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Drywall not screwed to studs?

GirlnAgarage

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Looking more intensely at the drywall in the garage, I notice that sections of my drywall are not connected to the studs throughout the entire sheet. There are nails only at the edge of the piece of drywall. As a result the drywall has bowed away from the face of the stud and creates a gap. Some areas as much as an inch :headscrat

Is that normal practice? I thought screws should be placed every 16" top to bottom on every vertical stud?

Since nails were used, is it possible the drywall has pulled away from the stud but left the nail in place, essentially tearing the nail through the backside of the drywall?

Also, seems like the gap would create a lot of airflow in there even with the pink insulation. Is that right? With the master bedroom above the garage with its own temperature problems, can this be contributing to those temp fluctuations?
 
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foss

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I'm not an expert, but I would think you should get some drywall screws and secure the drywall tight to the studs. I think it will only get worse.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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I'm not an expert, but I would think you should get some drywall screws and secure the drywall tight to the studs. I think it will only get worse.



That's what I was thinking too.


And it's the same with the ceiling. There's a section of it that is sagging. There is also water stains from past things, likely a leaky toilet seal from the upstairs bathroom immediately above or a bad drain from the HVAC unit sharing the wall.
 

csp

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Some previous owner was an idiot. That's the only explanation.

Shoot some screws in it just enough to get below the surface, but not so far as to tear through the paper.
 

Cuda

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A lot of drywall contractors today are glueing the drywall in the field of the sheetrock and only using screws along the perimeter. It saves them labor on doing the mud work later I guess. First time I saw it done I was unimpressed. Your's is the first one I have heard failing though. Unless they didn't even bother to glue it.
 

creativecars

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It may be a good time to remove, add insulation if needed, and some vapor barrier. Otherwise find where the studs are and screw in some sheetrock screws. If you don’t, the weight of itself will continue to pull it away until it completely falls off.
 

bchee

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Not trying to alarm you but is there any evidence of wood-eating insects behind the drywall?
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Some previous owner was an idiot. That's the only explanation.

Shoot some screws in it just enough to get below the surface, but not so far as to tear through the paper.


You have no idea how many ties we have said that in two years.


A lot of drywall contractors today are glueing the drywall in the field of the sheetrock and only using screws along the perimeter. It saves them labor on doing the mud work later I guess. First time I saw it done I was unimpressed. Your's is the first one I have heard failing though. Unless they didn't even bother to glue it.


House was built in '85 but the way some sections of the drywall look, the PO did some work himself. Having discovered and fixed other handy work of his, the PO has lovingly been named Captain Halfass.

The only reason I discovered the drywall bowing is we cut a patch to check a leak we kept hearing in the wall. The patch was located over two vertical studs so when I screwed that in the edges were extremely misaligned. It looked like a giant fault line. I screwed down the drywall above and below the patch to help align it. I need to screw down east and west of the patch and rest the rest of the wall after I get the couple of shelving units pulled out of the way.


sounds like someone ran out of screws:lol_hitti:dunno: then :3gears: the hell outa there:wtf:


What is the joke, it was built on a Friday or a Monday? :lol_hitti

It may be a good time to remove, add insulation if needed, and some vapor barrier. Otherwise find where the studs are and screw in some sheetrock screws. If you don’t, the weight of itself will continue to pull it away until it completely falls off.


I think I'll add screws for the meanwhile. Our original plan was to pull all wall and ceiling drywall and insulate. But a new HVAC two weeks ago put that on hold for the next year.


Not trying to alarm you but is there any evidence of wood-eating insects behind the drywall?

No evidence of wood-eating insects in the wall. We cut out a peek patch looking for a water leak so we were able to see the condition of the immediate studs. They looked clear.
 
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MoonRise

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Yes, drywall is SUPPOSED to be installed with nails and/or screws throughout the entire panel as well as along the edges.

Sometimes, adhesive is used as WELL as the mechanical fasteners.

Missing fasteners? Idiot or screw-up (Hah, get it? :lol_hitti ) previously. A semi-honest mistake would be for the drywall installers to nail along the seams while they installed the panels and then 'forget' to go back and install all the 'field' fasteners. Although how in the heck can one NOT see that the field fasteners are not there?
 

cowboyjosh

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Any romex between the rock and studs? Some hacks and uninformed diyers will sometimes run romex on top of the studs and then glue rock right to the studs!

