karoc
Well-known member
That is neat ideal I will have to make a note on that.
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Dumb question, how to cut baseboard to go around a half pole?
- Thread starter NewShockerGuy
- Start date
Shiftless
Well-known member
If you need a filler that will sand REALLY smooth, use this.
Pre fill the deep cracks. Let it dry. Then smooth on a thin coat with a flexible putty knife or even better a plastic spreader. Then sand with fine paper...like 400. Even better, a sanding sponge.
Then prime paint, inspect, use more 907 if necessary, re-prime and paint.
This stuff dries and hardens very quickly. Get it online or at the auto parts store.
This will enable a smoother job than any wood filler I have ever tried.
Do any of you guys use this on wood instead of on auto body? I do.
.
Pre fill the deep cracks. Let it dry. Then smooth on a thin coat with a flexible putty knife or even better a plastic spreader. Then sand with fine paper...like 400. Even better, a sanding sponge.
Then prime paint, inspect, use more 907 if necessary, re-prime and paint.
This stuff dries and hardens very quickly. Get it online or at the auto parts store.
This will enable a smoother job than any wood filler I have ever tried.
Do any of you guys use this on wood instead of on auto body? I do.
.
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Falcon67
Well-known member
Looks like the same base mold we use in this house. Kudos, I would have just feathered the ends into the pole and gone on down the wall.
Innovate1
Well-known member
Looks really good so far. I like how you did a test case with scrap material. Makes the final job go so much more smoothly and turn out more like you expect. It's overkill for some but it's well done details like this that really make something stand out from typical.
OP
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Forgot to post the pics yeseterday.
Everything seems to be glued nicely. I sanded and this was the result. It's got it's first layer of filler. So I will be sanding that shortly. Then doing another layer. Hopefully two is all that is needed. I think the only minor issue is going to be when I cope the joint on the flat piece leading into the curve. There will probably be some slight overlap or a gap that will be filled with caulk.. but again, considering my skill level or lack there of, I will be the only person that knows.
The missile idea would have been super cool, i can just see that I would either trip or knock the forward facing fin off.
Iif I had the tools and knew how. I think gluing pieces together then cutting a radius then cutting the mold to the profile would have been faster/proper way to do it.. I just have zero clue how that would have even worked. I can't believe some of the skill on here that people show with wood working and they make it look like it's no big deal. This alone took some time..hahah And it's probably like a 3 out of 10 for how it looks honestly compared to what a carpenter would produce. I did cut the second pole pieces slightly different and added more of an angle on the very end pieces compared to the first. It's funny to see how much the pole sticks out on the one piece compared to the other. Makes me wonder wtf was the person previously doing when they did the basement and why they choose to do what they did.
Appreciate the comments. I'm trying to make it look nice. I feel like the entire basement has taken way longer than it should have. I bought the flooring back in 2018 but that was when my father was ill, then when he passed I had zero motivation to do anything in the basement, I think I was just over whelmed with all of the stuff that needed to be done, from the stairs, to running wire to speakers, bedroom...etc. Finally got out of that funk a while back and said he'd want you to get this **** done already... do it. With Covid, it's kinda been nice working a week on/off because I've been able to get a lot of the trim stuff and details done.
This is the last part so I'm happy it's going and will be done hopefully by the weekend.
-Nigel
Everything seems to be glued nicely. I sanded and this was the result. It's got it's first layer of filler. So I will be sanding that shortly. Then doing another layer. Hopefully two is all that is needed. I think the only minor issue is going to be when I cope the joint on the flat piece leading into the curve. There will probably be some slight overlap or a gap that will be filled with caulk.. but again, considering my skill level or lack there of, I will be the only person that knows.
The missile idea would have been super cool, i can just see that I would either trip or knock the forward facing fin off.
Iif I had the tools and knew how. I think gluing pieces together then cutting a radius then cutting the mold to the profile would have been faster/proper way to do it.. I just have zero clue how that would have even worked. I can't believe some of the skill on here that people show with wood working and they make it look like it's no big deal. This alone took some time..hahah And it's probably like a 3 out of 10 for how it looks honestly compared to what a carpenter would produce. I did cut the second pole pieces slightly different and added more of an angle on the very end pieces compared to the first. It's funny to see how much the pole sticks out on the one piece compared to the other. Makes me wonder wtf was the person previously doing when they did the basement and why they choose to do what they did.
