chris142
Well-known member
I got a new job at a place that only works on eurotrash. All these cars use stupid E torx headed bolts. Can anyone recommend a good set? How about regular torx bits? My matco ones are breaking left and right.
E torx sockets set.
- Thread starter chris142
- Start date
I picked up an OTC Master set last year they weren't that expensive (about $100 IIRC) and am impressed how well they work.
EtA this set https://otctools.com/products/master-torx-bit-socket-set-53pc
EtA this set https://otctools.com/products/master-torx-bit-socket-set-53pc
oldwino
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have a set of tekton E-Torx sockets a year or so ago. Reasonably priced and have worked ok so far
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Having a 1/4 drive E10 is key.
My E-torx are VIM, astro, snap on, and gearwrench. Snap on makes low profile, which are very nice. Astro low profile nano would be my favorite, by E10 is 3/8 drive. IM is likely the value leader. Gearwrench are impact. I don't really have any issue with rounding.
For torx bits, I like snap-on, astro, and VIM. The astros are a hair taller the VIM, but cheaper. Snap-on makes some low profile bits you can really sneak in places, and VIM has the half cut torx in 1/4. Get the 1/4 drive half-cut metric hex as well. Wera makes holding function torx and hex bits which are very nice to have.
What are you breaking torx bits on?
My E-torx are VIM, astro, snap on, and gearwrench. Snap on makes low profile, which are very nice. Astro low profile nano would be my favorite, by E10 is 3/8 drive. IM is likely the value leader. Gearwrench are impact. I don't really have any issue with rounding.
For torx bits, I like snap-on, astro, and VIM. The astros are a hair taller the VIM, but cheaper. Snap-on makes some low profile bits you can really sneak in places, and VIM has the half cut torx in 1/4. Get the 1/4 drive half-cut metric hex as well. Wera makes holding function torx and hex bits which are very nice to have.
What are you breaking torx bits on?
These are solid.
Home Depot sells a set of Husky that are good as well. Made in Taiwan, although they may be the same as your Matcos.
How are the sockets breaking? Cracking? Chrome sockets with an impact?
Rabid Badger
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- Apr 2, 2018
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Are you looking for impact-rated?
Ricky Joe
Well-known member
My guess is Mercedes.
jsaw
Well-known member
Grey Pneumatic . I have E8. & E 10 in 1/4" drive impact. Working on Sprinters, I had to get them because too many places I could not fit 3/8" drive
Rabid Badger
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Are you breaking e-torx sockets or just the bit type?
Are they available for impact use?
If you are regularly breaking stuff, it's probably time to spend the $ on Snap On. Saying that, no matter the brand, bit sockets are something that are going to fail when met with a stuck screw.
Dave455
Well-known member
For E Torx - Snap On, Stahlwille, Hazet or Koken. I have examples of each across the drive sizes and all are fine.
Snap On are probably the best overall, Hazet very close. Stahlwille finish is less flashy, but I’ve used these for years without problems. KoKen probably the best value.
Regular Torx is a tougher choice. I seem to twist the Snap On ones too easily for the price charged. I know I can warranty them, but that’s not always the point.
Stahlwille are quite tough, more so than Snap On I think. But… if you do twist one, Stahlwille won’t sell you just the insert, you have to replace the whole socket, which makes the two piece design a bit pointless.
The Hazet are really nice. Nicer than the Stahlwille, and I think as tough. Unfortunately though, they do get quite pricey.
I’m in the U.K. where German tools are usually considerably less costly than U.S. ones, but the prices pick up when you get to slightly more specialised tools. Dread to think how these are priced in the U.S.
So, I think KoKen win this one. Nicely finished, very tough, very reasonably priced, and KoKen will supply you spare ”inserts” at relatively low cost too. 3 lengths available in 3/8 drive alone.
Snap On are probably the best overall, Hazet very close. Stahlwille finish is less flashy, but I’ve used these for years without problems. KoKen probably the best value.
Regular Torx is a tougher choice. I seem to twist the Snap On ones too easily for the price charged. I know I can warranty them, but that’s not always the point.
Stahlwille are quite tough, more so than Snap On I think. But… if you do twist one, Stahlwille won’t sell you just the insert, you have to replace the whole socket, which makes the two piece design a bit pointless.
The Hazet are really nice. Nicer than the Stahlwille, and I think as tough. Unfortunately though, they do get quite pricey.
I’m in the U.K. where German tools are usually considerably less costly than U.S. ones, but the prices pick up when you get to slightly more specialised tools. Dread to think how these are priced in the U.S.