Your not stupid, i reckon youll check to make sure noting is between the studs and rock before re screwing, i just wanted to put the warning out there of what ive run into.
 

Vicegrip

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Yes, drywall is SUPPOSED to be installed with nails and/or screws throughout the entire panel as well as along the edges.

Sometimes, adhesive is used as WELL as the mechanical fasteners.

Missing fasteners? Idiot or screw-up (Hah, get it? :lol_hitti ) previously. A semi-honest mistake would be for the drywall installers to nail along the seams while they installed the panels and then 'forget' to go back and install all the 'field' fasteners. Although how in the heck can one NOT see that the field fasteners are not there?

Bingo. Glue and screw is the best! Fewer nail pops and corner cracks. IIRC you can use less screws if you glue but I do both especially on ceilings.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Any romex between the rock and studs? Some hacks and uninformed diyers will sometimes run romex on top of the studs and then glue rock right to the studs!

Your not stupid, i reckon youll check to make sure noting is between the studs and rock before re screwing, i just wanted to put the warning out there of what ive run into.


:shocking: You've found that?? That's a pretty serious lazy *** job. Any way to check that without pulling the drywall off? I don't think he'd have taken the time to run romex or else he would have added more outlets and not run 18' of seven 16ga wires through PVC zigzagging along the walls to the one outlet on the front wall just to power the pain in the rear sprinkler control box and system. :willy_nil


Yes, drywall is SUPPOSED to be installed with nails and/or screws throughout the entire panel as well as along the edges.

Sometimes, adhesive is used as WELL as the mechanical fasteners.

Missing fasteners? Idiot or screw-up (Hah, get it? :lol_hitti ) previously. A semi-honest mistake would be for the drywall installers to nail along the seams while they installed the panels and then 'forget' to go back and install all the 'field' fasteners. Although how in the heck can one NOT see that the field fasteners are not there?


True could be an honest mistake. I can see that happening. I wonder if the mud & tape guy wondered why he had so much leftover product :headscrat
 
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SuperSocket

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I wish they have a law where you could go back and sue PO for shotty work like that which could end up killing you or severely injuring a person.


Ugh, I hate hackjobs like this, now the OP has to spend who knows how much time redoing all those screws and perhaps even ripping out the sheetrock because it may already be damaged from the sag too much.
 

rquackenbush

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I agree with the advice here - add some screws, spackle and repaint. Just make sure you continuously cuss out whoever put up the drywall like that. It'll make you feel a little better. :)
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Thanks for all the suggestions gentlemen. I'll get things screwed down soon. I'm prepping and painting the other two walls now. Once that's done I'll be building shelves and I can get the stuff unloaded from those floor shelving units and have full clear access to the north wall.


:beer:
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Just for fun, here's a quick video look at some drywall movement. These nails are 14.5" away from the corner of the wall. (This is about 3' away from the really bowed section).




It wouldn't surprise me if in the bad section the drywall has completely pulled the nails through. Nails might have actually been used, but they're pretty much not very effective anymore.
 
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cashishift

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Just for fun, here's a quick video look at some drywall movement. These nails are 14.5" away from the corner of the wall. (This is about 3' away from the really bowed section).




It wouldn't surprise me if in the bad section the drywall has completely pulled the nails through. Nails might have actually been used, but they're pretty much not very effective anymore.

I'd probably just rip that stuff off the wall and start over.

Might as well add some electrical outlets while you are there. :beer:
 

Frank The Plumber

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Take a 4 foot long stud, push it against the wall until it snugs the sheet to the wall and screw in a bunch of screws 12" OC from top to bottom along the stud, this will keep the screws from pulling the sheet back and prevent tear out. Some goof just wanted to go drink his lunch and ran out on screwing the wall board. I can hear him saying. " Ah fuc% it, it's only a garage"
 

59 wagon man

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not sure but i think it something like 6" in the field 12" on the edge or maybe the other way i'm a plumber not a carpenter but you def need more screws
 
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