandsaw_F_782XL_000_00_0_000_2209


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tarbellb]

I have had the Milwaukee dry cut saw for about 13 years. I use it often. As others say, these dry cut saws are loud, the chips are hot and go everywhere AND the cuts are clean and burr free. I've used the Diablo blades with great success. Some tips - you must clamp the material very well. If it's loose at all, you're going to lose teeth on the blade or worse. Let the blade do the cutting.. For real!

I've seen mention of people knowing why Milwaukee stopped making the saw I have on here. I don't know the story. I've been happy with it. I rotate through three blades on my saw. I take two to the sharpener at a time. The Diablo blades have been sharpened several times. And they can replace teeth if the blade is not bent.

The Makita 12" dry cut saw has a very nice looking cast aluminum base. My only real criticism of my saw is the clamp could be more sturdy. I can knock the cut out of square if I clamp down too tight.

I have the original evosaw 380, if you act quick you can still find one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TX1UPO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Looks like they've slightly degraded that version with the newer Evolution S380CPS (only thing I noticed was a different handle on the quick release vise)

The originals had the cast aluminum base with steel insert and vise - some of the others mentioned in this thread cheapened the base (stamped steel base)

They're touting the newer Evolution S380CPS as "improved"; whatever, it's also about $100 more expensive than the original evosaw 380. The newer vise handle looks wimpier to me, might not be.

Best of luck, I'm just glad I got mine BEFORE the confusion got any worse... Steve

Both these guys are totally on point, great information.

Agreed, a better base improves both cut quality and miter cuts.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

So are you guys using the blades that are like cutoff wheels or the high dollar Steel blades. Will the cutoff type work ok for occasional use, light use?

So the big abrasive wheels similar to a grinders cut off wheel requires more RPM, around 3000-3500rpm IIRC. The dry cut saws run around 1400-1500rpm and use the fancy metal blades. Even though the blades are more expensive, they last longer. I remember at my old job, we had the old Dewalt chop saw with the abrasive cut off wheel, and it seemed like we were constantly replacing the wheels. I hated using that old raggedy thing. I think that’s the main reason I’m looking at one of the dry cut saws.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

So I ended up going with the S355CPSL. It seemed to be the best balance of performance, features, and cost. It should be here mid January. Hopefully I’ll get to try it soon after.

 

[MEngineer]

I just picked up one of these (I know this is an old thread but I thought the basic 380 with the good frame was a thing of the past). https://www.homedepot.com/p/Evolution-Power-Tools-14-in-Steel-Cutting-Chop-Saw-EVOSAW380/204302724

I was happy with the price, the base is cast aluminum with the steel insert and the saw cuts. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.

 

[BukitCase]

ME, that surprises me too - I thought they'd be long gone by now - one of the reasons I went with that saw is that it's the only one I found where the "pylon" the saw motor mounts to, is a SEPARATE piece - Knowing enough about today's manufacturing, I was concerned about one of the fixed (one piece base/pylon) mount not being true (I'm a picky *******)

Turned out my concern was JUSTIFIED - my 380 did NOT cut true in EITHER axis. If you find that to be the case on YOUR 380, let me know; I have a few pics of what I did, now my saw cuts dead on in BOTH axes.

Hint - the fix involves "moving" 3 of the 4 pylon mounting holes AND playing with a bit of shim stock, PLUS a few tries to get it right... Steve

I just noticed that they do NOT show the V block adapter in any of the pics; it was INCLUDED with mine, and EVO recommends it for square tube - their claim for blade life is based on using one, hopefully yours came with it??!?

 

[tarbellb]

ME, that surprises me too - I thought they'd be long gone by now - one of the reasons I went with that saw is that it's the only one I found where the "pylon" the saw motor mounts to, is a SEPARATE piece - Knowing enough about today's manufacturing, I was concerned about one of the fixed (one piece base/pylon) mount not being true (I'm a picky *******)

Turned out my concern was JUSTIFIED - my 380 did NOT cut true in EITHER axis. If you find that to be the case on YOUR 380, let me know; I have a few pics of what I did, now my saw cuts dead on in BOTH axes.

Hint - the fix involves "moving" 3 of the 4 pylon mounting holes AND playing with a bit of shim stock, PLUS a few tries to get it right... Steve

I just noticed that they do NOT show the V block adapter in any of the pics; it was INCLUDED with mine, and EVO recommends it for square tube - their claim for blade life is based on using one, hopefully yours came with it??!?

I would like to see your fix.

Ive also been concerned that many chop saws dont offer a adjustment to true the plunge/vertical action.

 

[BukitCase]

Tarbell, I went looking thru all the places/memory cards I have pics on, and discovered that I'm not quite finished getting all of it organized; naturally, the 3 or 4 I took when modding my saw are among the missing. And since the second part of truing up (blade not being perpendicular to the table surface) was kind of a PITA, I'll try to explain the changes, in the order I did them...

