Drywall questions

[burninghXcsoul]

Just about finished with the first coat of drywall mud and tape. I'm no expert for sure on this. I've been using hot mud and tape and have been following tips so I put it thin so as to not have to do alot of sanding.

Already from what I can tell the walls look pretty flat. I'm thinking I might just have to put a second coat on. If I only do 2 coats vs 3 will my walls look like ***? I just don't want to prime and paint and then have it look horrible. My main concern is the ceiling, the walls will probably have shelves and other stuff up against them so most of that I anticipate being covered. My main concern is time put in it mainly being a 30x40 and its just me doing it by myself.

Also whats a good drywall primer to use? I bought 10 gallons of exterior latex from lowes when ours was closed. I'm assuming I should still use a primer with this because from what I've read the drywall will **** up alot of paint.

 

[jeffmattero76]

2 coats might work, but 3 would definitely be better. I typically use green pre-mixed joint compound for the last coat since I find it easier to sand than the quickest type. You could prime it, and then see how it looks. If you don't like it, you can always put another coat of mud on top of the primer.
I use Kilz2 as a primer. It does a great job, in my opinion. Check the 2 gallon price since it is usually cheaper per gallon than the 5 gallon at Home Depot.
Flat paint will hide more defects than a paint with a sheen, especially on a ceiling. If I paint the ceiling and walls with the same paint, as I do in my rentals, I usually choose bone white in an eggshell finish. Eggshell is a little easier to clean.
In my own house, I use flat ceiling white on the ceiling, and then Eggshell color on the walls.
Good luck.

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[Kaizen]

Def 3. You should be using 3 width knives as well ending with a 12” on the 3rd coat. Use flat paint. Semi gloss shows every imperfection


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[Hot Rod Grampa]

Ditto on the 3 coats. I like to use the lite compound in the blue top bucket. I have always used PVA primer on new Sheetrock. PVA primer is specifically designed, as I understand it, to seal the pores of the paper and joint compound. And yes you will see imperfections after the primer goes on. Hit it again and prime again. A tip I learned was to tint the primer a tad so you can easier see spots you miss or places you repaired. After all that White you end up seeing spots even with your eyes closed!

 

[Whitworth]

2 coats will look noticeable from a distance. You'll want 3 to 3 1/2 coats. What I mean by 3 & 1/2 coats is a spot coat after the 3rd to fill in the defects that don't disappear after sanding the 3rd coat.

You'll want to feather out more than you think. For tapered edge joints, 10" each side of the joint, if not more. For **** joints maybe 15" each side.

For the ceiling, the same but any tiny defect will be noticeable. You'll want a source of oblique light to highlight your work. A worklight on a stand is good.

 

[rburke65]

I’ve always been told...seen...3 coats. 4”....8”....12”

 

[paredown]

The last pro I worked with did the 1/2 coat while sanding--so as he found imperfections on coat three, he would stop and spot fill so he didn't lose track.

(I used to keep a pencil handy and mark areas that needed a touch up, but I like his method better.)

For the OP, there is less shrinkage typically with hot mud--but you will see variations with only two coats...

 

[Bretny]

Take a light and shine it across the walls/ceiling. Not at them across them. You can find inperfections easily this way.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The last pro I worked with did the 1/2 coat while sanding--so as he found imperfections on coat three, he would stop and spot fill so he didn't lose track.

(I used to keep a pencil handy and mark areas that needed a touch up, but I like his method better.)

For the OP, there is less shrinkage typically with hot mud--but you will see variations with only two coats...

I used the pencil method when I did our utility room.

 

[Git]

Take a light and shine it across the walls/ceiling. Not at them across them. You can find inperfections easily this way.

This. A 'raking' light (light source is parallel to the surface) really shows up the problem areas. Then use a pencil to mark them. You might consider using a 'topping compound' instead of the hot mud on your final coats. Topping compound does not shrink as much and is easier to work with (sand)

 

[Bluedodge]

Do 3 coats.
You may be tempted to call it good enough, but the imperfections will bug you later.
I vote for semi-gloss; looks better, easier to wipe down, fewer spider webs, reflects light better....

 

[MoonRise]

Full 3 coats of joint compound, with each coat done with a wider knife.

Nice thin coats, don't try for perfection on the first coat either.

Try smoothing with a damp sponge instead of sanding.

Primer? Last time I just used PVA drywall primer. Two coats of PVA primer, first coat gets sucked up like crazy and second coat starts to get some coverage. Especially the difference between the paper on the drywall itself versus the joint compound. Then two coats of top coat. The primer ls less expensive than the paint.

10 gallons of paint to do a 30x40 ft building? Not including ceiling, and running some quick rough numbers at 10 ft high walls, you might barely have enough paint for ONE coat.

 

[couch67]

raking the light is a good idea but if you can afford the time, after you have the prime coat on, see how it looks in different light levels, morning and during the day. long walls where natural light washes along, middle of the ceiling, and areas directly under pot lights are common areas where defects really stand out.

Note the defects or lightly mark them with a pencil, then hit them all at once. Stretches out the job but gives you time to find all the nagging issues before getting final paint going.

 

[spike99250]

For the touch up spots, mix a little blue chalk in the mud. Makes them stand out and easier to find.

 

[ItsNemo]

There's more options than flat or semi-gloss. The range is basically:

- Flat/Matte
- Eggshell
- Satin
- Semi Gloss
- Gloss

I usually do eggshell in most living spaces except kitchens or bathrooms which benefit from a bit more gloss to make cleaning up easier. Semi-gloss goes in the garage though where I don't care about the imperfections and mostly about cleanup and brightness.

 

[pcmeiners]

No way you can get away with 2 coats.

Take a light and shine it across the walls/ceiling. Not at them across them. You can find inperfections easily this way.

Agree, I use 2 sources of light, fluorescent and incandescent, either will show imperfections the other will not. Shine the ight at an angle to the wall, not directly in front of you.

 

[rustedgoat]

I bought 10 gallons of exterior latex from lowes when ours was closed.

Don't use exterior paint indoors. They are two different products. It will have a horrible smell.

 

[Cougar]

Definitely minimum 3 coats.
Any less and you will have areas that look like ****.