djjsr
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Nice work.
Looks like there was some pretty good competition there. Any more pictures?
Nice work.
Looks like there was some pretty good competition there. Any more pictures?
E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD
- Thread starter e-tek
- Start date
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Congrats on a job well done.
We have been drooling over your talent and the masterpiece you have created. Now others have had a chance to agree with us and give honors where it is due.
Congratulations, e-tek!
Congrats on a job well done.
We have been drooling over your talent and the masterpiece you have created. Now others have had a chance to agree with us and give honors where it is due.
Congratulations, e-tek!
BooUrns!
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Nice work! You're definitely deserving of a Wiser's "slow clap".
Nice work! You're definitely deserving of a Wiser's "slow clap".
E-tek Restorations.....67 Cougar Restoration
Thanks for all the kudo's gents - especially the "slow clap" - classic.
Was debating whether to start a new thread for the Cougar build, or keep them together...So unless anyone objects, I'll just continue this thread...
Quick recap:
This is how she showed up on my doorstep, March 2012:
Owner stripped it to a roller, leaving the bodypanels intact...
For this one I'm just contracted to do the heavy-lifting: Remove the suspension and last bits and the metal work. Owner is having "specialists" do the upholstery, engine and vinyl roof (though he could save thousands having me do it!)...
Rusty bits to be replaced include: Passenger front floor, drivers firewall, inner fender and apron sections, rear lower quarter sections, and around back glass:
Here's a good way to see the perforations:
Here's something weird: in 67 they forgot to put access ports to grease the front A-arm bushings....so dealers where instructed to cut holes at a particular location on the towers for future maintenance....guess they hadn't invented holes saws yet.
Off came the vinyl roof:
Operating equipment:
Tucked into it's temporary home...shore am glad my BP lift has casters!!
Removing after-market side mouldings:
Picked up a sweet 390 - 4 bbl mill for my Galaxie.
Magic elixer (not made of fish oil...)
This message brought to you by SeaWorld. LegoLand and the US Naval Base, San Diego:
Colton in the pilot seat of a brand-new chopper (with his finger on the trigger) in the Black Night Squadron. Lt Commander Chris (friend of my brothers) is the pilot and was first on-scene after the Japn Earthquake and Tsunami. His squadron historically picked up 5 of the lunar modules after their trips to the moon. We got the full tour: war room, weapons cache, AC carrier....Awesome visit.
Thanks for all the kudo's gents - especially the "slow clap" - classic.
Was debating whether to start a new thread for the Cougar build, or keep them together...So unless anyone objects, I'll just continue this thread...
Quick recap:
This is how she showed up on my doorstep, March 2012:
Owner stripped it to a roller, leaving the bodypanels intact...
For this one I'm just contracted to do the heavy-lifting: Remove the suspension and last bits and the metal work. Owner is having "specialists" do the upholstery, engine and vinyl roof (though he could save thousands having me do it!)...
Rusty bits to be replaced include: Passenger front floor, drivers firewall, inner fender and apron sections, rear lower quarter sections, and around back glass:
Here's a good way to see the perforations:
Here's something weird: in 67 they forgot to put access ports to grease the front A-arm bushings....so dealers where instructed to cut holes at a particular location on the towers for future maintenance....guess they hadn't invented holes saws yet.
Off came the vinyl roof:
Operating equipment:
Tucked into it's temporary home...shore am glad my BP lift has casters!!
Removing after-market side mouldings:
Picked up a sweet 390 - 4 bbl mill for my Galaxie.
Magic elixer (not made of fish oil...)
This message brought to you by SeaWorld. LegoLand and the US Naval Base, San Diego:
Colton in the pilot seat of a brand-new chopper (with his finger on the trigger) in the Black Night Squadron. Lt Commander Chris (friend of my brothers) is the pilot and was first on-scene after the Japn Earthquake and Tsunami. His squadron historically picked up 5 of the lunar modules after their trips to the moon. We got the full tour: war room, weapons cache, AC carrier....Awesome visit.
Last edited:
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
And Now, back to our regularly-scheduled programming:
Stripping paint and surface rust from rear window:
Different Magic Elixer:
Sheet metal parts came in:
Through my web site I get to converse with - and sometimes meet - many different people. Couple weeks ago the WD-40 Rep contacted me and said she'd be in town. I offered her a quick tour and she came bearing gifts - Thanks Julie!!
Rear end work:
I always find it amazing how they used the gas tank as an integral part of the rear-end....seems to have worked.
