Drywall experts needed within...

[850xpeps]

Just drywalled a garage with 5/8” 4x12 sheets. Used a lift and 2 guys. We use a rotozip around boxes makes it easy and dead on when cutting them out.

We also strap any thing that’s over 16” centres. Glueing drywall is unheard of and weird. Nothing will sag on 16” centres.

 

[killahog]

I am no Drywall expert but I have always used a strong adhesive like liquid nails on the ceiling to prevent any sag and having the screws pull thru.

I guess I should rephrase this, I use the adhesive in addition to drywall screws, I have hung drywall on 6 ceiling's and so far I have not had a single screw pull thru. I have been known to over engineer things. Being an Engineer I have an excuse.

 

[BellyUpFish]

So, I'm on 24" centers and will be using 5/8's sheet..

Strap or no strap?

1x3's or 1x4's if strapping?

 

[NUTTSGT]

Just drywalled a garage with 5/8” 4x12 sheets. Used a lift and 2 guys. We use a rotozip around boxes makes it easy and dead on when cutting them out.

We also strap any thing that’s over 16” centres. Glueing drywall is unheard of and weird. Nothing will sag on 16” centres.

If you have a Dremel, they make a bit that will cut drywall.

Multipurpose cutting bit, #561

 

[850xpeps]

So, I'm on 24" centers and will be using 5/8's sheet..



Strap or no strap?



1x3's or 1x4's if strapping?

We use 1x4 never seen many 1x3 sold round here.

 

[850xpeps]

If you have a Dremel, they make a bit that will cut drywall.



Multipurpose cutting bit, #561

I like the depth plate I have on rotozip but ya dermal works too

 

[NUTTSGT]

I like the depth plate I have on rotozip but ya dermal works too

My Dremel came with a router attachment that may do the same, not sure. I already had the Dremel and bit so it was cheaper to use than going out and buying a Rotozip.

If you have a large project, yeah the Rotozip might be worth it but the bit (if you have a Dremel) is a tenth of the cost of the Rotozip and another option.

 

[Markfothebeast]

I think he's implying that he'd rather live in an area with no codes and/or restrictions.

I agree about codes being there for the general welfare of the public, but some of the stuff I read here about city/municipalities is nonsense.

I'm interested in how your install goes. I've got a build planned and will also be installing 5/8x4x12. In fact, they have been already delivered. Per the literature, they weigh about 104 pounds per sheet. It seems like it's a 3 men job, maybe only 2 with a lift.

4x12's are a pain in the **** even with a lift and 2 guys. I'll pray for you (smiley face here). But yes, some codes are absolute trash. I fortunately live in an area where the only codes that exist are generally when a new structure is built. If code were to be enforced in my area, the entire population would go in to bankruptcy.

-Markfothebeast-
(www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

 

[samsneed1]

Not an expert, but one reason to start with the ceiling is that the sidewall sheets will hold up the ceiling sheets, basically not relying only on the screws at the wall to ceiling joint. Belief is that it makes a stronger corner joint, less likely to crack.

That's definitely not an expert comment [emoji23] the screws or nails support the sheets, not adjacent walls

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[like2wheel]

That's definitely not an expert comment [emoji23] the screws or nails support the sheets, not adjacent walls

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Seems like kind of a rude 1st post there Sam, & I'm pretty sure the person you criticized is in fact correct. It's called "floating the corner", & works well to prevent cracks. Especially if the ceiling is the bottom chord of a truss.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...0i264k1.181.qiEQEN7ot10#imgrc=NKcC212q3n20qM:

Better luck next post.

 

[samsneed1]

My bad, shouldn't post while drinking [emoji3]

 

[Roberts210]

I just drywalled the cathedral ceilings in a 1,600 sq. ft. house I'm building. I did the drywall by myself. I used 4X8, 1/2" sheets rated for ceilings. I used a ladder and put them all up without a lift. Worked just fine.
On these ceilings I strapped them first, using 1X4's, so I could sink drywall screws closer together than the truss spacing.

 

[samsneed1]

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]Looks like the consensus is in. That is the preferred method, apologies to the original post...we don't do that in commercial construction, even old dogs can learn something new

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[killahog]

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Looks like the consensus is in. That is the preferred method, apologies to the original post...we don't do that in commercial construction, even old dogs can learn something new

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Welcome to the Forum Sam.

 

[Markfothebeast]

I'd done some drywall jobs where the owner had requested the sheets be glued and screwed. This is a great idea, especially on structures that have a lot of movement. The glue works best in thick "puddles" rather than beads. This is how I was taught from a veteran drywall-er.

-Markfothebeast-
(www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

 

[machsnell]

Glue and screw. I thought my builder buddy was joking when he told me about drywall glue.

Sure enough it's real. And since I switched I can feel the difference in the sheets glued v not.

It takes another 5 minutes and costs maybe another 2 bucks a shees.

Worth it if you ask me.

He also told me to use tape and not mesh. Mesh went up past year and hast cracks in the ceiling sheets. Tape is what I have been using lately.

I am about to take the flush cut oscillating tool and remove the mesh and grind put a groove for tape to be installed. Painful!

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[Markfothebeast]

Glue and screw. I thought my builder buddy was joking when he told me about drywall glue.

Sure enough it's real. And since I switched I can feel the difference in the sheets glued v not.

It takes another 5 minutes and costs maybe another 2 bucks a shees.

Worth it if you ask me.

He also told me to use tape and not mesh. Mesh went up past year and hast cracks in the ceiling sheets. Tape is what I have been using lately.

I am about to take the flush cut oscillating tool and remove the mesh and grind put a groove for tape to be installed. Painful!

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I agree on the classic paper tape 100%.

-Markfothebeast-
(www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

 

[Markfothebeast]

I use basic "construction glue".

-Markfothebeast-
(www.youtube.com/markfothebeast)

 

[Iowa drywallguy]

First of all, I've been reading posts here for a long time, lots of great information, figured since I'm a drywall guy I'd chime in on this one, definitely do the ceiling first, it will will more than likely crack from truss lift if you do not