Drywall tape

[JackOfDiamonds]

I have a small drywall project (6 sheets).

Should I use paper tape or the fiberglass mesh type of tape?

Also, for small jobs like this do you think it's better to buy small tubs of mud pre-mixed, or mix up from powder? Last time I did drywall I had lots of trouble getting chunks in the mud and making streaks. I thought maybe mixing fresh mud every time might prevent chunk formation.

 

[The Cobbler]

I like paper tape, bed it with mud & coat with hot mix .I if you use mesh I would do first coat in hot mix ( setting type, powder)
I always buy boxes of premix & mix it with a mixer. don;t put back compound and keep it closed to keep **** out of it.

 

[Bogie1632]

Stick with paper. It is stronger. Some of the premixed small tubs aren't all that great, some are good. If you mix up from dry you can make what you need and the rest wont go bad...as long as you store it dry. I've had stored premixed go bad over time and dry last years until I used it all.

V/R
Bogie

 

[mike93lx]

Paper for pre mix, fiber for hot mix.

If you use pre mix with fiber, it will crack.

The hot mix stuff saves a lot of time, but there is something nice about not having to screw around with getting the mix right and it forces you to take a break between coats, giving you time to swear that this is the last time you will ever do drywall work

 

[PossumDog]

I use 'fibafuse' tape instead of paper tape. Thinner than mesh.
Mixing from powder I understand to be stronger and use for the first coat with tape or repairs. Mud in bucket is for subsequent coats and easier to smooth and sand.
Chunks in mud? - you can add a little water to dilute the mud. Use a drill attachment to mix. Take out of bucket and into pan, never put old stuff back into bucket. Wipe clean tools periodically. Usually when I find myself chasing streaks and chunks it's time to take a break and start over later.
Paul Peck on youtube has countless good DIY videos.

 

[nadogail]

I do so little drywall work that I prefer self adhesive mesh tape and dry quick setting mud in a bag. I fill a clear container, like laundry soap comes in, to store the quick setting mud in and use a mud tray and a broad tape knife for mixing and applying the mud in thin coats. The clear plastic jug keeps the dry mud powder and my van clean and I never have to guess about how much is is in the jug.

A damp sponge quickly smooths the applied mud and all most eliminates sanding.

 

[Viper98912]

As a novice, I've always used paper tape with the green premix tub.

 

[Whitworth]

I'd recommend paper tape and pre-mix.
Unless you're experienced, powdered will be a problem with open time and getting a smooth coat without obvious transitions between batches.
When I am using powdered I mix in a five gallon tub with a power mixer in a drill, cures the lumps problem.
Mesh tape is fine but also can telegraph on occasion.

 

[CoogarXR]

I've done a few drywall jobs. I hate it, and I still consider myself a novice. That being said, I use the paper tape. I tried the mesh once, and I didn't do it right, and it kept showing on the surface. I probably had too much mud under it. Anyway, it sucked, I ****, etc.

 

[mike93lx]

If you do use premix, you should still mix it up right before using it.

I had some pros do my last house in blueboard and veneer plaster. I am never doing anything bigger than a patch again. They were light-years better and faster than what I could do and the finish is so much nicer.

 

[billconner]

The veneer plaster systems are fantastic. Way nicer than drywall. Not inexpensive. Definitely not diy.

 

[mike93lx]

The veneer plaster systems are fantastic. Way nicer than drywall. Not inexpensive. Definitely not diy.

Not as expensive as I expected. I had about 1500 sq ft of ceiling blueboarded and plastered, half smooth, half textured, for $3k all in. Another 500 sq ft with texture was about a grand. That was this past spring, too.

They guys did the 500 sq ft (my garage) in less than 2 hrs. It was wild.

Absolutely not diy or for beginners. The finish they achieved on the smooth ceilings was incredible

 

[Bucko]

If you go with premix stay away from the boxes and go with the big bucket. Nearly impossible to not have it dry to the exposed parts of plastic in-between use. I only use the boxes if I am using it for texture and will use the whole box at once. If the only option was the box I would put it into a bucket.

The fiber-mesh is more rookie friendly and you can tape off the whole area and then mix some powder for the first coat. As soon as you see it start to cook off you need to stop and wash everything up. Use the 45 minute to give you enough time. If you have ever used body filler it reacts the same way in cook off.

 

[Mekks082]

Like others have said, Paper for full sheets/new install. Mesh for repairs.

Premix is fine for new install, I tend to use hot/powder on first coat repairs though.

The trick to the pre mix buckets, after your done with it.... clean the edge/sides of the bucket really well and then smooth out the top so its semi flat. Toss 1/4th inch of water on top to keep it from drying out. I like to water down my pre mix before I used it also.

 

[e36jon]

I used a bucket of 'topping compound' and managed to screw it up before I even got started. I had bought a lovely mixing attachment for my drill and used it to get the bucket-o-compound ready to go. When I started putting it on the wall I kept getting these streaks with debris in them. Wait for it. Turns out my new mixer had burrs in a few spots so I was machining little plastic bucket spirals and distributing them evenly throughout my 5 gallon bucket-o-mud. Sigh.

