Looking at buying a less expensive dry cut saw. The Evolution saws seem to get decent overall reviews. I was wondering what the feedback and preferences are between the 14" Rage2 (more of a chop saw) vs the 10" Rage3 being a sliding compound miter saw. Are there folks here that have gone with the Rage2 and Rage3 that could offer a comparative view? The Rage3 isn't that much more money, but is the build quality OK? I have searched and found several threads on dry cut saws and comments on the Rage2, but not much on the Rage3. Any of you that have the Rage2 that (in retrospect) rather have the Rage3 or vice versa?
Dry Cut Saw = Rage2 vs. Rage3
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Superbec
Well-known member
I bought a rage3 in anticipation of some new to me wood working projects.
I was a metal worker-weldor most of my life, this thing feels like a toy to me, I didn't used it yet but I'm not having high hopes.
I was a metal worker-weldor most of my life, this thing feels like a toy to me, I didn't used it yet but I'm not having high hopes.
Thanks for your replies. I would just be using it for hobby use, so it doesn't have to be bullet proof. I will be interested to hear your after-use feedback Superbec. I will also try and find info on the Evosaw380.....I think that was also called the Raptor(?). Anyone else?
spend a little more and get the Evosaw380.... rage 2 cuts really good when the blades are new... you can easily damage the blades and they cost a lot... cuts ****** after maybe the first 100 cut or less. and the clamping system ***** on the rage 2.... It is really loud like a cheap motor.... It does cut very clean squared on the first few cuts... Also you can't cut thin metal if you can't clamp them down... or odd shape objects that you can't clamp down.
The Evosaw380 is from the same company uses the same blades as rage 2, but supposedly better motor, and clamp... but probably the same issue with not able to cut thinner slices and odd shape stuff you can't clamp down.... If I know then what I know now I would have just gone for the porta band and a regular decent abrasive blade chop saw.
The Evosaw380 is from the same company uses the same blades as rage 2, but supposedly better motor, and clamp... but probably the same issue with not able to cut thinner slices and odd shape stuff you can't clamp down.... If I know then what I know now I would have just gone for the porta band and a regular decent abrasive blade chop saw.
yes Evosaw380 used to call raptor, with a ****** clamp as the rage 2. seems like they made a few improvement and re-name the product line.
LandofRath
Well-known member
I have been tempted by the rage 3 for cutting 45's and the clamping system would not be hard to improve. I had someone tell me they make a metal only blade with more teeth that does much better than the blade that comes with the machine. Its not a bag loss at the low price point especially with the mostly decent reviews out there.
I've used my dads 380 several times. I'm ready to put my abrasive saw on Craig's list! no comparison. Those complaining about these saws need to keep the price point in mind. Perhaps you would like to buy a Dake or Scotchman instead for 10 times the money? These saws are awesome for the price and 100 times better than an abrasive saw. Less mess, NO SPARKS, much faster and straighter cuts. I have a metabo handheld circular metal saw which I use very rarely.... I'd much rather have a 380. Hope that helps.
That's an apples to oranges comparison. Those true cold saws use a different technology more akin to a milling or slotting operation, very slow speed.
I'm aware they are different operations, but they both achieve the same goal -- cutting metal. My point was not that he should buy a cold saw, but that all of those above complaining about the Evo saws need to keep in mind what this saw costs! A good mitering vise sells for more than the saw we are talking about does
. Just wanted to keep that in perspective when judging the tool.I havent used the 10" Evo 3, but I have a very good idea of the experience.
After owning several brands of dry cut saws, and doing lots of wood work with a standard 10" sliding miter saw, I am weary of the "combo" compromise.
If you are serious about cutting metal in a accurate, safe, repeatable fashion then invest in a dedicated machine. Options are a 14" dry cut or a bandsaw, both have their +/-, covered in depth in many threads here.
Personally I would invest in a cheap 10/12" wood miter saw, easy to find off CL or reconditioned. And then spend a little extra and get a dedicated metal machine, either a 14" dry cut or bandsaw.
Good luck.
After owning several brands of dry cut saws, and doing lots of wood work with a standard 10" sliding miter saw, I am weary of the "combo" compromise.
If you are serious about cutting metal in a accurate, safe, repeatable fashion then invest in a dedicated machine. Options are a 14" dry cut or a bandsaw, both have their +/-, covered in depth in many threads here.
Personally I would invest in a cheap 10/12" wood miter saw, easy to find off CL or reconditioned. And then spend a little extra and get a dedicated metal machine, either a 14" dry cut or bandsaw.
Good luck.
I'm aware they are different operations, but they both achieve the same goal -- cutting metal. My point was not that he should buy a cold saw, but that all of those above complaining about the Evo saws need to keep in mind what this saw costs! A good mitering vise sells for more than the saw we are talking about does
Not really. I bought it as a hobbyist saw also, I used to advocate and justify for buying this with the same reasoning as you. they are cheaper than the real deals, and should expect some flaws...... well those flaws really hinder the usefulness of the saw... and especially as a hobbyist saw... functionality and versatility wise is more important. This saw does not offer much more advantage and versatility than the abrasive chop saw ... at the end both cuts metals... this rage2 saw does a clean cut on average thin wall tubes (when new). I think up to 2" square x 1/16 wall... but once you tried to cutting thicker metal it bogs down and doesn't perform as well as the abrasive saws, like the 2" square x 3/16 wall tubing... and you can't cut shorter length of the tubing.... it must be long enough to be clamp rigidly... and it takes a pretty long length otherwise your piece of metal might airborne.
In fact I had to resort back to the cheap abrasive saw when cutting those 3/16 wall tubing .
As a hobbyist cutting speed is not as important, functionality and versatility is more important IMO. A little different if I were to chop long piece metal all day on a set straight or miter cut... then again I still wouldn't use this saw, the motor is just too dam loud, even louder when the blade hits the metal....
yes I did square the clamp and the blade once every few heavy duty cuts., and yes I still have that saw since they first came out , almost 10 years ago? as well as a cheap 14" abrasive saw
oh you want to cut?
1) pie cut for your exhaust bend.... Fahgettaboudit
2) you want to cut a piece of metal that didn't have the minimum length (something like 12" length) to clamp down securely..... Fahgettaboudit
3) you want some curves ..... Fahgettaboudit
4) blades are not cheap they cost about 10X more as the abrasives and no they don't cut 100x more than abrasives... and that is only ideal conditions... not even guarantee...
5) the tooth of the blades are easily chipped...even if you are being careful spin the blades full speed before plunging down the cut slowly. Once it's chipped the blades performance decade rapidly and that would be 10x more $$$ down the drain..
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ovrrdrive
Well-known member
I have a rage2 and love it. Cuts perfectly square right out of the box. Don't even have to clean the edges before welding.