Drywall Advice?

[zsjordan]

Hey guys,

I was attempting to do medium sized drywall patch on my own, because I have the AMPLE time right now and am on a tight budget. Unfortunately, I'm at the tape and compound stage, and it's going terribly bad. About to head back to Home Depot and wondering if anyone has any suggestions before I make attempt #2.

I created some wooden backing since there was no stud present here. Did 3 horizontal sections for added support. Got some drywall from a neighbor and cut to fit. Screwed in the drywall, nice and snug.

Bought some self-adhesive fibatape mesh drywall tape, having read great reviews. Thought that it would alleviate me having to put down the first coat of compound.

Got home and realized that there were 2 small sections where the new drywall wasn't flush with the outer drywall, so I decided to do a very thin layer of compound around the perimeter before laying the Mesh drywall tape (even though I thought maybe I didn't need to).

Laid the mesh drywall tape.

Laid the first layer of compound over the perimeter and let dry overnight.

The next day, I dry sanded the perimeter because (despite everyone online saying how freaking easy this is) my compound work is not neat in the slightest. I could still see the mesh cross-hatch. I read online that you have to do 2 coats to get the mesh cross-hatch to disappear. So I did another coat and let dry overnight.

Today, I wet sanded my messy compound work... and I'm back to square one where you can pretty much see the mesh crosshatch tape in a good 60% of the patch. Oh fun what a waste of time. I got frustrated, wet the compound a little more and ripped off the mesh compound tape.

I figure maybe I should head back to Home Depot to get standard tape. Then wet the pre-existing compound, place tape and let dry. Then once dry, I should be able to do a layer of compound on the standard tape and I'm good (as long as I can figure out how to better my strokes with the compound knife

Any suggestions or guidance would be so appreciated. Please don't tell me that I should have hired a professional. Trust me, if my industry wasn't shut down till 2021 due to Covid nonsense, I probably would have.

I posted some attachments. Where I am now, is the last 3 attachments that are labeled with today's date.

Any thoughts as to what I did wrong with the mesh tape?

Thanks guys.

 

[The Cobbler]

I'm not a mesh tape guy, I like paper, but I think you just need to build it a bit & feather it out wider .
use a putty knife to knock off high spots rather than sanding

 

[rok_hunter]

What I did - and consider this to be worth what I'm charging you for it - once at the point you showed in the photo, I hit those spots with some lightweight spackle and ever-so-softly sanded smooth. Then I hit it with a spray can or orange peel texture (looks like that's what you have too) and painted it. Could *I* still see the faint rise over the mesh where the spackle was? Yeah. Mainly because I knew it was there.

Could anyone else who came in? Dunno. Did anyone at all ever say anything about it if they did? Nope.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[mbarone]

Check out the Vancouver Carpenter on youtube. his drywall videos helped me out tremendously when I started finishing my garage. In some areas I had patches (from previous owner) that had 1/4" difference in surfaces and I needed to build out more using compound and a 10" knife to feather. I also went with tape vs mesh for the areas I had to redo due to bubbling, and VC has some videos explaining when to use tape vs mesh for better results.

Looks like you have a good start, don't be afraid to build up a little more and feather out to hide the repair. You wont notice once texture and paint is on the wall.

Sent from my PH-1 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[zsjordan]

I'm not a mesh tape guy, I like paper, but I think you just need to build it a bit & feather it out wider .
use a putty knife to knock off high spots rather than sanding

Thanks for the reply. I did a great deal of dry wall before but it was 10+ years ago and I had someone helping that was knowledgable about it. We used paper tape and it wasn't nearly this difficult.

The feathering is part of my problem. I do small electronics work successfully but for some reason can't get my hand to figure out how to feather using the puddy knife I've been wondering if it's the type of compound I'm using it. I'm using All Purpose pre-mix but in the jar, it's seemingly thicker than everything I see on a youtube video.

 

[zsjordan]

Thanks for the reply rok_hunter and mbarone. I think you both may have hit the nail on the head that was I being to overly concerned about the mesh look. After seeing your posts, I'm wondering if I was pretty much there and it would have been solved when I painted using a roller.

Just comparing my job to these "perfect" videos on Youtube, I didn't want to finish the paint step, and it look like pure garbage.

Thanks for the youtube suggestion mbarone, I'll definitely check it out. I'm going to run to Home Depot and get standard tape just to finish this job, but I'm sure the videos will help me in the future since I'll have both standard and mesh tape at my disposal.

Much appreciated all.

 

[matt_i]

Agreed that the videos are excellent way to learn.

The thing that helped me most was watching some pro guys drywall what seemed like a 1 acre wall as a warehouse divider, several hundred feet long, 40ft high. On their **** (non tapered) seams the drywall joint compound is tapered out a full 12" from each side of the centerline. Once I got that in my mind my work got a lot better.

 

[KansasArt]

^^^ What he said! ^^^ I’m very much an amateur here too. But have learned a few things from my mistakes. Especially the part of not sanding it back down to the tape. Let it dry, feather the next coat a little wider, let it dry... I’ve learned it takes patience.