So, I think KoKen win this one. Nicely finished, very tough, very reasonably priced, and KoKen will supply you spare ”inserts” at relatively low cost too. 3 lengths available in 3/8 drive alone.
they are not
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
For E Torx - Snap On, Stahlwille, Hazet or Koken. I have examples of each across the drive sizes and all are fine.
Snap On are probably the best overall, Hazet very close. Stahlwille finish is less flashy, but I’ve used these for years without problems. KoKen probably the best value.
Regular Torx is a tougher choice. I seem to twist the Snap On ones too easily for the price charged. I know I can warranty them, but that’s not always the point.
Stahlwille are quite tough, more so than Snap On I think. But… if you do twist one, Stahlwille won’t sell you just the insert, you have to replace the whole socket, which makes the two piece design a bit pointless.
The Hazet are really nice. Nicer than the Stahlwille, and I think as tough. Unfortunately though, they do get quite pricey.
I’m in the U.K. where German tools are usually considerably less costly than U.S. ones, but the prices pick up when you get to slightly more specialised tools. Dread to think how these are priced in the U.S.
So, I think KoKen win this one. Nicely finished, very tough, very reasonably priced, and KoKen will supply you spare ”inserts” at relatively low cost too. 3 lengths available in 3/8 drive alone.
IME the koken bits are kind of soft, they twist pretty easy. At least my 1/4 drive ZEAL torx bits did. Luckily snap on has a line of low profile bits, which fit perfectly into the ZEAL socket. Size and height are identical, just a slight color difference. Snap on warranty, Koken zeal for the bit holders.
Dave455
Well-known member
Yes, I heard that, but have no Zeal bit sockets.
In fairness, most of my bit sockets (Torx or hex) that see hard use are 1/2” drive. Access is seldom an issue for things like brake disc screws (the biggest cause of twisted bits for me) and the 1/2” drive give me the most rugged option.
There seem to be considerable differences between one drive size and another from the same maker. I have had excellent experiences with Stahlwille and Hazet in 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive, but neither seem great in 1/4 inch drive. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the 1/4 inch drive seem to be the hardest to get right.
For stubborn brake disc screws I now tend to use these Deltec impact bits on an impact driver.
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2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Yes, I heard that, but have no Zeal bit sockets.
In fairness, most of my bit sockets (Torx or hex) that see hard use are 1/2” drive. Access is seldom an issue for things like brake disc screws (the biggest cause of twisted bits for me) and the 1/2” drive give me the most rugged option.
For stubborn brake disc screws I now tend to use these Deltec impact bits on an impact driver.
My most used torx stuff is 1/4 drive, engine bay stuff, T30 and down.
When it comes to the rotor screws, I had an assortment of gear wrench and grey pneumatic 3/8 hex bits. When they twist, usually when dealing with fittings heated with a torch, I just buy the snap on gold bits. Typically the M12 stubby will blast them out.
It's sort of a silver lining here in the rust belt - rotors typically don't stay on more than 30k after the factory stuff comes off. So the infinitely stuck rotor hold down hardware isn't that common. Put them back in caked in grease for the next guy. Best part is when I'm the next guy, and you can use a 1/4 ratchet to remove them.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
If you're breaking lots of bits, VIM half cut or astro nano will help, and the gold snap on bits. Gold snap on bits sometimes need hammered in, but work and wear very well. Usually the VIM bits sort of crumble and break, the astros snap off.
I'm not trying to shill, but whichever tool truck is most reliable and has the best service where you work, I would investigate their options. Generally speaking I like to have 3 options at a bare minimum for most situations. Regular use, back up, back up back up. Sometimes you have a stubby torx on a wobble jammed in somewhere, that you're not going to have 3+ worth of. But if you're doing bit sockets all day, you want lots of duplicates.
With the way you're talking about snapping this stuff off, if VIM/astro and gold snap on can't save you, a torch is needed first.
OP is in the US, and Hazet, Stahlwille, and Koken are boutique brands here with limited availability; with only Koken having somewhat decent availability - in the last year or so. The main appeal of those brands in the US is to GJ members, not full-time mechanics. I'm not saying they're not great, but you're not going to see too many Hazet.... or PB Swiss tools in a Toyota dealership here, because you can buy Snap On and get a warranty, instead of paying cost of the item plus shipping every time you break an M6 hex bit socket and need a new one.
If he's breaking stuff as often as he says, he really needs to go to a tool truck brand, preferably Snap On. And I almost never say that, because SO's prices are just insane
But there comes a point when the warranty is worth it, and I think he's been there for a while.Today I broke a pinless Matco swivel and both of my matco 6mm Allan sockets! Bolt was so tight that I had to put a 2 ft pipe on my breaker bar. All for an 8x1.25 bolt!If he's breaking stuff as often as he says, he really needs to go to a tool truck brand, preferably Snap On. And I almost never say that, because SO's prices are just insane
DRPD has Koken e-torx sockets in a 1/4" and 3/8" set. But Koken stops at E16 on the 3/8" set.
