Drywalling the basement questions

[joseywales]

We already have a drop ceiling and now we're going to drywall. The area we're going to drywall is about 700sqf. 3 walls and the 4th wall will be mostly double door closets and double doors leading to the HVAC /garage, etc.

Walls are poured concrete - were painted with basement paint. Sump pump was there when we moved in.

Questions:

1 - Framing/insulationthe outlets and switches are already in place. metal conduit down to each box. Most of the metal boxes are 1 1/2" deep and there are about 10 of them. the four switches are 2 1/4" and 2 1/8". Because these boxes were "shot" into place, i'm trying to avoid removing/replacing them. What's the best combination of insulation/framing/drywall thickness that gets me to 1 1/2"? That would only leave the switch boxes that might stick out a bit, of I could find alternate boxes, etc.

2 - Studs - thinking wood. Partly because I'm going to involve my children to help with the framing, so I'm trying to avoid a blood bath - myself included.

2A - Mounting TV - stud strength I haven't decided where the TV will go. Perhaps I have to redetermine where that goes, if I use furring strips for studs - due to the weight of the TV. The stud material is more determined by 2 above, so perhaps I find an alternate way to mount the TV.

3 - Sump-pump - looking to install either a backup, and/or backup battery setup. Thoughts?

4 - HVAC. Instead of cutting into HVAC vent int he basement, I'm going with a wall mounted HVAC/dehumidifier unit. thoughts?

5 - Window wellsRecommended replacement windows, for fresh air.

6 - Any creative ideas for "housing" the sump-pump area? It's pretty much in the corner and comes about about 4 feet. I was thinking some type of bench, with opening lids and/or sides for access. The wife suggested mounting the TV above it, so no real foot traffic across that area.

Thanks for any ideas/thoughts you have.

 

[matt_i]

Personally I wouldnt cheat myself on thickness because of existing electrical junction boxes. I would find a process that can cut them out quickly, install new ones with a rotary hammer and tapcons. I think I'd start with a Metabo cutoff wheel and try to saw a slot in the box (wiring removed), then grind off the head of the nail with the perimeter of the wheel.

Be mindful of the shower of sparks, keep extinguisher handy, don't do a bunch of work and leave the house right after...check work area periodically for 1 hour afterwards.

 

[Jon_E]

Regarding the TV mounting - if you're pretty certain where you want it to go, then recess a piece of 3/4" plywood into the studs, or use 2x8 or 2x10 blocking between the studs. Also, instead of using furring strips for 'studs', if you want some decent strength for not a lot more money, use 2x4's on the flat. It does limit your electrical box depth to 2" though. Personally I would fur out the wall with 2x4's conventionally, use standard boxes and maybe insulate the wall with rigid foam or spray foam, depending on your circumstances. You mention sump pump - is the basement wet? That might be the first problem to solve.

 

[lawfarm]

Can you use box extenders and mud rings to avoid relocating the electric?

 

[tjdux]

They make a product called remodeling rings to make boxes deeper. Use 1x2 or 2x4 the wrong way as furing strips, then bring put half inch remdel rings on boxes and half in drywall.

For insulation i would go with foam board inbetween the strips. Its not perfect but unless you want to pull all the boxes and to standard 2x4 framing, foam board is likely the fastest/simplest way.

As for tv...If you know where you want it put in furing strips exactly where you need to install the wall mounts even if that means some extra boards and leave yourself a good indicator of where all those strips are. Flat screens are usually pretty lightweight and as long as you mount to the strips and the are solid you will be ok.

Sump pump... yeah bench isn't a bad idea. When i did my basement i made a closet for my water meter and sprinkler controls. Mine had stuff very vertical so floor to ceiling closet made sense but your situation sounds more like a bench will be better. I dont have a pump so no opinion on battery or secondary but the seem like good ideas.

Also no real opinion on the wells or humidifier. Not something i have much experience with so gonna save those for someone who isn't just guessing. Good luck.



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[joseywales]

Can you use box extenders and mud rings to avoid relocating the electric?

