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Drywall repair question - gouges

will gilmore

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Oct 11, 2009
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Removed some shelf supports which were glued and screwed on. Glue pulled out some chunks. Biggest so far is about 2" across 1/8" deep. I've patched small holes and seams between pieces of drywall. Just mud over it? Do I need tape or mesh? Any special surface prep beforehand?

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hefnerconstructionlc

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Cut your sealant back nice, cut the loose torn paper facing. Sand area to be patched just as smooth as possible. Sander with shop vac, works well. If lead paint, then wet sanding and safe methods would be advised. Once smooth, then just use blue-lightweight compound and smooth out. Will probably take 4-5 thin coats to really do a nice job.
 

Dirtydan69

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San Tan Valley, AZ
I would also add that the areas where the paper face has been removed, brown spots, should be primed first birth Bin or Kilz. Before patching otherwise your mud will bubble and keep showing bad spots. I also prefer either dura bond or easy sand that you mix yourself for first coat, at minimum. Will provide you with a more lasting end result. I rarely use direct mud out of a bucket. Mostly just for texture. Easy sand 20, 20 minute set time, is what I use most. For the inexperienced though I would say use 45.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Run across this several times during remodeling projects- mostly from removing plate mirror from walls. The mastic will pull the paper just like that-

I always cut the loose paper away, prime with Kilz (oil based- it won't wrinkle the paper from absorb ion) to seal the area, two coats of 20min compound, then a skim coat of regular compound, sand, and then prime with PVA primer- ready for paint.

I've used this technique on tears that were 1/8-1/4" deep- just takes a bit more time/coats of compound to complete.
 
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Kevin54

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I always cut back all of the paper. Not only the white loose paper but also the brown paper. I then use mud and let it bond to the actual drywall. I've never had a problem doing it that way.

But one thing you want to do is get the caulking off, especially if it is silicone caulk. Then you'll have to sand the area where the caulk was. If it ruffles up the white paper but not go through, then I would paint it, then put a real light skim coat of mud over it then sand it all smooth. You may have to feather it out some to cover the line left from the caulk.
 
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will gilmore

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Thanks guys.

DirtyDan69 - You're saying primer before mud? Any special product or the same thing you would use over drywall?

I've never used the setting type joint compound but I'm curious. I'll see what my local hardware store has.
 
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four.cycle

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Oct 19, 2015
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Tacoma, Washington
csp said:
"...primer before mud?"

yes. emphatically yes.
oil based preferably (as noted above.)

If I was doing it I would:
Cut the paper back to the point where it is firmly attached to the gypsum board. Don't screw around wasting time sanding first. Prime with Kilz or other oil-based primer. Allow to dry. Lay a skin of mud on and walk away. Sand. Lay on another layer of mud and allow to dry. Sand. Prime. Paint.
As noted above, get all that latex/silicone caulk out of your way first: putty knife, razor, can opener, whatever.

YMMV.
 

Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
Kiltz? Really. Have you not used zinsser products? Zinsser gardz is made for this application specifically. I am sorry but I consider kiltz utter trash.
 
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will gilmore

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Thanks for the help everybody. I ended up using kilz and green top compound which was what was readily available to me. I thought I had matching paint but couldn't find it so that will be a project for another time or maybe never.20161224_102633.jpg



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