Drywalling Rafters

[Ferrino]

I have some final areas of my garage I'd like to drywall, including some exposed rafters on the sloped roof section of my double garage. They are 2x6 pieces, spaced 16" apart. Having only drywalled vertical sections before, I'd like to check the correct way to apply drywall to this section, so that it's safe. For example, can I apply drywall directly to these rafters, or do I need to use strapping? Which thickness of drywall would be best?

Here's a link to a crappy pic:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/36/rafters.jpg/

Thanks!

 

[Monkey Radio]

Yes you can install Drywall on the ceiling.You can use 1/2 thick. (5/8 in 24" spacing) I would use 5/8. Use drywall wood screws 12"spacing in the center and 8" on the perimeter and you will be good to go.

 

[camarotoolman]

Buy or rent a drywall jack (lift) and a screw gun. Might be better to hire some pros and be done with it.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Might be better to hire some pros and be done with it.

where's the fun and adventure in that?
Looks like an easy job.

 

[darkk]

Use 5/8" drywall, the price difference is cheap insurance against possible ceiling sag. You don't need strapping, your rafters are 16 oc.

 

[Tech Guy]

Dont forget to leave air space for the soffits. What I did was run 2x2 strapping inset from the bottom of the rafters. Installed blue styrofoam on the strapping so it was flush with the bottom of the rafters. That also left soffit breathing room behind it. Then I covered the bottom of the rafters with masonite. Lot easier to hang 1/8" masonite sheets than drywall and you can paint it whatever colour you want. I also applied adhesive when I hung the sheets just so I wouldnt get any sag.

 

[trainer]

I used 1x4 strapping on 16" centres running perpendicular to the rafters. Rafters arent always exactly on 24" centres and can drive you crazy trying to get the joints lined up.
with 16" centres, sagging I've found that sagging isnt an issue using 1/2" drywall.
Definately get ahold of a drywall lift. It makes ceiling drywall into a one man job.

 

[camarotoolman]

Hanging d-wall ain't no fun and it isn't an adventure. Specially 5/8 board on the ceiling is dam hard work. did it for aliving. Great way to f-up your back too.

 

[Ferrino]

Thanks all! I'm looking to do this job myself. Re. the 1/8" Masonite idea - would that not sag, even on 16"-spaced rafters? Sounds easier than hauling drywall sheets up there!

 

[Tech Guy]

Thanks all! I'm looking to do this job myself. Re. the 1/8" Masonite idea - would that not sag, even on 16"-spaced rafters? Sounds easier than hauling drywall sheets up there!

Didnt sag at all. After the styrofoam sheets were installed. I used a special adhesive for the styrofoam and regular PL Premium along the bottom of the wood joists. Only screwed the masonite where it met the joists and the adhesive on the styrofoam sheets grabbed it nicely. Not one sag anywhere in a double car garage.

 

[gatchel]

Never heard of using masonite as a ceiling product before...innovative.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Hanging d-wall ain't no fun and it isn't an adventure. Specially 5/8 board on the ceiling is dam hard work. did it for aliving. Great way to f-up your back too.

Well, that's what the sheetrock lifts are for.
I too have spent a big chunk of the last 45 years putting up ceilings.

 

[Tech Guy]

Never heard of using masonite as a ceiling product before...innovative.

Buddy of mine used to install those slide away panels that seperated gymnasiums in the schools and they always came with 4x8 sheets of brand new masonite panels for protection. Since they were free and the roof has a high pitch over the rafters, you dont even notice it. Cheap, light and easy to put up.

 

[camarotoolman]

I was just in a business that had the insolation board with the aluminun foil on facing on the ceiling. that might be the way to go. It has some R value, and realy reflected the light good. It would be easy to put up too. I don't remember what its called and the r value. It was nice and cool in there and it was a hot Fl. day.

 

[padstack]

On a ceiling, if the drywall is going straight on the rafters, I'd consider drywall adhesive on the joists before putting the drywall on. Once it cures, you don't even need the screws. That should help a bit with potential sag as well.

 

[wnstwolf]

Camaro beat me too it. I used the 4x8 foil panels in the shop with the matching tape for the seams. (still need to install tape) Stuff is feather light and in the end is nice looking, to me at least. Would not paint it so silver is your choice here. a little pricer than rock though but no taping or painting so things start to look more comparable..

[/IMG]

 

[Tech Guy]

Nice looking shop ! Never thought about using those panels when I did mine then again the masonite was free

 

[green.bubbly]

Seeing that there are a couple of sheetrock hangers in this thread, allow to to throw out my question. I am about to be at the rick hanging stage in my house. Living room has 19 foot ceilings which is way above the limit of any drywall lift I could find. I need to install about 8 sheets at that height.