And Now, back to our regularly-scheduled programming:
Stripping paint and surface rust from rear window:
Different Magic Elixer:
Sheet metal parts came in:
Through my web site I get to converse with - and sometimes meet - many different people. Couple weeks ago the WD-40 Rep contacted me and said she'd be in town. I offered her a quick tour and she came bearing gifts - Thanks Julie!!
Rear end work:
I always find it amazing how they used the gas tank as an integral part of the rear-end....seems to have worked.
Last edited:
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Removing part of the front inner apron:
1. Locate and drill out the spot welds -
2. Seperate the parts with the air chisel -
3. With surgeon-like precision....
4. Drill spot-weld holes in new panel -
5. Remove panel and clean up edges -
6. Fit -
Tomorrow I'll weld it in and move onto the next piece in the puzzle.
Lots more details in my blog..............Cheers!
Removing part of the front inner apron:
1. Locate and drill out the spot welds -
2. Seperate the parts with the air chisel -
3. With surgeon-like precision....
4. Drill spot-weld holes in new panel -
5. Remove panel and clean up edges -
6. Fit -
Tomorrow I'll weld it in and move onto the next piece in the puzzle.
Lots more details in my blog..............Cheers!
Last edited:
Jay H 237
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
The upper control arms on the Mustangs and Cougars actually never had a grease fitting from the factory, just a plug in the end. Mechanics would cut the holes in the shock towers to access these plugs, pop them out and install the grease fittings so the upper control arm pivots would stop squeaking and cut down on wear.
On a concourse restored car no grease fittings are allowed, on a driver they are recommended to be in. You may want to weld up the holes in the shock towers and install right angle grease fittings. I was lucky that my Mustang never had the holes cut in the towers. I'm also very lucky my cowl has never rusted out either, guess the fact the original owner always kept it garaged and the car came from southern CA protected it better than most.
The upper control arms on the Mustangs and Cougars actually never had a grease fitting from the factory, just a plug in the end. Mechanics would cut the holes in the shock towers to access these plugs, pop them out and install the grease fittings so the upper control arm pivots would stop squeaking and cut down on wear.
On a concourse restored car no grease fittings are allowed, on a driver they are recommended to be in. You may want to weld up the holes in the shock towers and install right angle grease fittings. I was lucky that my Mustang never had the holes cut in the towers. I'm also very lucky my cowl has never rusted out either, guess the fact the original owner always kept it garaged and the car came from southern CA protected it better than most.
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
dr. e-tek is at it again. Looking froward to another educational rebuild. And the additional details on the blog are great.
Since the hood hinge was welded to the fender, are there any other later mods to this that you have to un-do?
dr. e-tek is at it again. Looking froward to another educational rebuild. And the additional details on the blog are great.
Since the hood hinge was welded to the fender, are there any other later mods to this that you have to un-do?
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
I'm sure I'll find some! This car is pretty clean for a 40 year old, but it's had a couple incidents too. I have to repair some older damage to the left front apron and re-do some rust repairs here and there - otherwise it 'should' be reasonably straightforward (he says hopefully...)
I'm sure I'll find some! This car is pretty clean for a 40 year old, but it's had a couple incidents too. I have to repair some older damage to the left front apron and re-do some rust repairs here and there - otherwise it 'should' be reasonably straightforward (he says hopefully...)
Mike.ASC
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Great job on the Chevy truck .
Mike
Great job on the Chevy truck .
Mike
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
So glad that you are taking the time to bring us all along on a new adventure, thank you. On the WD-40, I seem to remember reading that some people would not allow the stuff anywhere around body work as the silicone in it would settle on the body and later cause fish-eye in the paint. I'm not a painter or a user of wd-40 so this information is just hearsay.
lg
no neat sig line
So glad that you are taking the time to bring us all along on a new adventure, thank you. On the WD-40, I seem to remember reading that some people would not allow the stuff anywhere around body work as the silicone in it would settle on the body and later cause fish-eye in the paint. I'm not a painter or a user of wd-40 so this information is just hearsay.
lg
no neat sig line
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Restorations.....67 Cougar Restoration
Not all all correct about the .060 390 giving you 428 cubes.
.060 over 390 is 401.2 Cu In
You would need to go .080 over and add .200 to the stroke.
Not all all correct about the .060 390 giving you 428 cubes.
.060 over 390 is 401.2 Cu In
You would need to go .080 over and add .200 to the stroke.
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Looking forward to the Cougar build!!! My next project will be a Cougar Eliminator clone once I finish my 57 Chevy 1/2 ton restoration. I always learn something looking at your posts. Thanks for sharing!!!
