I am looking for some input regarding screw length for the installation of 1/2” drywall. I already did 2 of the 4 walls of my garage using 1-5/8” screws and I have now come to learn that these are too long for 1/2” drywall and are more likely to cause screw pops in the future? Do any of you have any real world experience with this? Am I less likely to get pops with the longer screws because the wood is already quite dry (garage has been built for over a year but unfinished)? Any input would be appreciated.
Drywall screw length
- Thread starter Mike_72
- Start date
JRC3
Well-known member
Nah, I don't see a problem. Nope.
I don't ever recall hearing long screws cause heads to pop . not sure I would agree with the concept.
but usually 11/4 screws for 1/2"
but usually 11/4 screws for 1/2"
duneslider
Well-known member
1 5/8" is just fine but recently in helping my brother drywall his basement we did some time comparisons (aka. races) running 1 1/4" vs 1 5/8" also running a makita cordless drywall gun vs an impact with drywall dimple bit. Not surprising, you WILL save time running 1 1/4" screws and using a drywall gun. It saved significant time.
It's 50 percent more thread into the wood. of course it takes longer
ace10
Well-known member
Did you use glue?
JRC3
Well-known member
Meh, a bigger question would be, "Did you use that lightweight **** from HD and the like?"
dirtydrew420
Well-known member
I used 1 5/8 in my garage with half inch drywall. Coarse thread. Especially on the roof pitch/ceiling. That's what you want to do!
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acer66
Well-known member
This.
nadogail
Well-known member
I once listened to the sad tale told by a general contractor; he said his sub contractor had used screws that were too short and the whole building had to have all the drywall screws replaced. That building with five apartments was not a profitable job.
The subcontractor had used shorter screws because of the price difference. There are more short screws in a pound than there are long ones.
The Inspector earned his money on that job.
The subcontractor had used shorter screws because of the price difference. There are more short screws in a pound than there are long ones.
The Inspector earned his money on that job.
vavet
Well-known member
It seems like longer screws would have more holding power and less likely to develop pops. I'm not drywall expert.
I think I used 1-5/8" for the ceiling and 1-1/4" for the walls when I rocked my garage.
I think I used 1-5/8" for the ceiling and 1-1/4" for the walls when I rocked my garage.
strutaeng
Well-known member
Yep, the only downfall on longer screws is slightly more time to install. I did my house with 1 5/8" screws on 1/2 rock. No problems.
I've actually used the fine thread also on wood, and no problems. But fine thread is supposed to be used for metal studs and coarse thread for wood. For the little metal studs rocking I've done, I've actually used some self-tapping screws that I liked.
Anyways, looks like you were told an urban legend on longer screws causing "nail pops."
csp
Well-known member
I've love to hear the basis of the theory regarding nail pops. Sounds like an old wive's tale.
I know that my house is full of 1/2" with 1-5/8" screws with zero pops.
I know that my house is full of 1/2" with 1-5/8" screws with zero pops.
Will_Yetter
Well-known member
I'd run 1 5/8" screws with course thread and never look back
strutaeng
Well-known member
Nail pops only happen on nails, not screws, LOL.
Seriously, unless your house foundation is shifting all of the time (lot of areas around here with highly expansive soils from shrink-swell cycles), doesn't happen much with screws. More likely on nails though.
In other words, if you are getting nail pops in your drywall, you probably have bigger problems.
Seriously, unless your house foundation is shifting all of the time (lot of areas around here with highly expansive soils from shrink-swell cycles), doesn't happen much with screws. More likely on nails though.
In other words, if you are getting nail pops in your drywall, you probably have bigger problems.
burninghXcsoul
Well-known member
Screw pops have nothing to do with screw length, its from when you drive a screw in too far and crack the board or tear out the paper, then when the wall moves it causes the board to move past the screw because the screw isnt holding anything letting the board flex. The screw doesnt move, its the mud that pops out from the joint.
frankd
Well-known member
The longer screws wont cause any issues. They're just more annoying to install because they're longer.
Unfortunately that was all I could find around here. None of the big box stores carried anything but so I figured it was the norm. Can’t say I’m too happy with its strength, definitely seems a little more delicate than the old stuff.
No glue, I am using 6 mil poly vapor barrier so the glue wouldn’t work.
duneslider
Well-known member
Why waste time and money on 1 5/8" screws if 1 1/4 does the job? You aren't gaining anything with the longer screws. You need longer screws for 5/8 drywall. The screws will hold to the wood long after the drywall is ripped from the wall/ceiling.
Is there anything wrong with using 1 5/8 with 1/2" sheetrock, of course not, but you gain zero advantage by doing it. So, if you are going to buy screws then save some money and time by getting the shorter ones.
