Drywall experts needed within...

[BellyUpFish]

So, I'm about to finish the interior of my shop. I've decided to go with drywall.

I've been reading its suggested to start with the ceiling.

Why is that? My current shop is inhabited and it would be much easier, I think, if I started with the walls..


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[Kaizen]

Yup like kthree says. Structurally no different but it looks nicer as the first edge is covered. You can do the walls and then just **** ceiling up to the wall. Could be ragged if that’s a cut edge. Walls are always a little wavy or out of square


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[01sierra2500hd]

Not an expert, but one reason to start with the ceiling is that the sidewall sheets will hold up the ceiling sheets, basically not relying only on the screws at the wall to ceiling joint. Belief is that it makes a stronger corner joint, less likely to crack.

 

[zhaddock]

Not an expert, but one reason to start with the ceiling is that the sidewall sheets will hold up the ceiling sheets, basically not relying only on the screws at the wall to ceiling joint. Belief is that it makes a stronger corner joint, less likely to crack.

^ this ^ Otherwise the ceiling sheets could start to sag towards the wall joint and crack the mud in the corners.

 

[strutaeng]

^ this ^ Otherwise the ceiling sheets could start to sag towards the wall joint and crack the mud in the corners.

This is what I have always heard from the pros.

I suppose you can add blocking at the perimeter and screw the ceiling like at 6" o.c. if you do the walls first. In new construction this is obviously would never get done.

 

[aabirdman]

Everyone has hit it right. The sheets can sag between the joist where there are no nails or screws to hold it up. If you put the ceiling up first and then the walls the wall board will hold up the ceiling edges. Another tip, Keep the wall sheets off the floor. If it is standard 8' walls there should be 1/4 " off the floor.
That way if water get on the floor it won't wick up the drywall and start to mold or mildew. If you have to cut or rip the wall sheets make them 1/4-3/8"short.

 

[Billy Jack]

Most of us DIY'ers are working without a lift, which makes it easier to start with the ceiling. First, you can screw some strapping to the wall studs to support one end of the sheet. Also, if the walls are a bit out of square, the wall sheets will cover a small gap, eliminating the need to drop, trim and re-hang the ceiling sheet.

Bill

 

[cdestuck]

If you hate finishing drywall as bad as I do, do it either way and after your done, buy a sheet or two of 3/4” MDF or even 1 x 4 or 6” pine. Cut the mdf into 5 1/2” wide strips and nail horizontally at the top of the walls as a trim piece. Then paint.

 

[cgrutt]

If you hate finishing drywall as bad as I do, do it either way and after your done, buy a sheet or two of 3/4” MDF or even 1 x 4 or 6” pine. Cut the mdf into 5 1/2” wide strips and nail horizontally at the top of the walls as a trim piece. Then paint.

I recommend checking local code before doing this... generally i understand all joints and seams must be filled and taped as vapor barrier and to retard spread of fire...

 

[Whitworth]

You’re getting the support at the edges, as mentioned. Also not cutting ceiling panels to fit against wall panels. (There’s gonna be some cutting.). This is faster and cleaner, when simply butting drywall vertically up against the ceiling and screwing in place.

I think this may have been covered before, but buy a drywall lift and use drywall guns. Also consider drywall lifter/levers, quite helpful accessory.

 

[7echo]

One thing that helps with ceilings is to use ceiling board. Much stiffer than regular drywall.

 

[Affinity Fab]

One thing that helps with ceilings is to use ceiling board. Much stiffer than regular drywall.

Interesting! I've done a lot of drywall & never heard of such a thing until now.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Check the cost difference and use green for the bottom for moisture control if the cost is not out of your budget...

 

[7echo]

Interesting! I've done a lot of drywall & never heard of such a thing until now.

Here is a link to National Gypsum's variety. Its good stuff.

http://nationalgypsum.com/products/Product.aspx?ProductID=2421

 

[like2wheel]

As said, use the wall panels to support the ends of the ceiling panels, & don't put any screws within 6-8" of that intersection.
Helps keep that corner from cracking.

 

[Affinity Fab]

Here is a link to National Gypsum's variety. Its good stuff.

http://nationalgypsum.com/products/Product.aspx?ProductID=2421

Yeah, I went straight to google & started reading about CertainTeed's variety. Seems like a great idea where you have greater than 16"oc ceiling joists or trusses. i.e nearly every garage or polebarn!