I could use scaffolds but it would still be a tough job unless I hired it out which I might do. Any thoughts of lifting sheets that high with limited manpower?

My only thought was to use a chain hoist. I have ample room above the ceiling to mount a chain host. I was thinking that I could knock out a small hole in the center of the sheet. Then pass a rope though the hole and tie it to a 2x4 frame that would support the sheet as it was hoisted into place.

Sounds easy in theory by who knows how it would actually work out.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Scaffold is the way to go.
Use the drywall lifter to get it up to the scaffold
platform height then manhandle it from there.
3 or 4 guys needed though.

 

[darkk]

I have the foil faced 1/2"x4'x8' sheets nailed at 16" oc in my 22x24 storage garage for the little extra insulating factor, but they do sag a bit after a while.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Garage attached to house? (why wasn't it d/walled to begin with?)
Do the exposed rafters at the high end rest on a wall that is living area?
Is there venting at the high end? Are there soffit vents at the low end(over the garage door)? Closing up that roof section without adequate venting could damage composition roof (if that is what you have). And adding insulation would help with the interior temp's for little money- might as well while it's open.
And if you do insulate you would need to add baffles to the rafter cavities- if doing R-13 insulation, no other modifications would be needed.
The recommended insulation for that situation is R-19. If you go with R-19, you would need to add a 2X2 to the face of each rafter- essentially making them 2X8. That would allow enough space for the insulation and baffles.

 

[green.bubbly]

Scaffold is the way to go.
Use the drywall lifter to get it up to the scaffold
platform height then manhandle it from there.
3 or 4 guys needed though.

That is what I was afraid of.

 

[Ferrino]

Dont forget to leave air space for the soffits.

Sorry, I'm new to this - I assume this is to allow for ventilation of the space that I will be sealing up with the drywall? I don't see any sort of ventilation under the eaves of my garage - do they all ventilate? And if they don't, if I am going to board up the rafters with drywall, should I introduce ventilation? Thanks.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

...I used the 4x8 foil panels in the shop with the matching tape for the seams. (still need to install tape) Stuff is feather light and in the end is nice looking, to me at least. Would not paint it so silver is your choice here. a little pricer than rock though but no taping or painting so things start to look more comparable..

[/IMG]

Wow, those panels looks truly nice. They reflect light and I think they might be the answer to my problem.

I'm in the middle of a shop reset and though the sloped ceiling in it is solid (I had a hot melt sheet roof put on it) but the old owner painted it with either lousy prep, lousy paint, or both!

As you can see in this (lousy) photo it's flaking off. Because the ceiling is low, I HAD planned on sanding the whole thing - UGH, lousy tiring job and painting it white for improved light:

(Excuse the mess in there. I'm moving EVERYTHING around and it'll look much better when I'm done.)

Using these panels in between the joists would let me just sand & paint or urethane the joists, then hold the panels in place with either quarter round or a small aluminum angle.

Did you hold yours up there with adhesive or nails? I thought about using those nails with the red plastic washers.

 

[wmchurch]

Camaro beat me too it. I used the 4x8 foil panels in the shop with the matching tape for the seams. (still need to install tape) Stuff is feather light and in the end is nice looking, to me at least. Would not paint it so silver is your choice here. a little pricer than rock though but no taping or painting so things start to look more comparable..

wsntwolf: How did you fasten it to the ceiling? I've been looking for options to insulating and enclosing the ceiling in my garage and I like the look. I'd probably do one more sheet between the rafters but this really has me thinking.

The foil tape on the seams would look pretty slick too.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Just run rows of drywall screws and then foil tape over them to get them out of site.

 

[wnstwolf]

I used the roofing nails with the green washers on them. I believe they are used for putting down roofing felt and the like.. Keep them close to the edges and the foil tape will cover the seam as well as the nail for a nice uniform install. I have installed drywall in my home and the ceilings are tough for the DIY'er if you do not have a dedicated helper. I have tried the lift but ceilings were always just a shade too tall and still had to fight it. In the house the fight is worth it but in the garage you are usually on your own. The foil sheets a almost weightless. hardest thing is to be careful not to dent or scratch them.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

....hardest thing is to be careful not to dent or scratch them.

Aw, good tip. Thanks, Dan

 

[ddawg16]

Typically, you do the ceiling first....that way the sides help support the edges of the ceiling panels.

I picked up a drywall lift off CL for $125. I figure I can sell it for that when I'm done with it.

 

[Ferrino]

Does anyone please have any feedback on my question about ventilation, before I drywall it up? There does not appear to be any ventilation from the outside (eaves) to the space between the rafters. Is this just a regional thing? Thanks!

 

[Justanoldguy]

Here in NZ we don't vent our roof areas,
but I think that is to do with our construction methods and materials used.
Totally different to the general build done in the USA.
Sorry, can't help you.