 

[walta]

I like to use the 45 minute dry powder compound for the first 2 coats. Normally I can see a mesh pattern in the first coat of mud do not sand the first coat just rub it with a dry mud knife and knock off any lumps.

Walta

 

[unslow1]

Google Youtube The Vancouver Carpenter he does a great job of explaining and demonstrating. He does primarily drywall work in is videos.

 

[fourbyford]

In addition to all the great tips above...

YOUR MUD IS TOO DRY!

Add a bit of water to your container and stir thoroughly. Get some mud on your knife and try it... still too dry? Add a bit more water... step and repeat. Be careful not to add too much... a bit at a time... incrementally... you'll find the sweet spot.

You didn't mention anything about your knife... never use a knife less than 6" wide. I have 6", 8", 10" and 12"... and I use them all. As was previously mentioned, you're not getting enough mud on the wall. Fill it and feather it out.

I use mesh tape exclusively... absolutely nothing wrong with it.

There really aren't any secrets to finishing drywall. There are a few techniques that require a lot of practice to master. Keep on keeping on... you'll get there!

...D

 

[67carl]

I'd just add beware of that spray can texture. I had a patch in my home office and damn that stuff smells. Like nail polish remover x10. Couldn't use the office for 2 days.

 

[ddawg16]

Another vote for what ssdave said...........

You can't rush drywall.........it typically takes at least 3 applications to get it decent.

 

[BFBOB]

I use mesh tape sometimes-just depends on the situation. Ceilings, for instance, because I HATE working overhead. Stick the tape up, throw mud. I have never put down mud first, then mesh tape. If you're seeing the mesh pattern, you've sanded too deep. Simple as that. Re-mud, sand more gently.

I also like mesh sanding screens, but they have the same problem-showing the pattern. You MUST keep the screen moving at an angle, not straight forward or straight sideways. If you do go straight forward or side, it WILL leave a series of little gouges right where the screen fibers are.
I use it, because it is fast, efficient and lasts a long time. But, I always use sandpaper for the final sanding.

P.S.
No pix, no attachments on your first post

 

[nadogail]

I buy hot mud in powder by the bag and decant it into a clear screw top plastic container. I like self adhesive mesh tape.

Rather than a putty knife I use a tape knife that fits my mud tray. A wet sponge to smooth your wet mud will save a lot of messy sanding.

 

[ddawg16]

The old expression....."You learn by your mistakes"......

That is why ssdave and I are so f'ing smart.....though, ssdave is a LOT smarter than me.

When I was doing my 2-story addition to my house, I used the premixed stuff. It works great as long as you use it quickly....otherwise, the stuff drys on the bag an ends up getting caught up in your mud.

I now keep 90 min mud and mix it up as needed. Now that I know what I'm doing, I know how wet I need to make it to do what I want.

I use two knives....one is about 4"....that is what I use for slapping stuff on in corners....my big knife is for everything else. If I was doing it for a living...I'd use an even bigger knife.

It's 'all in the wrist'.............

 

[ddawg16]

I have a 12" knife and then a couple of smaller plastic ones. I a corner one....but I've stopped using it.

Because I'm only doing my own stuff...I'm not in a big rush....typical routine....come home from work....install some drywall....repeat next day.

When it's time to tape and mud....come home from work....apply tape....have a beer.
On corners....I've had better success after the first tape and mud to just mud one side of the corner using a 4" plastic knife. Once it's dry, I do the other side of the corner.

For the **** edges, I've started using home made '**** boards'.

And....when ever possible....12' sheets vs 8'. It's worth the extra effort to lift.

It is an art.....but my 2-story addition is done now.....so I doubt I'll be doing my drywall except for repairs or modifications.

BTW....great idea with the bucket. Wish I had known about that.

 

[fourbyford]

" amateur hour... don't add water..."

Well, if that was addressed at me, I guess I'm guilty as charged... I certainly have never done this for a living... OTH, I, long ago, lost track of the number of buckets/boxes of mud I've gone through. I learned from a professional finisher and he is the one that revealed the secret of "thinning" the mud to (the individual's) workable consistency.

As with everything on GJ, we all have our own methods that work for us. To me, the error is made when we say "always" or "never" and I'd guess I've been guilty of that.

Even with the experience I have, I've found myself struggling from time to time, only to realize the mud is too dry. As far as the manufacturer adding the exact amount of water... maybe. I've seen huge variations in the consistency of mud from bucket to bucket of box to box. A bit of water mixed in can make a world of difference.

Since I'm not doing this for a living, I could care less how long it takes the mud to dry. I have plenty of things to do while that happens. Having said that, yep, I agree, the first coat may take a bit to dry... subsequent coats are so thin, they dry pretty quickly.

I'll add that I prefer smooth walls... no texture, only paint. As an "amateur", I've been able to produce walls flat enough to paint... and look good.

Guess we all do the things that work for us.

...D

 

[fourbyford]

Agreed!

Much easier to do the work with the knife while the mud is wet... than with sandpaper when it's dry... lol

...D