Looking forward to the Cougar build!!! My next project will be a Cougar Eliminator clone once I finish my 57 Chevy 1/2 ton restoration. I always learn something looking at your posts. Thanks for sharing!!!
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Turns out the front end is pretty close - 3/8" out of square - but there's a bit of damage right up front, near the rad support, which may make up the difference. I'll work out the wrinkles and re-measure it. +/- 1/4" is considered good.
When I removed that side panel I found some rust in the panel under it. A quick patch and all is good again...
Zinc weld-through primer:
Also cut a piece to repair the hole someone cut in the cowl for a speaker placement.
Then it was time to get the panel fit into the right spot for welding....
Besides vice grips, I use screws to **** panels tight to adjacent pieces:
After completing the Right side, I went around the front end with the hammer and dolly and worked out any wrinkles best I could. There where a few spots that will be visible when the car is all done, so I want to get them right.
Now for the other side:
The owner tried to return the panel he recieved for this side, as it wasn't anywhere close to the quality of the left side panel. Unfortunately, WestCoastCougars said that was the best he could get (?).... so I get to make it fit....
Not sure what die they used to make it....
But it needs a lot of work! The bends that are there aren't at 90degrees and it needs bends on the edges...
Also needs some trimming down low, then I'll work out the wrinkles:
More to come!
Turns out the front end is pretty close - 3/8" out of square - but there's a bit of damage right up front, near the rad support, which may make up the difference. I'll work out the wrinkles and re-measure it. +/- 1/4" is considered good.
When I removed that side panel I found some rust in the panel under it. A quick patch and all is good again...
Zinc weld-through primer:
Also cut a piece to repair the hole someone cut in the cowl for a speaker placement.
Then it was time to get the panel fit into the right spot for welding....
Besides vice grips, I use screws to **** panels tight to adjacent pieces:
After completing the Right side, I went around the front end with the hammer and dolly and worked out any wrinkles best I could. There where a few spots that will be visible when the car is all done, so I want to get them right.
Now for the other side:
The owner tried to return the panel he recieved for this side, as it wasn't anywhere close to the quality of the left side panel. Unfortunately, WestCoastCougars said that was the best he could get (?).... so I get to make it fit....
Not sure what die they used to make it....
But it needs a lot of work! The bends that are there aren't at 90degrees and it needs bends on the edges...
Also needs some trimming down low, then I'll work out the wrinkles:
More to come!
Last edited:
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Actually just the opposite Larry. Body shops are OK with WD-40 because it DOESN'T contain silicone. But you're right about silicone products - Armourall is the worst offender!
From the WD-40 website:
"While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents"
Actually just the opposite Larry. Body shops are OK with WD-40 because it DOESN'T contain silicone. But you're right about silicone products - Armourall is the worst offender!
From the WD-40 website:
"While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents"
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
I am glad there are people in the world like you.
I cannot stand to do the kind of rusty body restoration you do.
From the look of the shop in that one PIC and of the back of PU in the other it looks like you are going to need another engine stand.
Fifth or sixth one?
I am glad there are people in the world like you.
I cannot stand to do the kind of rusty body restoration you do.
From the look of the shop in that one PIC and of the back of PU in the other it looks like you are going to need another engine stand.
Fifth or sixth one?
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
There are quite a few reasons why i like doing it - it's dirty for sure - but i really enjoy the process of replacing old with new, seeing something come back to life and even just cleaning and painting parts. And although I find sanding primer is the worst part (really dirty and tedious) - once it's painted, putting new and restored parts togther to make a whole vehicle is the reward. I enjoy that part the most - even more than winning awards at car shows!
Hehe, 5th I think....
There are quite a few reasons why i like doing it - it's dirty for sure - but i really enjoy the process of replacing old with new, seeing something come back to life and even just cleaning and painting parts. And although I find sanding primer is the worst part (really dirty and tedious) - once it's painted, putting new and restored parts togther to make a whole vehicle is the reward. I enjoy that part the most - even more than winning awards at car shows!
Hehe, 5th I think....
Last edited:
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
I figured E-Tek wasn't a 'touch-up & fluff' kind of guy. lol
Thanks for doing what you do, AND documenting it so we amateurs can see how it should be done before we undertake a similar project!
I figured E-Tek wasn't a 'touch-up & fluff' kind of guy. lol
Thanks for doing what you do, AND documenting it so we amateurs can see how it should be done before we undertake a similar project!
Motown 454
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2008
- Messages
- 1,359
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Another resto to enjoy. I like to see how you do these things.
Another resto to enjoy. I like to see how you do these things.
