Drywall Compound - What to use?

[TractorJeff]

I read the Drywall threads occasionally.
Never thought about it a lot. We decided to "tape and mud" our Heated Shop walls this Fall. Anyways what is the difference between Green topped buckets and Blue topped buckets?

 

[BigGarage]

I read the Drywall threads occasionally.
Never thought about it a lot. We decided to "tape and mud" our Heated Shop walls this Fall. Anyways what is the difference between Green topped buckets and Blue topped buckets?

Google has the answer:


What's the difference between green and blue joint compound?


Green is all-purpose “heavy weight” and has no bearing on where it's used as far with greenboard or whatever. Green is a stronger compound than the “light weight” blue so it's preferred for all joint taping and screw covering.Nov 12, 2018

They are the same price at HD. https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...uZnlAhUJKK0KHTGhBA8Q4dUDCAo#spf=1570987818665

 

[DieselNut88]

Green is harder. Typically used for the first tape coat and on corners. It is harder to sand. Blue for the middle coats. Easier to sand. Yellow comes in a box, it is very soft and for final imperfections.

 

[TractorJeff]

LOL!
Thanks Guys!
I guess I was thinking of how a Garage isn't always heated nor is it always cooled.
I didn't want to stand there staring at the buckets and wonder?

 

[greenskeeper]

20 minute set...mix until slightly thicker than pancake batter

 

[Viper98912]

I'm a complete novice, and have always used the green. I bought the blue but couldn't get it to work right (since I'd always used the green). So even for finishing, I still use the green. Again, novice...

 

[Norcal]

Boxed all purpose mud, just dump it in a 5 gallon bucket, as it is being used scrape the sides down, so it does not dry & contaminate the mud. when everything has been taped or boxed out depending the stage of the job, scrape the sides and add water, to cover the mud, then wash the sides down so not to leave debris in the mud, when ready to start again, pour off the water, I don't like to remix the mud because it can get too thin & ready to go. I don't like hot mud as it does not seem as durable as premixed all purpose mud, although do use 5 minute hot mud sometimes.

 

[dogdog]

Those 5 gallon green bucket all purpose joint compound is all I used... unless I am doing a rush job that doesn't want to wait for drying time, then those plaster of Paris hot mud things...

with the green bucket, use as is for the first two coat. the last coat if you are still not comfortable working it... add a little water.. and use a paddle mix enough in a separate bucket in smooth cream consistency... It will be easy to apply for the final layer smooth... and thin... keep in mind you can't keep those mixed mud for long... because of the water added, it'll be moldy after a while... ask me how I know . but it is fine to keep for few days ... just not months

 

[tonyciambrone]

In our climate- pre-fill joints with USG Durabond.

Taping mud imo depends on what tape. Fibafuse or mesh tape I suggest also Durabond with a little added glue. Check out drywall doctor on YouTube but the Durabond (20 to 90 minute depends on how fast you need to work or bow fast you can work) fills the seams so when drywall contracts, it does not crush itself or pull inwards cracking the tape.

Paper tape I would use all purpose (green bucket) or a comparable lightweight all purpose (check out USG's website) main difference of all purpose is the amount of adhesive, and hardness when dried

Finishing I have only ever used USG plus-3 (blue lid) or plus 3 tinted (white and fed box, mud is colored yellow.)

 

[kaymccampbell]

I had terrible cracking issues with the bucket mud. I switched to Durabond and have had almost zero issues.

 

[sreeb]

I set the tape with the 20 minute powder.

Finish with the premixed topping.

 

[Jon_E]

I use setting compound for initial taping and first coat, green lid for the finish. Not a pro but have picked up a lot of good tips over the years. I'm good but v-e-r-y slow. Use wide knives, don't leave ridges to sand off later, use a damp sponge on the finish coat and you won't have to sand hardly at all. I mix some dish soap into the mud to make it more workable, and a few drops of food dye so I can tell where I've been.

 

[rainmann]

I can never get the Durabond 20 used before it hardens. I recommend the Durabond 90 which still seems to dry in 60 minutes since it takes me 10 minutes to mix and start using. (Another amateur but skimmed a lot of walls)

 

[mcbane]

The only reason to fool with hot mud is when you have a small job where you can apply a coat in a few minutes and dont want to wait half a day or longer for it to dry before you can sand or apply the next coat.