Drywall lift experience?

[LX-Markham]

If someone else is using it you do not have to store it.

Ain’t that the truth! Mine just came back and I don’t have a good place to put it.

 

[Farmall450]

They work great. Check online, 2 new ones on FB by me.

 

[acer66]

Could you explain the " self made **** boards,"?
I'v one room that is 15' wide and IF I can get 16' drywall sheets it will be easy, no butts, few cuts. If I can't then I'm going to a lot of **** joints.

I know Menards sells it but they ar 250+ miles away.

Made them out of whatever 1/2” or less ply scrap I had laying around and used one layer or drywall shims instead of the poster board even they are a bit thicker which I just stapled on.

 

[red61cj5]

Since it popped up again I will say I used the Northern tool version, it worked allright, a little clunky, but functional. I think 140$ with the extension. Sold it on CL for 100$ in about 5 hours.

 

[Toolfool1]

I got royally hosed, I bought a more expensive made in USA version and it worked great until I got away from the business of hanging drywall. Hard to sell and compete with the less expensive ones that do the same thing, got a fraction of my American made money back when I finally sold it at a huge loss. Stupid business move on my point, should have went HF and increased my profit margins.

 

[Dragfluid]

I bought one 2nd hand to put up the steel for my 14' ceiling. Not sure but I believe it came from Menards. The guy also had the extension with it. It was like new, 'cause all he did was use it on his basement ceiling and then put an ad up. I made a frame for it for the 21' steel panels. Pics in my build thread. Worked so wonderful! I even put up a half dozen panels by myself at the end.

I loaned it to another member here a while ago, so I don't have to store it either.

 

[matt_i]

I have the "GypTool" from Amazon which was about $30 more than the bottom price point. It has a nicer winch and square tube-feet on it and I think 1 inch bigger dia casters. So far it has been worth every dime, placing 12 foot sheets, 5/8" thick would never be a good thing, me and my 77yo Dad are the only chirroqueros on this job. I'm only placing on 10'6" ceilings, not sure of the ultimate lift or if there's a model by same mfg which goes higher.

Interestingly I shopped on CL before buying, but the two I found were both listed at greater than new price, so I figured why waste time.....granted asking price is fluid but it didn't seem like anything to gain.

 

[JRC3]

Bought one of these about two years ago. (See Below) For me HF and Menards are right accross the street from each other. I compared both within minutes and found them to be identical. The Mud Boss is now yellow but they used to be red just like HF.


Mud Boss™ Drywall Panel Lift

Model Number: SP-016-742
Menards® SKU: 2447994

EVERYDAY LOW PRICE $149.99
11% MAIL-IN REBATE $16.50 Valid Until 2/9/19
FINAL PRICE $133.49

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...87-c-8951.htm?tid=-8431015012306081888&ipos=1

You can borrow mine if you want.

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Also bought one of these before that. I've used it dozens of times and the thing is awesome. Best I can tell it's a Festool knockoff. Aleko is the brand found on ebay. I don't think they sell this one (probably got sued) but they do have quite a few other models.

 

[acer66]

I am keeping my cheapo for now and if I would ever would get another one I would spend a bit more since the casters are joke and fall apart when they hit anything taller than an 1/8”.
Thinking about welding some steel plates on mine to mount some proper casters.

 

[gemniii]

Made them out of whatever 1/2” or less ply scrap I had laying around and used one layer or drywall shims instead of the poster board even they are a bit thicker which I just stapled on.

Thanks!

 

[killahog]

I got royally hosed, I bought a more expensive made in USA version and it worked great until I got away from the business of hanging drywall. Hard to sell and compete with the less expensive ones that do the same thing, got a fraction of my American made money back when I finally sold it at a huge loss. Stupid business move on my point, should have went HF and increased my profit margins.

The Americans who's job you supported would think differently. Thanks for buying American made.

 

[gemniii]

I picked one up from an internet supplier for my 13’6” ceiling.

It has an extra pole that lifts to 15’.

