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drywall ceiling help!!!!!!

rich1956

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Nov 25, 2006
Messages
27
Hi guys,ive been lurking for awhile here and love looking at the progress pics....well i finally got some money together to update my shop.well for the walls i have 2x6 studs on 16 centers,12'high walls...no big deal,BUT my ceiling joists are on 48" centers with the span of 24'.I would like to hear any and all ideas,how to make this work..do i nail in 4' supports every 2'? or do i nail furring strips on bottom on joists every two feet?...im pulling what little left of my hair out...should i drywall the walls and hire in a drop t-bar ceiling contractor....i want it insulated..the shop is 24x70' in northern california!..again thanks for reading and thanks in advance if you have ANY suggestions?...:beer:
 
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boiler7904

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Apr 4, 2006
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Location
NW IN
I don't know that adding furring to the bottom side of the joists is going to give you the rigidity that you need for a drywall ceiling but it might. It seems like the furring strips would sag a little due to the 48" span which would telegraph through the drywall.

Assuming that you don't want any ceiling mounted equipment (hose reels, cord reels, drop lights, air lines, etc.) other than lighting you do have another option. The major ceiling grid companies (USG, Chicago Metallic, and Armstrong) all make a drywall suspension grid which is basically an unfinished acoustical ceiling grid that gets regular 5/8" or 1/2" sag resistant gyp board screwed to it and finished like usual. This type of material does have very specific weight ratings that need to be followed though. Something to consider. Let us know what you decide to go with.
 
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rich1956

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Nov 25, 2006
Messages
27
boiler7904 said:
I don't know that adding furring to the bottom side of the joists is going to give you the rigidity that you need for a drywall ceiling but it might. It seems like the furring strips would sag a little due to the 48" span which would telegraph through the drywall.

Assuming that you don't want any ceiling mounted equipment (hose reels, cord reels, drop lights, air lines, etc.) other than lighting you do have another option. The major ceiling grid companies (USG, Chicago Metallic, and Armstrong) all make a drywall suspension grid which is basically an unfinished acoustical ceiling grid that gets regular 5/8" or 1/2" sag resistant gyp board screwed to it and finished like usual. This type of material does have very specific weight ratings that need to be followed though. Something to consider. Let us know what you decide to go with.
great idea..thank you
 

Bill K

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Oct 21, 2005
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Location
Thomasville NC
Consider the weight load you will be putting on the joist. Are these wood trusses? 24'is a long span for a 2 x 6 . I would check the truss or roof specs if possible before hanging much of a load on the bottom of the joist. Suspended grid may be the best option in your case.
Bill
 

VvvJRvvV

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Oct 25, 2006
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Location
Sharptown
Bill K said:
Consider the weight load you will be putting on the joist. Are these wood trusses? 24'is a long span for a 2 x 6 . I would check the truss or roof specs if possible before hanging much of a load on the bottom of the joist. Suspended grid may be the best option in your case.
Bill

I just had my 30' x 40' built. I have 2x6 wooden trusses that span 30'. I spoke with the engineer and told him that I would be studding out the ceiling and installing either drywall or OSB (at this point probably OSB). I was told I would not have any problems.

If possible you may want to try to speak to the engineer that designed your roof. If not possible, you may be able to call a truss builder and get some advice from them.
 
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rich1956

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Nov 25, 2006
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VvvJRvvV said:
I just had my 30' x 40' built. I have 2x6 wooden trusses that span 30'. I spoke with the engineer and told him that I would be studding out the ceiling and installing either drywall or OSB (at this point probably OSB). I was told I would not have any problems.

If possible you may want to try to speak to the engineer that designed your roof. If not possible, you may be able to call a truss builder and get some advice from them.
great replies and ideas...thanks alot!
 

dreamingmuscle

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Dec 4, 2005
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3,472
Location
Tryon Oklahoma
Leave the it open. Insulate the rafters next to the roofing plywood. Just remember to leave room between the insulation and the plywood so the roof can breathe.

Leaving the rafters open mean you can store some of your longer stuff up there.
________
Ferrari F399
 
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dreamingmuscle

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Location
Tryon Oklahoma
If you just have to have a ceiling don't nail furing strips to the bottom. Nail boards of the same size as the joist between the joist 24 on center standing up on edge. They will sag if you lay them down.

Glen
________
Mazdaspeed3 picture
 
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kenfath

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Oct 17, 2006
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358
Location
Upland, CA
I have a similar problem -- very long 2x6s on 48" centers. I think they are refered to as "spans" and not joists. Their real purpose is to keep the walls parallel. I'm going from memory but I think 12' on 16 inch centers is the longest length recommended for a drywalled ceiling using 2x6s.

Your original message asked for recommendations. As much as I hate to admit it I have reached the conclusion I need professional help with my project. This might be the best course for you as well.
 
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rich1956

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Nov 25, 2006
Messages
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kenfath said:
I have a similar problem -- very long 2x6s on 48" centers. I think they are refered to as "spans" and not joists. Their real purpose is to keep the walls parallel. I'm going from memory but I think 12' on 16 inch centers is the longest length recommended for a drywalled ceiling using 2x6s.

Your original message asked for recommendations. As much as I hate to admit it I have reached the conclusion I need professional help with my project. This might be the best course for you as well.
KEN...UNLUCKILY,,,THATS THE PATH I THINK I HAVE TO GO ON...LOL:beer:
 
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