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Drywall

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Krfjkm

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May 15, 2020
Messages
277
Location
Charlotte / Mint Hill NC
I finished my detached shop and am now working on our attached garage. This will just be used to park the daily drivers.

I demo’d the drywall today and will add lights, outlets and insulation before drywall.

Here’s my question— the walls are 8’ 6” tall and 22’ long. I am curious about drywall layout and want ya’lls opinion.

Option #1: If I go horizontal I will have to have a 6” strip of drywall which adds an extra seam all around the garage

Option #2: if I install vertically, I could buy 10’ sheets and have less seams.

Option #2 seems right to me but have always seen drywall installed horizontally.

Thanks!!


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matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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10,736
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SE Michigan
The nice thing about horizontal is theoretically you don't have a joint lower than 48".

If you hang vertical you will be working every one floor to ceiling.
 
D

dwasifar

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May 28, 2017
Messages
2,097
matt_i said:
The nice thing about horizontal is theoretically you don't have a joint lower than 48".

If you hang vertical you will be working every one floor to ceiling.
Click to expand...
Unless your walls are longer than your sheets, in which case you've got to feather out a floor-to-ceiling **** joint every eight or ten feet anyway.

If the studs are properly spaced at 16", I prefer vertical for that reason. If they aren't, you might as well hang horizontally.
 
Q

quattro_sinko

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Jun 10, 2014
Messages
417
Location
Upstate NY
Bert_ said:
54" drywall...

How do people not even know about it?
Click to expand...
Because they don't have it at Home Depot/Lowes.

Seems to me that the only places that carry it (locally) are places that are 96% commercial account sales. Not knocking anyone, I've been in the trades longer than I'd like to admit, and I only realized how widespread/available it was maybe a decade ago.

Somewhat on a tangent, I am grateful that lightweight drywall has become so available, too.

OP: Take it for what it's worth: IMO it is easier to make horizontal seams look better than vertical. For a shop I might not be as concerned. Also, to some extent, running sheets horizontally helps fight racking, and evens out the high/low crowning of studs, giving a flatter looking wall.
 
OP
K

Krfjkm

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May 15, 2020
Messages
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Location
Charlotte / Mint Hill NC
quattro_sinko said:
Because they don't have it at Home Depot/Lowes.

Seems to me that the only places that carry it (locally) are places that are 96% commercial account sales. Not knocking anyone, I've been in the trades longer than I'd like to admit, and I only realized how widespread/available it was maybe a decade ago.

Somewhat on a tangent, I am grateful that lightweight drywall has become so available, too.

OP: Take it for what it's worth: IMO it is easier to make horizontal seams look better than vertical. For a shop I might not be as concerned. Also, to some extent, running sheets horizontally helps fight racking, and evens out the high/low crowning of studs, giving a flatter looking wall.
Click to expand...
Thanks Quattro! You’re exactly right the big box guys don’t stock it!
 
C

CraigStu

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May 22, 2014
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Blacksburg, Va
I'd run it vertical w/ the trimmed 10ft pieces. I **** so badly at drywall mudding/sanding that I'd love to have all the joints have the beveled edges on both pieces.
 
W

WisJim

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Dec 20, 2010
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Location
Menomonie, WI
My garage is similar and we used 54" wide to minimize waste. The supplier wasn't much more than Menards and delivery was cheaper, and they stacked it in the rooms we specified. Menards would have dropped a single pile in the driveway.
 
J

James-W

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Feb 3, 2013
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12,432
Location
Southeastern Wisconsin
I would go horizontally and put the 6 inch strip next to the ceiling. Also, I would hang the drywall and then have a drywall crew come in and tape the seams and do the finishing. I can hang drywall but doing the finishing is not something that I am good at. I can do it, but it takes me a long time and it never looks anywhere near as nice as when a pro does it. I realize it is a garage and not your house so if the job isn't perfect it may not be a big deal. But still, in my opinion, when you go thru all the work of putting up drywall it may as well look nice.
 
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Augus7us

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Jan 14, 2017
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Central Ohio
I'd say it depends on if you like to do **** joints or not. I find **** joints more difficult to get flat than the tapered.

I did some googling and per a post from the USG handbook it states that the horizontal layout is less linear foot of taping, easier to fix framing issues and has more contact with studs. However you have the aforementioned **** joints and per the same post it may be fire code to run them parallel to the studs in the garage.

I did both in my shop and my garage was done by a pro and its parallel to the studs.
 
S

SlotlessMan

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Dec 27, 2016
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205
Location
NW WI
I had a similar issue. I used 8' and added in a treated base board to run to the floor and painted it to match my floor. Attached garage is for our cars and they come in wet and full of snow that slops around. Drywall hates water. Solved 2 problems with that one
 
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Git

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May 18, 2008
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S Cal
To make it easier to work with, think about placing the sheets horizontally and run the 6" strip in the middle. Keep in mind the edges of the adjoining, full sheets, are going to be tapered (thinner). For the 6' strip, consider using slightly thinner drywall - for example, if the walls are going to be 1/2", but a sheet or two of 3/8" to cut down into the 6" strips. Then when you go to tape and mud, you can tape right across the taper onto the 3/8" sheet. The 6" gap should be pretty easy to fill with mud and nothing will be 'proud' of the surface. (same thing if your using 5/8" on the wall, use 1/2" for the 6" filler piece)

When it comes to the **** joints - use or make '**** boards'

 
S

spudley

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Joined
Dec 27, 2016
Messages
702
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
Git said:
To make it easier to work with, think about placing the sheets horizontally and run the 6" strip in the middle. Keep in mind the edges of the adjoining, full sheets, are going to be tapered (thinner). For the 6' strip, consider using slightly thinner drywall - for example, if the walls are going to be 1/2", but a sheet or two of 3/8" to cut down into the 6" strips. Then when you go to tape and mud, you can tape right across the taper onto the 3/8" sheet. The 6" gap should be pretty easy to fill with mud and nothing will be 'proud' of the surface. (same thing if your using 5/8" on the wall, use 1/2" for the 6" filler piece)

When it comes to the **** joints - use or make '**** boards'

Click to expand...
We have a winner.
 
B

Bert_

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Dec 24, 2016
Messages
9,759
Location
NW Iowa
I bought a house that the PO had started hanging sheetrock in. All 4x8 sheets and it had a 6-in strip in the middle.

I ended up pulling it all down, improving the insulation a little and hanging new drywall. I ended up with about half the number of seams. Drywall is too cheap to deal with all that.
 
T

Todd.Brock

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Joined
Jul 15, 2008
Messages
4,250
Location
Cincinnati
Bert_ said:
54" drywall...

How do people not even know about it?
Click to expand...

I like to consider myself semi - informed, but I was not aware of it. Apparently semi informed is relative, as I just learned something new!


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