Just curious, what are you guys using e-torx sockets on besides Euro trash? Are they used on anything else?
I seem to remember an e-torx fastener on rear some Chevy truck drum brakes, but it's been many years since the last time I came across anything e-torx.
Just curious, what are you guys using e-torx sockets on besides Euro trash? Are they used on anything else?
I seem to remember an e-torx fastener on rear some Chevy truck drum brakes, but it's been many years since the last time I came across anything e-torx.
Dave455
Well-known member
Yes, appreciated, but I can only really comment on what I have experience of. My experience, in effect, is that E Torx is less demanding on the tool than regular Torx, so perhaps the maker is less critical?OP is in the US, and Hazet, Stahlwille, and Koken are boutique brands here with limited availability; with only Koken having somewhat decent availability - in the last year or so. The main appeal of those brands in the US is to GJ members, not full-time mechanics. I'm not saying they're not great, but you're not going to see too many Hazet.... or PB Swiss tools in a Toyota dealership here, because you can buy Snap On and get a warranty, instead of paying cost of the item plus shipping every time you break an M6 hex bit socket and need a new one.
If he's breaking stuff as often as he says, he really needs to go to a tool truck brand, preferably Snap On. And I almost never say that, because SO's prices are just insane
With regard to regular Torx, my experience of U.S. brands (not Snap On) is that a lot use Taiwanese bits in their bit sockets, so to see a change in performance, you have to look elsewhere.
Yes, I think the ability to easily replace the bit becomes the most important, hence I didn’t actually recommend Stahlwille (or Hazet).
KoKen (with a bag of spare bits) or Snap On would probably suit the O.P. well.
Beta offer a 10mm bit holder, and bits to suit, which is something else to consider if you are heavy on bits. I appreciate availability in the U.S. may not be great, but these might be of interest to some.
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Buckgnarly
Well-known member
I ran into a bunch of e torx when I did a Chevy Cruz engine swap.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
I'm sure the customers would pleased to know how you regard the cars they've put in your hands.
Not a Matco fan here either. Maybe go straight to an impact set, that's what I did. Mine's an inexpensive no name USA set bought eons ago under duress off the shelf at an auto parts store. The thick walls sometimes are a problem mostly with the smaller sizes used inside BMW engines. A regular socket works for me on those low torque fasteners when my impact E-torx is too fat.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
That needed a torch first. If it had a 13mm head you likely would have just snapped off.
I will say, the euros seem to use good quality hardware.
Most people describe them as the worst cars they've ever owned. Jag/LR especially are a magical sort of garbage. They remind me of the smog era domestic engines HP output. How can you take 5 liters and make so little power? It's an engineering feat in and of itself. How can one engine have so many coolant leaks? How can plastic be designed to be so brittle? How can wheels bend with such little provocation?
They're fine enthusiast vehicles, or for people that pay attention and stay on top of them. Euros are not for the unwashed masses.
Just because a chevy cruze is a complete *************, doesn't mean I can work on it professionally.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Agreed on LR, Jag ooh ar, overcomplicated underwhelming Euro V-8s and soft alloy wheels. I have the luxury of choosing what I work on, mostly older BMWs which I'm familiar with so no(okay, seldom) issues.
Euro hardware, especially Swedish rarely gives me trouble. Japanese seemingly make their fasteners with everything from the bolt head down made of Play-Doh seized in place from the factory.
I think OP's situation had thread locker, no M8 fastener should put up that big a fight. Interestingly there is no mention of the "Euro trash" bolt breaking under all that stress.
When coerced into servicing something I don't respect I find myself with a "good enough for this shitbox" attitude which serves no one well.
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wafrederick
Well-known member
The torx bit socket,I have the Grip Edge set up to T60.They do work on not rounded off torx fastners with a better fit.My go to set now
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Has someone been in there(what is it BTW?) before you?
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Has someone been in there(what is it BTW?) before you?
jcbarry
Well-known member
I have to say, I have no idea how your breaking this stuff. I work at a BMW dealer and I have VIM and Cal-Van etorx. The Cal Van are used every day. They are chrome and I impact the hell out of them and have never broken one.
Wamsutta
Well-known member
I think the OP is looking for female Torx socket, and not the male Torx that identifies as a female Torx.The Hazet are really nice. Nicer than the Stahlwille, and I think as tough. Unfortunately though, they do get quite pricey.