I just looked at those. That's a good option. However, my boxes are all metal and I can't seem to find an extender for metal. Perhaps plastic extenders would fit? Would the plastic/metal combo have any functional or code issues?

 

[joseywales]

Regarding the TV mounting - if you're pretty certain where you want it to go, then recess a piece of 3/4" plywood into the studs, or use 2x8 or 2x10 blocking between the studs. Also, instead of using furring strips for 'studs', if you want some decent strength for not a lot more money, use 2x4's on the flat. It does limit your electrical box depth to 2" though. Personally I would fur out the wall with 2x4's conventionally, use standard boxes and maybe insulate the wall with rigid foam or spray foam, depending on your circumstances. You mention sump pump - is the basement wet? That might be the first problem to solve.

We've been here 12 years and the sump pump does run on heavy rains. Water table rising is my guess. We have commercial carpet squares down there now and I don't see any moisture underneath them, etc. The only water that has entered the house is through a fine crack. The crack is from the floor to maybe 3 feet high, but only weeps through a tiny hole in the crack. This cracks is about 18 inches from where we intended to stop the drywall anyway, but 18 inches on the wrong side So it should be covered with drywall and we might have to deal with the leak first. The worst part is, if left alone, the water would simply lay, or perhaps run away from the sump-pump.

The leak appears to be hydro-static pressure from outside. The tiny hole weeps and runs down the crack. We simply lay a towel down and it takes up whatever comes in. It was worse, but in recent years we've: installed an outdoor drain, to take the water from neighboring properties away from the house, removed our swing set (and the mulch), and replaced the area with grass.

 

[yeldogt]

The key to the project being successful ..... water. If the basement is dry you will not have issues. It's not unusual to have some humidity in a closed space -- basements tend to be a closed space. The question is: where is the moisture coming from. If it's simply from the house occupants -- getting some conditioned air is often enough to clear it out. The problem is when it's coming from the walls or underground. Your discussion of needing to dehumidify is why I mention. You have to eliminate the water.

I have never been lucky enough to have walls suitable (flat) to use the kits available that incorporate foam and wood for drywall -- you may. I have used both wood and metal for "studs". Metal is nice when using the narrow sizes as the holes are there and they are straight -- 2x3's are a pain to work with -- 2x4's take up a lot of space. With my new project we are laying 2x4's on the flats - with foundation foam behind. PT for the lower sill. My home office is in the lower level of my house. The walls all under ground -- the insulation need is greatly reduced with soil outside. My house is bone dry (no sump pump) -- I used metal studs set from the wall a bit and typical encapsulated fiberglass batts w/ 5/8 rock. No issues in plus 20 years. I'm using the house HVAC to condition -- remember if its all underground the load is not the same as above .. most HVAC systems are oversized.

They make a product we always called "kitchen metal" -- it's wide straps of metal sheeting that span the studs to hang cabinets .. etc. It comes in different thickness -- it's made for metal studs -- but works just as well with wood.

 

[Dirtydan69]

I would epoxy repair that crack to prevent further issues.

We've been here 12 years and the sump pump does run on heavy rains. Water table rising is my guess. We have commercial carpet squares down there now and I don't see any moisture underneath them, etc. The only water that has entered the house is through a fine crack. The crack is from the floor to maybe 3 feet high, but only weeps through a tiny hole in the crack. This cracks is about 18 inches from where we intended to stop the drywall anyway, but 18 inches on the wrong side So it should be covered with drywall and we might have to deal with the leak first. The worst part is, if left alone, the water would simply lay, or perhaps run away from the sump-pump.

The leak appears to be hydro-static pressure from outside. The tiny hole weeps and runs down the crack. We simply lay a towel down and it takes up whatever comes in. It was worse, but in recent years we've: installed an outdoor drain, to take the water from neighboring properties away from the house, removed our swing set (and the mulch), and replaced the area with grass.

 

[Stockjockey]

Different idea for insulation and drywall. Use thick sheets of insulation and liquid nail them to the walls. Then cut your electric boxes out. Run wires in conduit through channels cut into insulation. Then liquid nail drywall to insulation. 15yrs later mine still looks great.