I too am curious about what is wrong with the lightweight drywall? I welcomed it when it came out, I would rather lift lightweight over standard any day and I haven't come across many large disadvantages. Sound transmission seems higher with it and slightly harder to cut but for the most part its great.
Is there anything wrong with using 1 5/8 with 1/2" sheetrock, of course not, but you gain zero advantage by doing it. So, if you are going to buy screws then save some money and time by getting the shorter ones.
I too am curious about what is wrong with the lightweight drywall? I welcomed it when it came out, I would rather lift lightweight over standard any day and I haven't come across many large disadvantages. Sound transmission seems higher with it and slightly harder to cut but for the most part its great.
^^^ well said
I had to shim a few of the studs so I just grabbed the 1 5/8” screws to account for any areas where additional length would be needed. Happy to hear it won’t be an issue and I will be using 1 1/4” going forward. I’d also like to know more about the disadvantages of the USG (or CGC here in Canada) ultralight drywall. I have very little experience with drywall so my thoughts aren’t worth much.
duneslider
Well-known member
If you had to shim some studs, the longer screws would be needed there. Technically, you are supposed to have 5/8" penetration into the wood. You can us 1 3/8" with 1/2" and some shimming but 1 3/8" aren't nearly as common.
I have a big bucket of 1 5/8 that I have been working through, but if a bigger job comes up I will buy another bucket of 1 1/4.
nadogail
Well-known member
I have heard of instances where double 5/8" drywall was needed to meet Fire Codes.
Don't lose any sleep over the 1-5/8" screws. It'll be fine. I used to use 1-5/8" screws any time I put up sheetrock (which was mostly 1/2"), and I never had any screwheads pop. That said, I've since switched over to 1-1/4" screws whenever I'm working with 1/2" rock. They have more than enough holding power, and you get more of them per pound. Like others have said though- you should definitely use 1-5/8" for 5/8" material.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
OP, Why did you listen to such blather? Don’t listen to that trash.
I am usually pretty good at filtering through the trash that makes up much of the Internet, but when I read that even USG recommends the use of 1-1/4” screws up to 5/8” drywall for increased resistance to screw pops that’s when I started second guessing.
3onthetree
Well-known member
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- Nov 14, 2018
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You probably won't have issues with a longer screw as a DIYer doing a smaller job. Nothing wrong with listening to "never had a problem" but its good to make decisions armed with the right info to start with . . . . .
USG handbook I believe is the bible of drywall. Like a recipe on the back of a food box, manufacturers have researched and tested the proper way for their product to work.
Using too long of fasteners can ("can," not always) be less consistent in driving straight and be susceptible to have more pops. As USG states, the Forest Products Lab and Purdue University studied the length of nails where lumber shrinkage causes pops. When shrinkage occurs, a gap is formed between the wood and drywall. Using the shortest possible nail, while still having adequate holding power, kept this gap smaller and lessened pops. Using a screw instead of a nail lessens pops to begin with, but you can interpolate that a too-long screw, having even more holding power, and especially when installed at a slight angle, will have more stress applied to the screw and may result in a pop.
So for wood attachment USG calls for Type W (coarse) 1 1/4" screws for 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8" gypsum board.
Also 1/2" lightweight drywall is not delicate, it is stiffer and rated to span 24" o.c. It's not a special Home Depot product of lesser quality, it was first created by USG and now that manufacturers have equivalent fire ratings available, "lightweight" will probably become the only products available in the future.
JRC3
Well-known member
Tell that to the lightweight drywall, I think it missed the bulletin. LOL
I love how when you hang it it just makes a cracking noise for an hour or two afterwards, probably from it breaking down around the screws. I also love when there is any twist or imperfection in the lumber how the screws want to pull through the paper easier. Not to mention how easy it is to dent when it's bumped.
Just because it's becoming the standard that does not make it better. Look at how much MDF is being used for trim these days, even in high end homes. One good bump blows out a corner and any incidental water will make it bloat or flake.
Because they cost less to ship...And pros will use it because it makes there job easier, not because it is better finished product, more productive means more money.
Also USG says Ultrlight has superior sag resistance on 24", that doesn't mean it's stonger, it just means it weighs less so it doesn't sag. They also also say the product is "stronger pound-for-pound than standard 1/2-inch drywall." See what they did there?
ovilla
Well-known member
#8 - 1 1/4 COARSE thread screws for 1/2” drywall over wooden studs
#8 - 1 1/4 FINE THREAD screws for 1/2” drywall over metal studs
#8 - 1 1/4 FINE THREAD screws for 1/2” drywall over metal studs
3onthetree
Well-known member
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You can say that about a lot of things. We use nominal lumber instead of full dimensional. EIFS instead of lathed stucco. Stamped metal door knobs instead of cast. Manufacturers can only keep making what consumers keep buying.