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Drywall newbie

thetruck454

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Apr 7, 2013
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101
I’ve only hung drywall a couple times so had a question about my garage addition. I’m hanging 5/8” on a ceiling that is 16’x30’ with the strapping (16” oc) running parallel with the 16’ side. My thought was to run a pattern of a 12’ sheet then take a 8’ and cut it in half, then the next row start with that other 4’ half and then put a 12 and repeat this pattern along the 30’ wall with the last row having to cut the sheets to whatever width is left over. I have access to a drywall lift, though I don't know if that mades a 5/8" 12' sheet still too heavy.

Also the walls are just under 10’ tall so I was going to run a 1/2" 10ft sheet vertical. I was told that both of these were contrary to popular believe where you don’t want to run the sheets parallel with the studs and strapping. Any thoughts on this?
 
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ddawg16

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Your ceiling idea is fine....and how most guys would do it....

On the walls....depends on who you talk to...

Your issue is that if you go horz, no matter how you do it....you end up with a strip 2' wide.

I'm getting ready to drywall the big wall in my family room...9' wall...I asked the same question on another forum that has some drywall experts. Responses were a mixed bag.

The issue of horz is the **** ends....you can make a **** board to reduce the bump...

But if you go add up the total linear feet of gap you have to tape and mud....vert will be less.

Assuming you have perfect stud placement...I would go vert. I'm willing to bet that you will have less tap to put down....and no **** joints.

I'm also assuming you have sheathing on the outside...
 

JakeKohl

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Feb 23, 2012
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Greenville, SC
Drywall was designed to be run vertically on a wall. Most pros put it on horizontally because it puts most of the mud joint at a nice comfortable chest working level and they can just deal with the **** joints (and you can live with them).
 

pattenp

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Virginia - USA
Can't say I agree with that. Drywall manufacturers say it can be installed either way but suggest it to be installed perpendicular to the framing members because it results in less linear footage of joints, provides better wall strength and covers irregularities in the wall framing better.

Drywall was designed to be run vertically on a wall. Most pros put it on horizontally because it puts most of the mud joint at a nice comfortable chest working level and they can just deal with the **** joints (and you can live with them).
 

Coolmoney

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Jul 15, 2013
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Drywall isn't supposed to be hung vertically because in residential applications it becomes a fire hazard where fire can jump through the seams directly to the stud behind it, in commercial applications where metal studs are used this is not a hazard.
 
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go4donuts

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Aug 9, 2013
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Regina, Saskatchewan
A few comments or questions about posts above (and let me say that I am just a questioning amateur, not an expert):

1. What is a **** board? (mentioned in post from DDAWG16)

2. About the notion that drywall should be installed horizontally (perpendicular to studs) for strength. This may be technically true (ie. stronger), but is that extra strength significant or important? Buildings that aren't finished inside seem to stand up quite nicely on their own. It's not like they must have horizontally installed drywall to hold them from collapsing. I'm inclined to think that installing drywall any old way on a wood frame structure will significantly increase the structure's strength and stability and that there isn't a significant difference between horizontal and vertical. Also, with horizontal drywall you have unsupported horizontal seams that could crack.

As an amateur who has done a few home drywall jobs, I much prefer vertical installation because the vertical seams on finished/recessed edges are much easier to finish than **** joints.

3. About the notion that drywall should be installed horizontally because fire could penetrate the seams on vertically installed drywall.... this doesn't make much sense to me. Is a **** joint seam more fire resistant than a finished-edge seam? You still have vertical seams on the studs when the drywall is installed horizontally - they are just staggered 4 foot seams instead of 8 foot seams. And I guess there would be fewer of them along the ceiling line (every 8 or 12 feet instead of every 4 feet) where the heat would be most intense.

In general, it is my belief that in many areas of interest (mechanics, renovation/construction, cooking...anything) there are a lot of 'old wives tales' about how things should be done that started out as one guy's 'notion' and then get propagated as fact.
 
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thetruck454

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Apr 7, 2013
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101
I just got done measuring the ceiling and there will be some sections that are 16'2". Does this mean I need to get 10' sheets and cut them to 4'2" or can I make up that much gap with mud and the space for the wall drywall?
 

peterwick

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Aug 14, 2013
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Connecticut
Is need for 5/8 Based on the "need for fire rating" on ceiling? I'm guessing that there is something above the garage- like a house? If so the connecting wall also needs 5/8. The vert / hor. decision is really dependant on how many hands are available. If you can do 10ft'rs vertically you are going to go faster when you tape since no butts. The wall sheets also help hold up the ceiling sheets. At 10 ft you are going to be on stilts? I've had enough agravation from handling long sheets alone, I'd go with 8's and deal with the extra butts on ceiling. 5/8 gets heavy after a few hours. I've always used deadmen, never had access to a lift. Oh, and I'm cheap and stubborn- still believe I can outsmart a piece of gypsum.
 

Spudland_Dave

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Drywall was designed to be run vertically on a wall. Most pros put it on horizontally because it puts most of the mud joint at a nice comfortable chest working level and they can just deal with the **** joints (and you can live with them).

Correct...the Drywall I used on mine was actually marked with pre-printed 16" OC & 24" OC down the LONG sides...in other words, when stood up vertically the lines showed me right where my studs were...making screwing a dream.

My uncle has done drywall finishing for 35+ years, so I asked him about the vertical vs horiz install before doing mine...his response was it doesn't matter mechanically, but horizontal install is much easier/faster for him to tape.


ddawg16 said:
I'm getting ready to drywall the big wall in my family room...9' wall...I asked the same question on another forum that has some drywall experts. Responses were a mixed bag.

This is the reason they make 54" wide drywall...2 sheets high. Not very popular though, which was good for me...I picked up a lift of 54" x 144" drywall on clearance for less then 3.00 a sheet, used it on my ceiling.
 

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Drywall isn't supposed to be hung vertically because in residential applications it becomes a fire hazard where fire can jump through the seams directly to the stud behind it, in commercial applications where metal studs are used this is not a hazard.

That doesn't make sense. The **** seams will be thinner as they lay on top of the stud. I don't install DW vertically, but if I did, the beveled edges would provide a thicker mud seam on the studs.

As for fire, the ceiling joints and top corners are the most critical. No one runs DW parallel to the joists. No one.

So I say your myth is busted.

If anyone has ever run a bazooka and mudbox, they know why DW is installed horizontally. They'd hang 24' long sheets if they could get it.
 
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