 

[joseywales]

....
I have never been lucky enough to have walls suitable (flat) to use the kits available that incorporate foam and wood for drywall -- you may. I have used both wood and metal for "studs". Metal is nice when using the narrow sizes as the holes are there and they are straight -- 2x3's are a pain to work with -- 2x4's take up a lot of space. With my new project we are laying 2x4's on the flats - with foundation foam behind. PT for the lower sill. My home office is in the lower level of my house. The walls all under ground -- the insulation need is greatly reduced with soil outside. .

Interesting point. I should not.

For the most part, the basement is below grade.

The walls aren't super smooth. Man, my brother's walls were so smooth he simply painted it and only drywalled where he wanted to close off rooms. You can hardly tell where the drywall ends. I'm not that lucky. Every "seam" protrudes to some degree. Not sure if that'll be an issue with insulation.

 

[ford33]

Fix all water leaks now and be sure they are fixed. Water will ruin carpet, insulation and rot your wood studs.

Buy and maintain a secondary sump pump. A battery backup that is tested and maintained will save you money when the primary fails. Also run separate pipe to exit the basement. The back up should be a completely separate system.

 

[James-W]

If it were me, I would get rid of the existing basement electrical wiring and outlets and run all new. Odds are, when you get the basement finished the outlets won't be where you really want them anyway. Besides that, with the electrical gone you won't have to "frame around" the wiring you currently have. My thinking is, rip out the old wiring, do the framing, then install all new wiring so that you have outlets exactly where you want/need them.

 

[Jazz1]

Keep drywall 4" above floor so in event of flooding you stand a chance of not having to replace drywall. Just from experience I would never install carpet in a basement. Strategically placed throw rugs instead.

 

[6768rogues]

I frame the walls flat on the floor with 2x4s and a treated bottom plate, about an inch short of what will fit. Then I cover the back side of the stud wall with plastic and stand it up, lifting it up and shimming it under the bottom. Nail or screw the top in place. I cut treated blocks to fill under the bottom and tapcon the bottom in place through the bottom plate and blocks.
Then wire with regular indoor boxes and Romex, insulate, etc. It is just like a stud wall upstairs once it is in place.
I put blocking in where the TV will go and keep the dimensions of its location for use later.

 

[tfinniii]

Plastic(water-barrier) on wall first and out over floor under treated lumber bottom plate.

 

[engineer2]

You could use greenboard for the first course of drywall. As long as the insulation is foam and can dry out, you shouldn't need to tear it out if the basement floods.
Prevention is the best way though; a good sump pump and a backup.
As stated previously all water seepage issues must be addressed.
Hydronic heat is a wonderful thing on basement floors.

I'm surprised you have a suspended ceiling already. Usually that is put in after the drywall and painting.

 

[joseywales]

Thanks guys. The electrical and ceiling were installed maybe 4 years ago. At the time, it was a rec room. 1/32 RC cars, 17 foot straight always, etc. No need, or budget, for drywall. Even now, we're basically finishing only 2/3 of the basement. dry walling 3 walls and the fourth "wall" will be made up bifold doors to cover HVAC, closet space, etc.

 

[mattygee]

I wouldn't let the elex setup you have drive your framing method. I would do as stated above, with a free standing wall attached at the floor and ceiling joists in from the foundation 2 inches w/1" foam board glued to concrete. Much easier to get straight/plumb walls, and no wicking of moisture with direct contact. Poured concrete walls are usually not ideally straight/plumb enough to attach framing to directly. I would also say instead of lumber for bottom and top plates use steel as you would for a steel studded wall.

 

[jdieter]

Did this same project a few years back on a walkout basement. Gutted the previous remodel, and installed metal studs and spray foam insulation under drywall. No humidity issues. Also installed 3/4" rigid foamboard on the floor topped with 3/4 t&g plwood and all joint sealed with sprayfoam in the can and taped. Basement has always been dry no sump pump.