Drywall Question

[ms fowler]

Last year I moved to a house with a detached 30'X40' garage. Yeah!! It was even partially finished. The owner insulated the walls with 4" of rigid foam in the stud cavities and then dry-walled the walls. What he failed to do was drywall the ceiling. Now I am ready to put the drywall on the ceiling and blow-in some insulation to make it a year-round shop.
When he installed the drywall, he pushed it tight to the bottom of the trusses. Normally, you put the ceiling drywall up first and then the wall drywall supports the edge of the ceiling drywall making for a good joint. My question---what is the best way to support the ceiling drywall edges now? Is there a tool that can cut 1/2" to 5/8" from the ceiling so I can slide the drywall into that space?

Or--am I overthinking it, and should just **** the drywall to the wall and screw it in place and then tape it?

 

[MushCreek]

You could remove a strip with an oscillating multi-tool, but it would take forever. Plus, it would be a pain to slip the ceiling panels into place. I would just install the ceiling (5/8"), then put up a 1X4 'crown' molding to support the edges better. Probably quicker and easier than finishing the corners with mud, or at least it would be for me.

 

[RWorth]

You're over thinking it, the only sheet that benefits from the support is the edge sheets, all the sheets that don't reach the wall have no support. Screw it, tape it and mud it.

 

[sierradmax]

Get fancy - Crown moulding nailed to studs & ferring/trusses. No need to tape the corners

 

[rustyjames]

I would just install the drywall. You can always add trim later.

 

[APEowner]

Install nailers along the unsupported edged before you put the drywall up.

 

[astroracer]

I have to ask what your truss spacing is. 16"? 24"? Anything over 24 and you may want to add strapping to support the wallboard.
Mark

 

[DougWil]

Install nailers along the unsupported edged before you put the drywall up.

^Correct. An unsupported edge at the corner creates cracks in the joint. One of the big benefits of a finished and painted interior is stopping air infiltration and vapor retardation with a good layer of latex paint.

You don't want cracks, or penetrations through the ceiling at the place where the warmest and most humid air is trying to escape into a cold attic space where it can cause more problems especially if this is a heated/cooled shop/garage.

 

[BreeStephany]

Install nailers along the unsupported edged before you put the drywall up.

^ CORRECT ^ I definitely agree. If you are doing anything past fire taping with the garage and want a "finished" look, add backing between the ceiling joists and then screw the drywall to the joists and to the backing strips to ensure your corners don't crack.

Putting up backing can be a bit time consuming if your on a ladder and by yourself... so find a friend with a scaffold with wheels, give them a case of beer and ask them for an hour or so of their time... you measure, they cut, you nail, they move the scaffold. Its amazing how quick things like that can go with a second person.

 

[KnurledNut]

Or--am I overthinking it, and should just **** the drywall to the wall and screw it in place and then tape it?

Yes.
Glue it.
Screw it.
1/2 rock for 16oc.
5/8 rock for 24oc.
Double screws through the field. Holds better and muds easier.

Are you putting up a vapor barrier before you rock?
If you are using cellulose insulation you dont always need one.
But for fiberglass, i would recommend it, especially in your climate.

 

[buddyboy]

like rworth said

there is nothing holding the edges in the field of the ceiling sheets and they don't crack.

if you can you should always put ceiling up first and let the wall sheets support the edges, but if you can't (like in your case) it's not a deal breaker

run the sheets the correct direction across those joists and glue and screw just like you're supposed to and you'll be fine

of course if you're on 24" centers and are concerned that the ceiling wall edge might be wavy davy, then put some nailer blocking along that edge, but if you use board that is thick enough and rated for not sagging you shouldn't need to worry about that

good luck

 

[Falcon67]

Get fancy - Crown moulding nailed to studs & ferring/trusses. No need to tape the corners

This - "farm house" style is just using a regular 1x4 as your crown mold. It'll look fancy schmansy.

 

[Radix2]

Just install and tape as normal.

I don't agree that not having the overlap or wood will cause cracks. There are even installers that recommend not screwing board close to corners specifically to allow some flex there as the wood moves to avoid cracks.

The mud and tape is plenty strong - cracks are from structural movement mainly.

 

[the gypsy]

Wow! When people say great minds think alike, they must be talking about BreeStephany and rockeyroktrer. They said the same thing in a different lingo. Amazing

 

[Gerald O]

Yes.
Glue it.
Screw it.
1/2 rock for 16oc.
5/8 rock for 24oc.
Double screws through the field. Holds better and muds easier.

Disagree with the doubled field screws if gluing because there's no benefit, and I do recommend gluing.

 

[Git]

I would consider using some blocking

Here is a way you could save from having to tape the corners

It's called a 'tear away L bead'
http://www.trim-tex.com/products/overview/commercial-beads/tear-away-beads/tear-away-l-bead/

You staple the perforated part to the face of the ceiling drywall. The tear away part would be up against your walls. Where the tear away part attaches to the bead - you can see a little ridge that your drywall knife rides on as you cover the bead with mud. When you're done, you tear away the part that sticks down and you have a nice finished edge. No taping and you do not have to do anything with the walls

 

[ms fowler]

WOW!! Thanks for all the replies. As usual, for me, I was solving a problem that didn't really exist. OK, so nailers in the corners. Screw and glue. Trusses at 24: oc
I read somewhere that a good coat of paint is an effective vapor barrier. I plan to paint everything off white for the reflective value. If that eliminates the need for vapor barrier, so much the better.