Appreciate the comments. I'm trying to make it look nice. I feel like the entire basement has taken way longer than it should have. I bought the flooring back in 2018 but that was when my father was ill, then when he passed I had zero motivation to do anything in the basement, I think I was just over whelmed with all of the stuff that needed to be done, from the stairs, to running wire to speakers, bedroom...etc. Finally got out of that funk a while back and said he'd want you to get this **** done already... do it. With Covid, it's kinda been nice working a week on/off because I've been able to get a lot of the trim stuff and details done.
This is the last part so I'm happy it's going and will be done hopefully by the weekend.
-Nigel
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I use automotive Bondo & spot putty on wood, yes.
spot putty can also be thinned with lacquer thinner,making it a thick primer, and brushed on to rough surfaces . sands quite easily .
Shiftless
Well-known member
Just be sure to use the lacquer based spot putty, not the urethane type!
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks good Nigel! Glad you stuck with it and figured out a solution..
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Brain fart.
Bondo... they also make wood filler... same as auto stuff... but designed for wood.
I've done a dozen exterior door repairs with it.
Bondo... they also make wood filler... same as auto stuff... but designed for wood.
I've done a dozen exterior door repairs with it.
OP
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
About a day behind with some things but here are some updated rough pics. Baesboards are painted and drying before second coat gets put on.
Took a couple pics of the room to show the pole placement. It's wack. lol
Did two coats of filler and sanded it all down on the round pieces. Looks ok honestly. Once it's fully painted it should hopefully look nice. Obvious small gaps that will get addressed but overall turned out pretty good. Will update once everything is on the wall and caulked.
-Nigel
Took a couple pics of the room to show the pole placement. It's wack. lol
Did two coats of filler and sanded it all down on the round pieces. Looks ok honestly. Once it's fully painted it should hopefully look nice. Obvious small gaps that will get addressed but overall turned out pretty good. Will update once everything is on the wall and caulked.
-Nigel
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Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Wow! That looks great.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice!
casmurbax
Well-known member
Very nice, nice job
harley jim
Well-known member
Re: Dumb question, how to cut baseboard to go around a half round pole?
Excellent job
Sent from my SM-A102U using The Garage Journal mobile app
Excellent job
Sent from my SM-A102U using The Garage Journal mobile app
GirchyGirchy
Well-known member
Interesting!
aka Larry
Well-known member
I have to say I thought this sounded like a lot of extra worth for nothing, but I'm happy to say I was wrong, because that looks damn good! Nice details like that really show up in certain situations, and make all the difference.
Nice job man!
Nice job man!
SALIV8
Well-known member
Wow. That is awesome. I would not have the patience to do that. Good on you!!
bradpac
Well-known member
Excellent results. Looks much better than my boxed out solution would have been. Good job sir!
atch
Well-known member
Ok. There's been a month to fill, sand, and paint.
We're awaiting the finished pix...
We're awaiting the finished pix...
OP
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Opps!! Completely forgot to post the pics!
I'll be back at my house in two days from a work event so I'll post pictures then.
-Nigel
OP
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
As tony the tiger would say, That's Greaaatttttt!
atch
Well-known member
That's just way beyond cool.
DGersic
Well-known member
Re: Dumb question, how to cut baseboard to go around a half round pole?
That came out great.
Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app
That came out great.
Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app
OP
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
^ The only problem with doing it that way it and not having the trim go around the pole you would see the gap left from the floor to the pole. There would have been nothing hiding it and it would have looked unfinished. Completely agree about them firring out the wall though.. Still not sure on the thought process of them not hiding the pole like they did from the other side of the basement, perhaps it was cheaper to do it and that's why the original owner did it? Entire basement is finished..perhaps they thought by not doing this in that room you gain 2" of extra width? lol
-Nigel
-Nigel
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jackman1967
New member
Re: Dumb question, how to cut baseboard to go around a half round pole?
rip baseboard at lower detail then cut the lower section on the back about 1/4 inch apart vertically leaving about 3 /16 of material that will be flexable the top i would rip at details you will need to allow for saw blade thickness and cut the back again then wrap the post glue with panel adheshive to bare metal bracing the molding tight go slow not to break the peices when finish bondo sand and paint
rip baseboard at lower detail then cut the lower section on the back about 1/4 inch apart vertically leaving about 3 /16 of material that will be flexable the top i would rip at details you will need to allow for saw blade thickness and cut the back again then wrap the post glue with panel adheshive to bare metal bracing the molding tight go slow not to break the peices when finish bondo sand and paint