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Durable outdoor black paint

JordonMusser

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Jan 5, 2009
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Dallas, TX
I painted some metal I beams on the outside of my house using Rustoleum flat black. As some what expected the paint has faded over about 3 years.

Looking for alternative paints that are UV resistant and some what durable. These don't get touched in general use, so physical durability is not critical but they are out in the general weather which is Texas sun and hail.

I was thinking about doing flat black Rustoleum again but maybe coating with an automotive flat clear. Don't love this option (cost, and I don't like the idea of what it would take to mask and spray these parts).

Any other high quality flat black paint that would outperform Rustoleum? I can't remove them (easily) to powdercoat or I would :)

(pic for reference, you can see the 3 vertical black beams and the 3 that cantilever off the house) This photo was taken before I moved in, right after I painted them :)
 

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May Pop

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Aug 7, 2005
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Lake in the hills Il.
Ive used the Kirker automotive paints for outside type painting projects. They have lasted many years with decent color retention. Both brushed and sprayed.

Ron
 

erty67

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Sep 30, 2012
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My most recent project I used Rustoleum Universal "top coat" to clear it. Supposed to have UV protection, but no idea how durable it is.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
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JordonMusser

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interesting idea on vehicle wrap. I would have to get the beams SUPER smooth as wrap will show a LOT.

Erty- was it a matte top coat?
 

Mark_17

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Jun 27, 2018
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Do you not want a gloss finish? Anything with a gloss finish will hold up better than matte.

If it has to be matte, I'd go Behr Ultra exterior. You're no longer bonding paint to metal. Its a paint to paint bond.
 
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JordonMusser

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Do you not want a gloss finish? Anything with a gloss finish will hold up better than matte.

If it has to be matte, I'd go Behr Ultra exterior. You're no longer bonding paint to metal. Its a paint to paint bond.

Great idea actually. There are a few spots of rust that have shown through. I could prime that and then try that. I assume its a latex based paint.
 

HotrodHR

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Nov 22, 2009
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445
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North Alabama
There are tons of products out there such as POR-15 Top Coat, etc. Many are gloss or semi gloss. Many require a clearcoat for UV protection and really should be sprayed. Clear can be flattened at the paint store. Prepping to spray takes time and you'd need paint equipment.

I'm an auto restoration hobbyist and like to shoot paint and do a pretty decent job. I painted a couple of large metal signs over 10 years ago with automotive paint. These were for the entrance to a subdivision and they needed to be black and matte.

After repairing the sign, priming and prep sanding for paint is shot black basecoat. Then laid out a gold vinyl logo and lettering, with gold tape border. I shot a matte clear coat ove the entire sign, burying the logo in clear. The signs came out nice and are still looking good today. In this case I was able to take the signs down and do all the painting in my shop using quality paint guns (although I probably could have gotten good results with a HF gun).

That said, I don't think I'd buy the pricey coatings for just those three posts and I assume railings. Just find a quality oil base product and plan to paint with a brush and roller every 3 years or so.
 

u2slow

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BC
I bought a bunch of rustoleum black BBQ paint on clearance. Used it bumpers and axles. Its pretty tough. Not quite black though - just a hint of brown.

For 'nice' black finish, I like Tremclad satin.
 

Ainsley

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Jun 12, 2014
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Ontario, Canada
I manage the maintenance and Engineering department at a petrochemical facility, including all the paint specs and we primarily use Sherwin-william industrial coatings. For UV resistance I like their Acrylon 218HS which is a 2 part polyurethane but I'm not sure if they have it in anything other than gloss and semi-gloss. For a single component product, which I stick with for students except yellow and red, I go with their Corothane line.
 
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JordonMusser

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Dallas, TX
Stuart- Thanks! I actually documented the entire construction (i built it around a 1600sqft garage, of course) but due to the way I linked photos all the links were broken :(

Thanks for all the tips guys. ill do some research on a few of these options.
 

andyvh1959

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Feb 15, 2020
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Green Bay WI
As with any paint application, surface prep is key. Weird idea, how about roll on pickup bed liner material? Not the cheap spray bomb can stuff but the heavy duty brush or roller applied product. Grainy fr certain if that is a concern. Not cheap, but durable. On my old Dakota pickup after I repaired the rusted out door sills and cab corners I coated them with bed liner brushed on, has held up really well for almost ten years now.
 
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JordonMusser

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Dallas, TX
As with any paint application, surface prep is key. Weird idea, how about roll on pickup bed liner material? Not the cheap spray bomb can stuff but the heavy duty brush or roller applied product. Grainy fr certain if that is a concern. Not cheap, but durable. On my old Dakota pickup after I repaired the rusted out door sills and cab corners I coated them with bed liner brushed on, has held up really well for almost ten years now.

another great idea actually. not sure I like the idea of the texture they generally have, but clearly they are designed for abuse and UV exposure.
 

57plymouth

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Mar 10, 2011
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74
I use black paint from the local Caterpillar stealership. Tough as nails, and lasts for years in sunlight.
 

LeonardY

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Apr 16, 2011
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Location
Southern California
Have you considered CARC substitute paint? CARC is military grade paint but it's dangerous to use and smell. There are safer versions (civilian) out there.
I've good luck with camouflage paint. Either Krylon or Rustoleum.
 
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