Worked so well that I was able to fire my wife from the job.

She was grateful for that.

Which internet supplier?

I bought this one recently to do my 14’ ceilings in my pole barn. Did the job great for 12’ steel panels. $150 shipped:

http://r.ebay.com/qbt7Fr

Link didn't work for me.

I used one cheapo of ebay while a bit scary at first it is a real time and back saver, loading was a bit tricky alone because I used a lot of 12' sheets and because I had to get the one for the higher ceilings it made loading even trickier because it was higher.
<snip>

Where on ebay?

I thought about just renting one, but this is gonna be a few sheets today, a few sheets next week....kinda thing. Renting could get pricey. Northern tool had it for 150, plus 40 for the extension, if anyone's interested.

At this writing it's $130 https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200693184_200693184

Bought one of these about two years ago. (See Below) For me HF and Menards are right accross the street from each other. I compared both within minutes and found them to be identical. The Mud Boss is now yellow but they used to be red just like HF.
<snip>
Also bought one of these before that. I've used it dozens of times and the thing is awesome. Best I can tell it's a Festool knockoff. Aleko is the brand found on ebay. I don't think they sell this one (probably got sued) but they do have quite a few other models.

Yup sanding drywall can be a mess. I run a hose from my ROS (which I tape to a pole when I need the extra reach) to a little 2 gallon wet/dry vac input. I put a snorkel (cram a hose in) inside the vac down to about the bottom of the vac. Then with several inches of water in the vac it bubbles through the water and NO DUST.

Most of you guys seem to be using the HF, I've a ceiling at 13'+.

Is NT about the only game in town with extensions?

/edit and there are a lot of complaints about storing them. Can't they be disassembled?

 

[zeekh]

Made them out of whatever 1/2” or less ply scrap I had laying around and used one layer or drywall shims instead of the poster board even they are a bit thicker which I just stapled on.

Interesting, never heard off **** boards before this. Thanks

 

[signcrafter]

I bought one off ebay 15 or so years ago with the extension. The new ones still look the exact same. I've put up hundreds if not thousands of sheets with it and it's paid for itself many times over again. I've yet to use the extension on it. Buy any of them, the ones in this price range are all the same, and use it and enjoy it.

 

[acer66]

Where on ebay?

https://www.ebay.com/p/Arksen-Drywall-Lift-Panel-11-Inch-018HO18031/1756350929?iid=173529026479

Not sure if that is the exact model but it has the same looking wheels.
To be fair, once I started paying closer attention to it
I did not break another wheel.
This model is also sold at Northern tool etc..
It seems that the red version is for regular height ceilings
and the yellow one for higher ceilings.

 

[acer66]

Interesting, never heard off **** boards before this. Thanks

I am not a drywall pro and I **** at mudding, this makes things so much easier and on top of that you do not have to deal with screwing the ends onto the half of a 2x.

 

[Spulen81]

I rented one from HD when I did my kitchen last year. I only needed it for a day so $37 was money well spent. It made it really easy to put up 10ft pcs. I almost bought one but I already have storage issues.

 

[sierradmax]

Not $150 but easy enough that my 4 year old could use it.

 

[sierradmax]

FYI, some inspectors will ask you to refrain using **** boards as this reduces the quantity of screws in studs for wall boards and strapping/joists for boards at the ceiling. You're splitting the board joints in a stud cavity. Some inspectors are sticklers for screw quantities..

 

[Spook001]

I bought one from HF. I then bought an extension from Northern Tool, that gets me up to 15 ft. I can change out the masts in a couple of minutes. I used it to put up 22 ft glulams in a building. I measured each board, marked the center and centered the board on the lift. Otherwise, it would get tippy. I made a couple of guides to hold the board on edge. It worked, but sure wouldn’t pass a osha inspection. I actually haven’t used it on my own projects, but I have helped others, and loaned it out to a contractor buddy.