 

[Sh40674]

depends... if i can get around the perimeters of a sheet, and the spacing isn't bad (like floor joists 16" on center) then i start with whatever is convenient at the time (for example i did my walls on my basement first because i didn't have access to a drywall hoist for a few days)

but if i need some extra support i throw up the ceiling first.

if you don't really need the extra support go with whatever you feel like doing first. if you mud decently it will all look and hold fine in the end.

 

[Sh40674]

One thing that helps with ceilings is to use ceiling board. Much stiffer than regular drywall.

good call, a lot of people don't realize that some regular drywall isn't really rated for ceiling use.

 

[Sh40674]

Everyone has hit it right. The sheets can sag between the joist where there are no nails or screws to hold it up. If you put the ceiling up first and then the walls the wall board will hold up the ceiling edges. Another tip, Keep the wall sheets off the floor. If it is standard 8' walls there should be 1/4 " off the floor.
That way if water get on the floor it won't wick up the drywall and start to mold or mildew. If you have to cut or rip the wall sheets make them 1/4-3/8"short.

what i do in wet areas (basement, garage) is lay a piece of 2x4 down and use that as a spacer between the floor and the bottom of the drywall, as water in a basement or garage could easily exceed 1/4".

seems high, but the one time we got 1/2" of water in our basement, the drywall was perfectly fine.

 

[850xpeps]

You don’t need to rip sheets as a framed 8’ wall is 8’1 tall. 1/2” ceiling gives you 1/2” off the floor. Do the ceiling first it will help support. If trusses are 16” on centre light weight 1/2” will do fine if can’t find ceiling board. If 2’ on center I would strap it as it will sag in time and look like shat.


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[RVDan]

Yes you would have a 1" gap at the floor if you didn't have the drywal on the ceiling first.

 

[BellyUpFish]

Seems like good enough reasons to go with the ceiling first. Would have been simpler to go walls first, but if the correct way to do it is ceiling, then that's that I'll do.

I'm planning on using 5/8" 4x12 sheets everywhere. My ceiling joists are on 24" centers.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

You can do them both "at the same time". When you clear stuff away from a corner start with the ceiling above it, then those sections of wall. Clear out the next section and repeat.
You don't mention how big the space is. Once finish one wall do the center of the ceiling and the end walls.
I prefer to do all the taping, sanding and finishing at once.

 

[jetnow1]

If you hate finishing drywall as bad as I do, do it either way and after your done, buy a sheet or two of 3/4” MDF or even 1 x 4 or 6” pine. Cut the mdf into 5 1/2” wide strips and nail horizontally at the top of the walls as a trim piece. Then paint.

This might be ok if you firetape under it.

 

[Kaizen]

Seems like good enough reasons to go with the ceiling first. Would have been simpler to go walls first, but if the correct way to do it is ceiling, then that's that I'll do.



I'm planning on using 5/8" 4x12 sheets everywhere. My ceiling joists are on 24" centers.

Those sheets are heavy! I struggled with them on an eight foot ceiling. Definitely get a lift. Well worth the harbor freight money


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[Crazyjake8493]

Not sure how big your shop is but a lift is definitely worth it for the ceiling, and the walls if you're installing them horizontally. I kept mine but I know a lot of people who have bought them and re-sold them for at least what they paid. I got mine on Amazon for $130. Or you could rent one, not sure what the rental cost is.

 

[Markfothebeast]

Myself and other guys I've worked with in the drywall biz have always started with the ceiling. In a tight room it can be hard to squeeze a sheet up to the ceiling and it can scrape and gouge the wall sheets if hung first.

Butting the wall sheets up against the ceiling sheets just makes more sense to me. And it may also help prevent the ceiling sheets from future movement, cracking joints, etc. Rent/borrow/buy a drywall lift. You'll be hurting backs without one.

Also, on walls, hang the upper sheet first if you are going horizontal. Fit the upper wall sheet tight up against the ceiling sheet. Always leave at least a 1/2" gap between the floor and bottom sheet.

-Markfothebeast-
(www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

 

[ford33]

Check your local building codes. There may be requirements for type and thickness of drywall and taping. You may also find that openings in ceiling may need a fire rate foam.

 

[Bluevista]

Where do you mark where the studs are on top if you don't do the ceiling first?
I've been doing drywall for forever and never heard of doing the walls first?
I have a titanium neck from it, used your head to hold up the sheet on the ceiling to nail it when I started, you're hanging partner had to be about the same height or somebody was kneeling or on their tip toes. There were no no drywall lifters in the olden days, no drywall screws either, yep... yep... yep....

 

[BellyUpFish]

It’s a detached garage in the boonies of Alabama. Code doesn’t exist. :/

That said, I’d like to do the job to a code, where it’s sensible.

