Drywall to ceiling gap

[btlegacy]

I started measuring everything last night for electrical, insulation, and drywall and noticed a gap at the top of the wall drywall. This drywall was already in place when I bought the house. There is about 1.5 inches gap from the top of the drywall to the ceiling. Whats the best way to work with this to be able to drywall the ceiling.

A 2x4 fits perfectly in the gap, should I run 2x4's perpendicularly across the whole ceiling?

Attach the ceiling drywall directly to the 2x6s and fill the gaps? Using 5/8 drywall will leave me with about a 7/8 gap?

 

[pattenp]

Drywall ceiling and use some wood trim to cover the gap.

 

[Andybull]

What room of the house is it? You can either nail 2x4, or 2x2 furring strips. Or install your ceiling driwall and cut strips of drywall to fill in the gap.
Adding furring strips will strenghthen the truss system.

 

[btlegacy]

The best room

I am thinking of the 2x4 route as long as it won't cause any sagging issues

 

[shawhite]

I would go with the 2x2 furing strip idea.

 

[SteveeP]

1 x 3 strapping @ 12" or 16" oc then 1/2" rock.

 

[mtmgtz]

1 x 3 strapping @ 12" or 16" oc then 1/2" rock.

I would either do this (your wood doesn't need to be 1.5 since your drywall thickness should be considered) or put up white crown moulding. Crown would probably cost less since it would take a lot of furring to do your entire ceiling. You won't lose 1 inch of ceiling height with crown either.

If you don't want to do traditional crown, you could just rip some bevels on 1 x 4's and put it up like crown.

An added bonus would be you wouldn't need to tape your ceiling/wall joint with crown (unless it's for fire separation).

 

[b-body-bob]

Drywall ceiling and use some wood trim to cover the gap.

^ this seems to be a workable idea. It'd save you some finishing work too.

It seems like it'd be easier than running 2x4's along the bottom of every 2x6 to space the ceiling down, probably cheaper too.

 

[Crushtang]

Drywall ceiling and use some wood trim to cover the gap.

I would either go this route or or if you planning on taping and mudding, just fill in the gap with small strips of drywall, the tape and mud will cover it.

 

[Modern Jess]

Theoretically, the ceiling drywall is supposed to be supported around the perimeter by the wall drywall. That's what I'm told, anyway. Furring strips could be used to lower the ceiling and eliminate the gap, but the rules of drywall suggest that you should use something less than 2x (1.5") furring strips so as to allow the ceiling drywall to sit on top of the wall drywall.

If it were me, I would put up 5/8" drywall, leaving a nominal 7/8" gap which I would fill with thin strips of drywall. I might even fill it with mud in places (before taping, obviously) if it were a bit less than that.

 

[lotsoftools]

I would drywall the ceiling as is, then use some simple trim for crown molding. In my shop bathroom, I used some 1 x 3 pine coated with urethane for the crown.

 

[evildky]

Pro mesh and quickset mud. This is why the ceiling traditionally is hung first. You can hide a lot fo sin wiht promesh and quick setting mud.

 

[7th Kahuna]

1 x 3 strapping @ 12" or 16" oc then 1/2" rock.

^ This sounds right to me with the note that if there is living space above any portion of the garage, the drywall should be 5/8" to act as a fire barrier. 16" on center is fine. The 'strapping' would run perpendicular to the existing trusses and the edges of the new drywall would sit on top of the drywall at the walls. If you prefer the 2x4 option, consider using 'hat channel'. It serves the same purpose without the weight and thus is a little easier to install. It is formed of sheet metal. You just need to make sure you beef up areas where you need to mount garage door openers, etc. If there is no structure above the garage and you don't mind a trim piece, that really is the easiest option. I hate mudding and taping corners. Use of a trim piece would avoid all that.

 

[enrare]

I second the suggestions to cut strips of drywall then tape and mud over it. Check out Fibafuse tape (not to be confused with FibaTape mesh tape). I'm using it in my house for a remodel project and like it WAY better than traditional paper or mesh tape. Only neg would be for your inside angles/corners you pretty much have to use one of those special inside corner tape knives because the edge of a standard taping knive will cut the stuff pretty easy if not careful until your first coat of mud is on. I have not been on FibaFuse web site for a bit, but they were sending out "samples" which was a 250' roll. FibaFusse can be found at HomeDepot and if memory recalls was priced a little more than paper but less than the mesh tapes.

 

[btlegacy]

I think I may do the strips of drywall and mud it all just so I am not losing any height. Thanks

 

[ACDNate]

Corner bead and mud it...

 

[Highbeam]

Thin strip of sheetrock would be so thin that it would crack and crumble when screwed. Just fill it with mud or even strips of plywood before finishing the joint.

 

[BigGMC]

Curious as to why there is a gap. Must be the builder didn't cut the studs to leave an 8' foot wall?

 

[JimVonBaden]

I started measuring everything last night for electrical, insulation, and drywall and noticed a gap at the top of the wall drywall. This drywall was already in place when I bought the house. There is about 1.5 inches gap from the top of the drywall to the ceiling. Whats the best way to work with this to be able to drywall the ceiling.

A 2x4 fits perfectly in the gap, should I run 2x4's perpendicularly across the whole ceiling?

Attach the ceiling drywall directly to the 2x6s and fill the gaps? Using 5/8 drywall will leave me with about a 7/8 gap?

Two layers of 5/8" should do it. Or, like the others said, add molding to cover it.

 

[enrare]

Good point, did not even think about that.