 

[cgrutt]

FYI, some inspectors will ask you to refrain using **** boards as this reduces the quantity of screws in studs for wall boards and strapping/joists for boards at the ceiling. You're splitting the board joints in a stud cavity. Some inspectors are sticklers for screw quantities..

How would this reduce screw quantities if there are fixed number of studs and wall board is still being attached at each one? Unless you're talking about the number of a screws landing on studs at **** joint?

 

[b-boy]

I bought a low-end Arksen model from Walmart 2 years ago. It goes to 11 ft. My pole barn is 12ft. I've been looking for an extension kit to help me do the ceiling, but I can't seem to find one. Anyone know if it exists?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ARKSEN-D...hguid=57816f39-734-168c3413c60f6d&athena=true

 

[sierradmax]

How would this reduce screw quantities if there are fixed number of studs and wall board is still being attached at each one? Unless you're talking about the number of a screws landing on studs at **** joint?

with a 16" O.C. stud wall, in order to use **** joint boards, you have to shift the sheets 8" so the joints land in a "stud cavity", reducing the number of studs bearing load on a single board from 6 to 5.

I brought up the idea of a **** joint board to my inspector and that was his concern. Probably has too much time on his hand but you get the idea.

 

[cgrutt]

with a 16" O.C. stud wall, in order to use **** joint boards, you have to shift the sheets 8" so the joints land in a "stud cavity", reducing the number of studs bearing load on a single board from 6 to 5.

I brought up the idea of a **** joint board to my inspector and that was his concern. Probably has too much time on his hand but you get the idea.

Got ya thanks I was thinking overall not per board.

 

[JRC3]

Most rooms are just under 12' for a reason...1-1/2 sheets of drywall per row. Cut 8" off an 8' sheet and it takes more than half a sheet to make of the difference, not leaving another 4' piece for the next row. Even with 12' sheets on larger rooms you'd be wasting drywall by needing to cut them 8" short. Nothing wrong with wasting drywall if it makes a seem fall in the right place like over a door or window making the finished wall better, but this is not better.

They actually make and sell buttboards. Brilliant, not only do they sell the **** board but they sell more drywall and screws for you to use them.

Not to mention someone pushing against a finished **** board joint and popping the screws through and/or making it crack. It may seem like a cool idea, but it doesn't seem like the best practice for any reason.

 

[acer66]

Most rooms are just under 12' for a reason...1-1/2 sheets of drywall per row. Cut 8" off an 8' sheet and it takes more than half a sheet to make of the difference, not leaving another 4' piece for the next row. Even with 12' sheets on larger rooms you'd be wasting drywall by needing to cut them 8" short. Nothing wrong with wasting drywall if it makes a seem fall in the right place like over a door or window making the finished wall better, but this is not better.

They actually make and sell buttboards. Brilliant, not only do they sell the **** board but they sell more drywall and screws for you to use them.

Not to mention someone pushing against a finished **** board joint and popping the screws through and/or making it crack. It may seem like a cool idea, but it doesn't seem like the best practice for any reason.

If a room is 12’ or under I get 12’ sheets and circumvent the whole issue all together
which is one of the benifits of using a lift when working alone.
I also mainly use buttboards for the ceiling because like you said most walls have some sort of break in them.

I could argue that **** boards save me mud and time
because I am way way faster in making some **** boards than feathering out a regular **** joint.
Did I mention that I **** at mudding?

Who pushes so hard against drywall that a **** board joint might crack but not regular drywall?
Besides now you have some extra backing to hang something.

 

[acer66]

with a 16" O.C. stud wall, in order to use **** joint boards, you have to shift the sheets 8" so the joints land in a "stud cavity", reducing the number of studs bearing load on a single board from 6 to 5.

I brought up the idea of a **** joint board to my inspector and that was his concern. Probably has too much time on his hand but you get the idea.

I used 4.5’ drywall on a 24” framed ceiling with **** boards and the inspector did not blink an eye.

No cracks even after my a bit over 200 lbs., on a good day, body moved around and carring stuff on the roof.