Drywall thickness issue

[Gone Boating]

So I'm remodeling the family room and kitchen in the house and have run into an issue. Previously, the family room only had wood paneling on the one wall. The studs just so happen to stick out 1/2 inch further than the kitchen, and as a result, new drywall would stick out 1/2 inch further than the stuff I just installed in the kitchen. The problem wasn't an issue when the wood paneling from the family room continued into the kitchen, as it was perfectly even with the drywalled surface in the kitchen.

Any suggestions here? There has to be a product or something I don't know about. I hate the idea of tearing out the new drywall in the kitchen for thicker stuff. A half inch seems like a whole hell of a lot to try and transition with joint compound...

 

[Kaizen]

Add drywall in kitchen on that wall to get thickness close.


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[Copymutt]

If it helps, 1/4” drywall is common. Might be able to install it on just the adjacent piece and shim stock under it at the transition back to 1/2”. Had to do this to close a gap on timber frame posts. Won’t be noticeable over a 4’ run.
Jim

 

[tonyciambrone]

I don't think that math adds up...

If the drywall and wood panelling were flush as installed previous, how can the studs be 1/2" further out than the drywalled section?

Was the wood panelling only 1/8" thick, and there was 5/8" drywall in the kitchen? does the 1/2" transition take place with two studs sistered together offset? Or does the 1"2 transtion spac 16 or 24" between studs?

Pictures help...

Edit: I get it now, bad reading comprehension. I would just glue+screw another layer of 1/2" board in the Kitchen. Depending on what electrical you have swap the mudrings or prepare for a lot of outlet spacers.

 

[larry4406]

If it helps, 1/4” drywall is common. Might be able to install it on just the adjacent piece and shim stock under it at the transition back to 1/2”. Had to do this to close a gap on timber frame posts. Won’t be noticeable over a 4’ run.
Jim

+1..

 

[The Cobbler]

some pics might help, but I'm thinking build a a jog in the wall at the transition so you don't see the difference
example, lay a 2x4 on the flat at the transition, drywall around that and no one will notice the difference in the walls . it will look like a purposely made transition between the 2 rooms

 

[wssix99]

The solution is to double up and increase the thickness of the drywall on the shallower wall, so you have a completely even surface. (This is a normal practice. Or you can shim out the shallower studs - but this is usually a lot more effort.)

You can also get extension rings for your electrical boxes on the shallower wall to extend them through the thicker drywall.

 

[DFB]

Kind of hard to say with out seeing the actual layout but ya I would most likely recommend some type of board build out also to separate the two different walls were they meet

simple and effective

 

[romoman]

I see 3 options. Durabond (not compound), tapering the wall like mentioned, or building a faux column or vertical trim at the transition to hide the difference.

 

[dreamingmuscle]

1/4" drywall and 3/4" inch dry wall. Rip 1/2" plywood and attach to shallow studs. As said above you can taper the thick studs back a 1/8th" shallower each time till you get a good taper going.

If tapering the existing studs doesn't work. Rip some scrap 2x4's from 1/2" to 1/8" in 1/8th" increments and attach to the shallow studs. They don't have to be full ones, short scrap pieces will do. That's is if you not willing to shim the whole wall with 1/2" plywood pieces.

Couple of dozen options to choice from.

 

[QwikKotaTx]

A column about an inch deep makes a lot of sense.

 

[Bretny]

I still have a place like this in my kitchen. But it's new 2x4s vs real 2x4s. The ceiling is flat and angled on the other side. I still need to trim that area out. Although I haven't done it I think triming it out is the easiest.

 

[CraigStu]

I agree w/ several guys above, build a fake column. To me, that will be a lot less work than the other options