I guess another option would be to cut back the drywall on the walls 6" or so to avoid crumbling of the thin filler strips when fastened. Of course this option is more labor and time consuming and he would also need to add blocking between the studs for securing the drywall to.

Probably easiest is like mentioned and fill the gap with a setting compound then tape and mud over in when finishing the ceiling.

Thin strip of sheetrock would be so thin that it would crack and crumble when screwed. Just fill it with mud or even strips of plywood before finishing the joint.

 

[TommyK]

I would either go this route or or if you planning on taping and mudding, just fill in the gap with small strips of drywall, the tape and mud will cover it.

^^This^^

 

[Notgrownup]

Plain old 1 by strips will cover or use base boards upside down.

 

[PCO6]

I installed drywall on my walls and aluminum on my ceiling. I covered the gap with 1"x6" MDF. It made a good base for mounting my electrical and air lines.

View media item 42161

 

[Majordisorder]

Curious as to why there is a gap. Must be the builder didn't cut the studs to leave an 8' foot wall?

Framer probably used pre cut studs that are commonly 92-5/8" then no ceiling and starting the rock from the bottom leaves a gap at the top.

 

[wssix99]

Is this an attached garage? If so, you should have 2 layers of 5/8" for a total of 1 1/4".

 

[ACDNate]

Theres an idea. Put up some crown molding and get yourself a fancy garage

 

[btlegacy]

It is a detached garage. I like the MDF idea. I may have to think about that too

 

[CJCar]

I would either go this route or or if you planning on taping and mudding, just fill in the gap with small strips of drywall, the tape and mud will cover it.

Thin strip of sheetrock would be so thin that it would crack and crumble when screwed. Just fill it with mud or even strips of plywood before finishing the joint.

Thin strip of drywall glued in place - they make drywall adhesive for a reason.

Whatever method you choose, you want that seam sealed up - so if you do molding to hide the gap, caulk it top and bottom. You want the "envelope" closed to prevent drafts.

 

[Hpozzuoli]

Put some crown mouldings in and make it a sophisticated garage.

 

[pattenp]

That must be a Chicago thing since the great fire. Only one layer of 5/8" is required here on ceiling and common wall to house.

Is this an attached garage? If so, you should have 2 layers of 5/8" for a total of 1 1/4".

 

[scotw]

Install 5/8 inch type X sheetrock on ceiling.

Install 1/2 inch drywall strips to cover the gap. Doesn't have to look good, just fill it in the best you can.

Coat with drywall compound and imbed the following product. It has a metal core inside of paper sheets and will not come apart.

http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/1...ltra-flex-drywall-corners-reviews/reviews.htm

I did this on my garage 5 years ago and still looks perfect.

The ultraflex comes in various widths. Get one large enough to cover the filler strips. It is a two person job to do a long wall, and make sure you thin the joint compound before installing.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Theoretically, the ceiling drywall is supposed to be supported around the perimeter by the wall drywall.

Never heard that one before and I've put up thousands of sheets of drywall.

 

[Modern Jess]

Never heard that one before and I've put up thousands of sheets of drywall.

Just what I was taught. They always say the lid goes on first, then walls. I'm definitely not a professional drywaller, though, so take it with a grain of salt.

I googled "drywall ceiling first then walls" and everyone seems to say the same thing: the ceiling goes on first so the walls can support the edges, even if the fasteners fail. Here's a quote from Hometime:

When hanging drywall always work from the top to the bottom. And always run the drywall sheets perpendicular to the framing.

Hang drywall on ceilings before walls, so the sheets on the walls can help support the corners of the ceiling sheets.

And here's a thread from right here on GJ that says the same thing: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80074

 

[The Cobbler]

If it was mine, I would drywall the ceiling, cut strips of drywall (4' long from scraps)to fill the gap and tape it . sharp knife and good score, nail the strips, don't screw them the 1 1/2 pc wont break.

 

[fury9]

Drywall adhesive and a few drywall nails will hold that strip just fine .

 

[internetdude]

I've done a fair bit of drywall, my advise is to put up the ceiling drywall and then use drywall strips to fill in the gap, mud & tape as necessary.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Just what I was taught. They always say the lid goes on first, then walls. I'm definitely not a professional drywaller, though, so take it with a grain of salt.

I googled "drywall ceiling first then walls" and everyone seems to say the same thing: the ceiling goes on first so the walls can support the edges, even if the fasteners fail. Here's a quote from Hometime:



And here's a thread from right here on GJ that says the same thing: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80074

I was referring to the part about using the wall drywall to hold up the edges of the ceiling.. Here down under all sheets of drywall are Glued and screwed. They ain't going anywhere..

 

[Modern Jess]

I was referring to the part about using the wall drywall to hold up the edges of the ceiling.. Here down under all sheets of drywall are Glued and screwed. They ain't going anywhere..

Oh, I think this is just a case of belt and suspenders. The perimeter ceiling sheets are still fastened, but if a nail pops on the edge, the wall sheet still provides support.

 

[DEnd]

Oh, I think this is just a case of belt and suspenders. The perimeter ceiling sheets are still fastened, but if a nail pops on the edge, the wall sheet still provides support.

Yep belt and suspenders and allows for a better finish at the corner (2 factory edges). Allowing any cuts to be down low and behind the base boards.

 

[wssix99]

That must be a Chicago thing since the great fire. Only one layer of 5/8" is required here on ceiling and common wall to house.

Probably a dense urban area thing. (New York also takes their fire code very seriously. Catching your neighbors fire is much worse than catching their cold!)

We have to have a 2 hour fire rating for attached.

Since the OP's is detached, this is even more odd/interesting.