JC23
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
My guess would be a bazooka!
My guess would be a bazooka!
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Had a couple hours today so I filled those holes and prepped the Right inner apron panel for welding later this week:
I've seen cars where panels were welded without using any primer in between them - and rust develops within the layers very quickly.
You'll recall this panel had a bad wrinkle in the corner....
I worked it out using a few different tools and surfaces:
This was the panel as it came from WestCoast Cougars:
Same panel after re-working:
Had to bend out the frame lip where the upper A-arm mounts:
Also did a little work on a Ford Big Block I'm re-building....
Had a couple hours today so I filled those holes and prepped the Right inner apron panel for welding later this week:
I've seen cars where panels were welded without using any primer in between them - and rust develops within the layers very quickly.
You'll recall this panel had a bad wrinkle in the corner....
I worked it out using a few different tools and surfaces:
This was the panel as it came from WestCoast Cougars:
Same panel after re-working:
Had to bend out the frame lip where the upper A-arm mounts:
Also did a little work on a Ford Big Block I'm re-building....
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Oh - thought you got it all from WCC. Do you know who actually makes them?
Ooops - No, I have Eastwoods Ceramic Engine paint. I may have enough for a couple engines if you're interested.
Oh - thought you got it all from WCC. Do you know who actually makes them?
Ooops - No, I have Eastwoods Ceramic Engine paint. I may have enough for a couple engines if you're interested.
Last edited:
54FordPanel
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Are you really putting a nylon timing gear on that engine? Or is it just a dummy till you get a real double roller in?
Are you really putting a nylon timing gear on that engine? Or is it just a dummy till you get a real double roller in?
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
I might have missed it (and if I did I apologize), but is there any way we can make sure this thread isn't lost when the whole "free parking removal" goes down? Not sure how it would happen, but I'd sure hate to see this thread go. Very informative and an enjoyable read.
I might have missed it (and if I did I apologize), but is there any way we can make sure this thread isn't lost when the whole "free parking removal" goes down? Not sure how it would happen, but I'd sure hate to see this thread go. Very informative and an enjoyable read.
HOTFR8
Banned
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Any topics we want saved we should ask the Mods to move to another section of the forum. Hopefully that will not happen and Free Parking will work more to the rules as to what it is about and just the off topic stuff will go away.
Any topics we want saved we should ask the Mods to move to another section of the forum. Hopefully that will not happen and Free Parking will work more to the rules as to what it is about and just the off topic stuff will go away.
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Darrin at Critter Creek buys some stuff from West Coast Classic Cougars and he also supplies them with a lot of refurbished and rebuild parts. Darrin holds the patent on the machinery to rebuild the headlight vacuum actuators as well as other parts.
As far as the Eastwoods Ceramic Engine Paint, Yes Please!!!
Darrin at Critter Creek buys some stuff from West Coast Classic Cougars and he also supplies them with a lot of refurbished and rebuild parts. Darrin holds the patent on the machinery to rebuild the headlight vacuum actuators as well as other parts.
As far as the Eastwoods Ceramic Engine Paint, Yes Please!!!
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Always had a nylon gear - as do all Ford Flatheads - so it'll be going back as is!
Didn't know about FP going down! I have no problem with that, but I'll ask a mod to try and save this thread....
Lots done today - and if anyone is wondering how much time I have into it thus far, everything up to and including today comes to 22 hours.
Here's where we left it in our last episode:
Final fitment, then time for some welding:
I threaded bolts through the spring hat covers to ensure another point of line-up:
As well as a screw into the fiewall to **** it in close and hold it for welding:
The older I get, the more light I need!
The old speaker hole on the drivers side still needed to be patched:
For some reason, a hole was cut into the rocker behind the fender. At first I thought it was done to re-attach the captured nut that located the fender bottom, but I don't see any new weld marks on it. Not sure what someone was thinking, but it had to be repaired...
To get the metal unfolded, I pulled out my trusty - if seldom used - slidehammer:
Almost done:
Last on the agenda where these shock tower holes. The story on these is back on page 2 (I think!):
A good day - more to come tomorrow!
***NB - Thread will be moved to Garage Discussion Section - where it belongs!***
Always had a nylon gear - as do all Ford Flatheads - so it'll be going back as is!
Didn't know about FP going down! I have no problem with that, but I'll ask a mod to try and save this thread....
Lots done today - and if anyone is wondering how much time I have into it thus far, everything up to and including today comes to 22 hours.