First was what I would refer to as "miter" angle - as in, with miter gauge set to 0* the cut angle was not square from front to back -
The motor mount ( pylon) bolts to the base with 4 bolts, plus IIRC there's a couple of hidden screws that also need to come off - Looking at the saw from the front (where the vise tightener is) I left the right rear bolt in place, but loose - then I set the vise angle setting exactly to zero, and wiggled the motor/blade part around until I got the fixed vise jaw and the saw blade square, using a medium size machinist's square - did my best to hold things steady at that point, then a small dentist type mirror let me see how far off the other three holes were.

Then I "moved" the other three holes radially (centered on the "pivot" bolt hole) that operation required completely removing the base from the pylon/motor/blade, putting a center cut milling cutter in my mill and locking a bolt in the table (T slot) for the pivot hole to center on - then I would change x-y of the table to position the cutter directly in each "movable" hole, lower the cutter and pivot the saw's table in the direction that needed shifted -

Sounds awkward, but that part of the saw table is aluminum so it doesn't take much - using the bolt thru the NON-relocated hole and then just moving the xy axis so each cut STARTED where the original hole was, ensured that all 3 of the relocatied holes were the same distance from the pivot hole as they were BEFORE the operation, but rotated slightly...

Once the hole pattern was rotated slightly, the bolts got replaced and snugged slightly, then the machinist square check/adjust, then it was time to align the top to bottom cut angle - I made a 0* cut on a piece of 2" square tube, and checked top to bottom with the machinist square and measured the top-bottom gap with the digital caliper - IIRC, the 2" tube was off by around .020, and since the pylon base is about 6" (again, memory?) my 'Kentucky windage" came out to around .060" difference from left to right - I think I ended up with 3 or 4 different thicknesses of brass shim stock to get it right.

Of course, that method (for lack of a better term) meant that I had to re-check the front to back square again, but the second time's almost ALWAYS easier :=)

BTW, just punching round holes in the shim stock makes reassembly a PITA; so I punched the holes where necessary, then used a chassis nibbler to open the holes on one side of the shim strips - Much easier to just loosen bolts, swap shim strip, tighten, check, repeat til it's right.

I was tempted to just say "FIRI" (second half of that acronym means RunIt :=) - but Evolution includes a slip-on V block and their claim of 1000 cuts per blade ( square tube) is based on its use - Doing that causes any error in the setup to affect BOTH axes of the tube, so I found a crappy rainy day and found somethin' DRY to work on...

Sorry 'bout the long-winded explanation, if/when I find the pics I'll post back... Steve

 

[tarbellb]

Tarbell,

First was what I would refer to as "miter" angle - as in, with miter gauge set to 0* the cut angle was not square from front to back -
The motor mount ( pylon) bolts to the base with 4 bolts, plus IIRC there's a couple of hidden screws that also need to come off - Looking at the .....


Sorry 'bout the long-winded explanation, if/when I find the pics I'll post back... Steve

I appreciate the post and explanation. I suppose we should give the mfg credit for pumping out millions of units that are spot on or close enough for the average user too not notice (or care?).

But besides your method of shimming out the motor/blade assembly what a joke for adjustment, doesnt seem that hard to design a minor angle adjuster?

My Evo 380 came with the v-block, I assumed it was only for round stock. But like most cutting methods if you can go in at a angle opposed to cutting large sections of wall at the same time you net better results and cooler cutting.

 

[BukitCase]

"But besides your method of shimming out the motor/blade assembly what a joke for adjustment, doesnt seem that hard to design a minor angle adjuster?"

Yup, IMO the front/back could've been solved by just making 3 of the 4 bolt holes larger (as I did) - factory setup would be as simple as an alignment jig; lock jig in place, tighten bolts -

The top/bottom setting could've been just as easy; saw pivots on a shaft, simply make at least ONE of the shaft ends with an eccentric bushing (and maybe a set screw to lock the bushing rotation in the pylon) -

Scratch that, just realized that an eccentric would ALSO mess up the OTHER axis - guess that one would need something like a pair of "elevation screws" at one end of the pylon - adjust "E" screws to suit, then lock with the 4 existing screws...

In all fairness, "monday morning quarterbacking" is almost ALWAYS easier than designing it right (and cheaper to manufacture) - I chose the 380 because it was the ONLY saw in its price range that at least COULD be fixed if it was NOT true; beats the OTHER option of sending back a few of the other saws til you finally get a "wednesday" saw instead of a monday or friday one

'nuther thought - if your saw is off (in EITHER axis) and you do as much square tube (or angle, for that matter) as I do, you can NEVER get max blade life (V block) AND hassle free geometry - having to "tack + check" multiple times to get a square joint is a slow PITA, and at $100 a pop for blades, being able to cut 90's (in BOTH axes) WITH the V block is worth about twice the blade life... Steve