It’s a 36x48 shop. 12’ ceiling. Drywall lift will be part of the project. As will 2 rolling scaffolds and a collared screw gun.


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[russ01915]

in the northeast we strap(1 x 3 furring) the ceiling to avoid loose edges,to help level out, to keep joists from twisting and to make it easier tom run wires and plumbing if necessary.

 

[NUTTSGT]

FWIW, I just told the wife a few hours ago, " did I ever tell you how much I hate dry walling ?" and her reply was, "every time I do it." I finished mudding the first coat in the utility room, got a shower and working on a very large Bacardi and Pepsi.

I now remember why I didn't put it up in either garage but I do get why people like it when it's finished. Personally I'd at least go with ribbed metal for a ceiling and drywall vertically for the walls. I know you have been working on that new house and shop for awhile and hope it all turns out well in the end.

 

[BellyUpFish]

FWIW, I just told the wife a few hours ago, " did I ever tell you how much I hate dry walling ?" and her reply was, "every time I do it." I finished mudding the first coat in the utility room, got a shower and working on a very large Bacardi and Pepsi.



I now remember why I didn't put it up in either garage but I do get why people like it when it's finished. Personally I'd at least go with ribbed metal for a ceiling and drywall vertically for the walls. I know you have been working on that new house and shop for awhile and hope it all turns out well in the end.

We are getting there.. I wish we had just set our budget and nailed it. We came in significantly under budget and still have some minor things to do.

Landscape is next for the wife’s side of the project. I’ve gotta finish the shop. I got a wild hair and almost extended the shop about a month ago but figured I should at least finish this one first. LOL

I’ve got the walls insulated. Need to decide on the ceiling insulation and then make a final determination on the ceiling material.

I’m not looking forward to the drywall at all, but I think I’ll be happy with it when I’m done.


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[Markfothebeast]

It’s a detached garage in the boonies of Alabama. Code doesn’t exist. :/

That said, I’d like to do the job to a code, where it’s sensible.

It’s a 36x48 shop. 12’ ceiling. Drywall lift will be part of the project. As will 2 rolling scaffolds and a collared screw gun.


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I'm tired of hearing that term. Some codes exist for safety purposes but many are for greed. I refuse to live in an area where some a-hole tells me my garage drywall is too thin or my front door doesn't match the neighbors. And they want more money. F' that.

-Markfothebeast-
(www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

 

[BellyUpFish]

I'm tired of hearing that term. Some codes exist for safety purposes but many are for greed. I refuse to live in an area where some a-hole tells me my garage drywall is too thin or my front door doesn't match the neighbors. And they want more money. F' that.

-Markfothebeast-
(www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

Which term? Code? Yeh. Me too.

Fortunately, I live in an area where for the most part, no one cares what I do on my own land, for the time being anyway.

I do try to follow the codes that are clearly there for safety rather than because Uncle Timmy has a friend who needs to pad his wallet to move a warehouse full of whatchamacallits..

 

[Ch3No2]

Ceiling first and first wall sheets **** to the ceiling....upper corner will tape easier with a factory edge to smooth ceiling.
There's a reason why studs are 92 1/4 for an 8' ceiling.

 

[strutaeng]

Which term? Code? Yeh. Me too.

Fortunately, I live in an area where for the most part, no one cares what I do on my own land, for the time being anyway.

I do try to follow the codes that are clearly there for safety rather than because Uncle Timmy has a friend who needs to pad his wallet to move a warehouse full of whatchamacallits..

I think he's implying that he'd rather live in an area with no codes and/or restrictions.

I agree about codes being there for the general welfare of the public, but some of the stuff I read here about city/municipalities is nonsense.

I'm interested in how your install goes. I've got a build planned and will also be installing 5/8x4x12. In fact, they have been already delivered. Per the literature, they weigh about 104 pounds per sheet. It seems like it's a 3 men job, maybe only 2 with a lift.

 

[BellyUpFish]

Per the literature, they weigh about 104 pounds per sheet. It seems like it's a 3 men job, maybe only 2 with a lift.

I’ll be trying with 2 men and a lift..




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[killahog]

I am no Drywall expert but I have always used a strong adhesive like liquid nails on the ceiling to prevent any sag and having the screws pull thru.

 

[machsnell]

I am in the middle of a one man drywall show.

I head about gluing the drywall about a 1/4 of the way through. I am doing it now with pl.

I hadn't heard about the ceiling drywall and wish I had. My trusses are 24 o.c.

Oh well. Worked well enough for a few decades. Se la vie.

I unlike most enjoy drywall. I love mudding. Not so much the sanding but love spreading jc.

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