Here's where we left it in our last episode:
Final fitment, then time for some welding:
I threaded bolts through the spring hat covers to ensure another point of line-up:
As well as a screw into the fiewall to **** it in close and hold it for welding:
The older I get, the more light I need!
The old speaker hole on the drivers side still needed to be patched:
For some reason, a hole was cut into the rocker behind the fender. At first I thought it was done to re-attach the captured nut that located the fender bottom, but I don't see any new weld marks on it. Not sure what someone was thinking, but it had to be repaired...
To get the metal unfolded, I pulled out my trusty - if seldom used - slidehammer:
Almost done:
Last on the agenda where these shock tower holes. The story on these is back on page 2 (I think!):
A good day - more to come tomorrow!
***NB - Thread will be moved to Garage Discussion Section - where it belongs!***
Last edited:
customcab
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Hi Ed- The way that was torn, I'd say it was a left over from a previous repair. Appears to have been made with an air chisel, then looks like somebody made a "pull" with that hole and just left it since it was hidden behind the fender. (great time saver, huh?)
Great job...as usual too! Keep it up.
Later, Phil
Hi Ed- The way that was torn, I'd say it was a left over from a previous repair. Appears to have been made with an air chisel, then looks like somebody made a "pull" with that hole and just left it since it was hidden behind the fender. (great time saver, huh?)
Great job...as usual too! Keep it up.
Later, Phil
Last edited:
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Hey Phil, You've obviously been in a body shop!
It seems a plausible expalnation, but I don't see any evidence of someone welding on a "pull-tab", or the area being strong enough to use as an anchor point. Anywho - interesting topic.
Another thing I love about this hobby is the people. Owner was just by with a freind and we bench raced for a while - there's more interesting stuff out there than you'd ever imagine!
Hey Phil, You've obviously been in a body shop!
It seems a plausible expalnation, but I don't see any evidence of someone welding on a "pull-tab", or the area being strong enough to use as an anchor point. Anywho - interesting topic.
Another thing I love about this hobby is the people. Owner was just by with a freind and we bench raced for a while - there's more interesting stuff out there than you'd ever imagine!
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
After a little more welding and grinding, I put a skiff of Metal-filler on all the welds:
Time for the floors and firewall....
Drivers side firewall needs to be replaced:
...and passenger side front floor section. Here you can also see the backside of speaker hole repair - I'll finish that out while I'm in here:
Again - first locate and drill out spot welds. I've tried a lot of spot-weld cutters and although some are good, they don't last very long. I find a drill works excellently and they last a long time.
Careful seperation with air chisel:
Surprise! It's double-walled on one side....weird. We'll see if someone re-pop's this part, otherwise it's back to the break and anvil!
Now we're getting somewhere!!
After a little more welding and grinding, I put a skiff of Metal-filler on all the welds:
Time for the floors and firewall....
Drivers side firewall needs to be replaced:
...and passenger side front floor section. Here you can also see the backside of speaker hole repair - I'll finish that out while I'm in here:
Again - first locate and drill out spot welds. I've tried a lot of spot-weld cutters and although some are good, they don't last very long. I find a drill works excellently and they last a long time.
Careful seperation with air chisel:
Surprise! It's double-walled on one side....weird. We'll see if someone re-pop's this part, otherwise it's back to the break and anvil!
Now we're getting somewhere!!
Last edited:
MP&C
Well-known member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
Ed, I know this was mentioned earlier and dismissed with underdash pictures, but the rust and scale on those toe pans/floor pans sure does look like saturated carpets helped out. I'd be inclined to pour some water in the cowl vent to see where it actually drains, as it's deterioration is normally the cause of such floor rust on these cars.
Congrats on the award on the Truck, well deserved. Lots of detailed work.
Ed, I know this was mentioned earlier and dismissed with underdash pictures, but the rust and scale on those toe pans/floor pans sure does look like saturated carpets helped out. I'd be inclined to pour some water in the cowl vent to see where it actually drains, as it's deterioration is normally the cause of such floor rust on these cars.
Congrats on the award on the Truck, well deserved. Lots of detailed work.
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
That's a good idea. One possibility is that water came in those speaker holes in the side cowl panel. They may have been open for years, leaking water onto the carpets. At some point someone blocked and sealed them up - which furthers my hypothesis....
Thanks Robert - means a lot coming from you!
That's a good idea. One possibility is that water came in those speaker holes in the side cowl panel. They may have been open for years, leaking water onto the carpets. At some point someone blocked and sealed them up - which furthers my hypothesis....
Congrats on the award on the Truck, well deserved. Lots of detailed work.
Thanks Robert - means a lot coming from you!