Anyway, it lead to me buying powder and mixing myself which turned out to be great/easy/better. The pre-mix was always way too thick which I didn't realize, so the powder allowed me to get the 'almost-falls-off-the-blade' consistency that has lead to much better results. I am also a fiber-tape guy and love it. Paper and I never clicked.

 

[PoorUB]

I am surprised at how many use paper tape. I quit using it years ago when I had a bunch of separation on a fairly large job I was doing. Went to mesh and zero issues.
As far as mud, I buy it in the bucket, but I forget which one.

 

[Augus7us]

Not a pro but I've done a lot of drywall work at the homestead the past few years.

I buy premix in a box, dump it in a five gallon bucket and add a sponge of water and mix. Only paper tape, I'll use fiber mesh if I'm patching a small hole. Pancake batter consistency so it floats under the tape, if not you'll get bubbles.

 

[yatg]

The trick to the pre mix buckets, after your done with it.... clean the edge/sides of the bucket really well and then smooth out the top so its semi flat. Toss 1/4th inch of water on top to keep it from drying out. I like to water down my pre mix before I used it also.

Put in more water, like 1/2", and a tablespoon of bleach. Keeps the nasties out if you're not going to use it right away. Then next time, pour off the water and mix it up.

Prefer Fibafuse tape, this stuff. Its a fine fiberglass mesh that the mud really binds to.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Saint-Gobain-ADFORS-FibaFuse-2-0625-in-x-250-ft-Mesh-Construction-Joint-Tape/4411371

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Do you put mud underneath and over top the FibaFuse tape, just like paper tape, or do you just put mud over top of it, like mesh tape? And do you use setting mud or regular mud? I'm told you have to use setting mud with mesh tape.

 

[billconner]

Will have to try this. Looks like same as paper tape use. Seems setting type compounds (EasySand, etc.) are desirable. Looks like it doesn't do well on inside corners.

 

[PossumDog]

I use fibafuse tape.
Put on quick set mud on the seams, then put the tape on. It is like mesh in that the mud can flow through the holes in the tape. But much thinner and more flexible than mesh. I use quick set for first bedding coat only, mud in a bucket for later coats.
I use fibafuse for inside corners only without problem. They used to have a seam down the middle for easier folding like paper tape but not the last few rolls I got.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Ok last drywall question. I have bamboo flooring that's like 3/4" thick. But I will probably put in vinyl plank floors later, which might either go on top the bamboo (making it 3/8" taller still) or replace it (making it 3/8 lower). My wall is built onto the subfloor now. So there's hardly any baseplate showing above the bamboo to screw the drywall to, since the baseplate is sunk 3/4 deep.

Should I:

1. Cut out the bamboo and slide drywall down to 1/2" above subfloor (thus 1/4" BELOW the level of the current bamboo floor) so I can screw it to the wall baseplate

2. Leave a 1/4-1/2" gap between the bottom of the drywall and level of the bamboo floor. This will put the drywall barely overlapping the bottom plate of the wall. I won't be able to screw it between studs unless I add blocking. If I add floor on top of the bamboo later, it will be fine. If I change to thinner flooring later, there will be a retarded big gap, but the baseboard will cover it anyway.

I'm leaning towards #2.

 

[mike93lx]

#2

 

[billconner]

Can you add blocking top of plate?

If you can't anchor a block if 2 x 4, what about slipping in a strip of metal blocking? a 2 to 3" strip onsub floor and projecting above plate would work fine.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

It's a bare wall now, but there's a lot of pipes and wires going down. So I can add furring strips to nail the drywall to but I can't really double the bottom plate at this point.

 

[Bogie1632]

Hit up a supply house near you (I rarely see this in the home centers unless they have a decent supply of metal studs). They should have 90° metal framing pieces that will work. It's often used for inside corners that lack framing to secure board to. Cuts with hand snips so its easy to work it around electrical or plumbing. Couple screws to the base plate, flush with the studs and you now have something sturdy to screw to.

Also, more often than not you'll save money at a supply house. My kitchen remodel was about 25% cheaper at the supply house versus the big blue or orange store. That was on board, mud, screws, 90°s, tape, and bead. My local supplier dooesn't care if your a contractor or DIYer...dollars is dollars. Just a thought for the future anyway.

V/R
Bogie

 

[billconner]

Should be easy to get some kind of blocking in. Just enough to get one fastener between each stud. A piece of 26 or so gage steel would work as well - like steel studs.

 

[reader2580]

The only issue with Fibafuse tape is you must wear nitrile or similar gloves when working with it. If not, your hands will be itchy and possibly full of fiberglass splinters.

 

[nadogail]

Reading about the experiences of those who posted is like watching a horse race, everyone has their own opinions and experiences.
If you have a way that works for you and gets acceptable results, then that is a good way to go.