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Dunlap Vise disassembly question

GTIDriver

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May 19, 2017
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Hi all - this will actually be my first post on the forum; have lurked for a while but thought i'd finally pipe up. The level of knowledge here blows me away and this is a total noob question, so go easy on me.

I recently received an old Dunlap 5244 bench vise my dad found in his basement - was my grandfather's. From what i've found online these were made from the late 1940s-early 1960s. Cosmetically it's in pretty rough shape, but all the mechanicals appear to be intact.

I've started the disassembly process so I can restore it, but i've run into an roadblock - as you can see, there's a big spacer and washers on the main screw inside the dynamic jaw. There are 4 gouges/raised spots on the main screw that are holding these spacers in place. I'd like to get the screw entirely out so I can clean and paint thoroughly, but I can't figure out how to get those washers off.

So far the only thing i've found is the following video of a guy restoring a similar 5244 - he just grinds the raised nubs off with a dremel:


Wondering if there's any way to get the screw out without having to grind it off...i'd be concerned with how the washers would stay in place after I put it back together. So far I haven't been able to get the front handle off...i'm not sure if it comes off or how best to do it.

Any ideas?

Thanks! Oh - if this is the wrong forum, mods please feel free to move it.
 

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American Locomotive

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IMO, mask the screw off and leave it in place. It's a vice, so there's really no point in going all-out on a paint job, since it's just going to get beat up and chip off anyways.
 
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GTIDriver

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Both great ideas, thanks guys. I don't have a drill press unfortunately, so drilling through the main screw is probably out...the collar is a good idea though.

Planning on spraying it with Rustoleum Pro Primer followed by Rustoleum Pro Enamel...any experience with that line of paint?

Also, do those handle pieces look like they're Cadmium plated to you, or just old and beat? I've read that that era of tools can sometimes be cadmium plated instead of chrome or bare metal. Would be good to know before I wire-wheel or sand anything that's going to be harmful.
 
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6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
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Both great ideas, thanks guys. I don't have a drill press unfortunately, so drilling through the main screw is probably out...the collar is a good idea though.

Planning on spraying it with Rustoleum Pro Primer followed by Rustoleum Pro Enamel...any experience with that line of paint?

Also, do those handle pieces look like they're Cadmium plated to you, or just old and beat? I've read that that era of tools can sometimes be cadmium plated instead of chrome or bare metal. Would be good to know before I wire-wheel or sand anything that's going to be harmful.
I just finished some angle brackets with that product line. The red primer is good for rusty or clean and the gray is just for clean. I used the red because I had it and gray is lousey under silver. You can't see if you missed a spot. I followed with the alumininum color. The new cans spray in any position, even up side down. They dry very fast which is a plus. I have used it under the Professional as well as the previous Hard Hat name. The old cans sometimes stopped spraying before they were empty. I hope the new ones are better. They are as good as you will get out of a 1 part spray paint can but it does not compre to a catalyzed finish or powder coat. They used to advertise it for industrial use, painting the control knobs on big mangey valves.

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GTIDriver

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Did you put any type of spray clear coat over it or no?

Seems like the enamel finish is pretty tough as it is.
 

6PTsocket

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Did you put any type of spray clear coat over it or no?

Seems like the enamel finish is pretty tough as it is.
Nope. Unless you top coat with something tougher, another coat of pigmented paint will be just as good. It is just on a piece of garage equipment and does not need a deep gloss finish.


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