To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Easy Out Tool

Cutch

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
109
Location
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
As per my custom...I always tighten a bolt until it snaps and then back it off a 1/4 turn :)

In the past I have purchased an easy out tool only to find that it snaps trying to remove the previous broken bolt...thus making the removal even more difficult.

The easy outs that I have tried before were purchased from Canadian Tire and I am assuming made of inferior quality.

Any suggestions on where to purcahse a good quality set of easy outs?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

mulepackin

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Messages
909
Location
Montana
I use an old set of Protos. The square, four fluted design. Much prefer them to the spiral type. I've never snapped one, and almost always get out what I'm after.
 

ImportTuner

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
5,855
Location
SF Bay Area
My set is about 20 plus years old but still works as well as the day I got them and even looks semi new. It is made by Cleveland and is called EZY OUT screw extractors, made in good ole U.S.A. :)
 

PoorOwner

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 10, 2007
Messages
5,032
Location
CA
I purchased a set of reversed drill bits, northern tool sells it. They should do half the work if not extract the bolt already before you need ez out.

Maybe get a torque wrench? :)
 

MXtras

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 17, 2005
Messages
1,356
Location
On the Right Coast
As mentioned by Mr. Mule, the four flute, square Proto extractors are really tough. I have had the same set as long as I can remember.

Scott
 

Uncle Buck

Banned
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
Through the years I have used the spiral type, the four flute type and a third that I really favor. I have a set of Ridge extractors that look like straight dowels with multiple ridge surfaces running the length of the extractors which are approx 4" in length. A second hex shaped part that closely resembles a nut and has the same splined configuration on the ID as the dowel shaped part then slides over the dowel to the desired depth on the dowel/extractor. This feature allows the user to apply force close to where the extractor is working as opposed to 2-3" out, clearly reducing the likelyhood of breakage. Unlike the four flute or spiral type these are not of a smaller dia at the end but rather the same dia from one end to the other. Damn (I wish I was good at cutting and pasting links and pictures! It would make this so much easier!
 

W-Cummins

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
1,642
Location
Iowa
I believe that this is what you are trying to describe? This is the set that I have, but I have never had occassion to use it....

That's not soo bad I have the more $$ version I too have not used it. I guess that now that I have it and 2 other sets I have the correct voodoo and I don't need to break off any more bolts?? I really like the weld the nut on the best if at all possible. I find that method works almost 100% of the time...

William...
 

Attachments

  • snapon extractors 1.JPG
    snapon extractors 1.JPG
    52.5 KB · Views: 20
  • bluepoint exttractors.JPG
    bluepoint exttractors.JPG
    27.1 KB · Views: 25
  • snapon extractors 2.JPG
    snapon extractors 2.JPG
    14.8 KB · Views: 23
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Blacknwhitepit

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
3,176
Location
Eastern Tennessee
For me, easy outs aren't.

On several occasions I have tried used them.

I have used proper drill size, proper easy-out size (For bolt), drilled on center and then screwed in the easy out and have broken them every time! :mad:

When at all possible I will weld a nut on to it, however when the bolt is broken in a recessed position I end up taking them to a machine shop.

Is there some secret I am missing?

-BWP
 

jimmycrackcorn

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Messages
498
Location
Brooklyn, NY
For me, easy outs aren't.

On several occasions I have tried used them.

I have used proper drill size, proper easy-out size (For bolt), drilled on center and then screwed in the easy out and have broken them every time! :mad:

When at all possible I will weld a nut on to it, however when the bolt is broken in a recessed position I end up taking them to a machine shop.

Is there some secret I am missing?

-BWP

Know whatcha mean, i too use the weld a nut thingy, but if its recessed I try to get them out whole as best as i can, but the spiral ones tend to expand the wall of the hole if you go to thin. But most of the time i get it thin enough to collapse it, and just run a tap. When ever possible use penetrating oil if you let it sit long enough a left handed drill sometimes gives a good enough bite to run it out. Pilot holes save your bigger bits and you can correct a hole if it's not completely centered with the next sizes up.

The extractors that hholmberg described are better than the the spiral one for the reason the don't expand the broken bolts. Man when them things break in there it's hell especially now you have to deal with something thats much more tougher than the material you just finished drilling.

Can you guys post your methods of extracting broken bolt especially if it's surrounded by aluminum?

I have yet to try this method of drilling holes into broken bolts
 

Jbullfrog

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
2,347
Location
Avoca, Iowa
I have the problem of not breaking the bolt off even. This makes drilling in the center of it very difficult. Once you have the hole started off center you are screwed. I have the big Snap-On / Ridgid set of fluted extractors and drill guides, but you have to have the bolt broken flat to get them into the center.
 

Marty256

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Messages
170
Location
Central NJ
The trick to using an easy out or any kind of stud removal tool is to drill the pilot hole dead center in the broken stud or bolt. A whole drilled off center tends to put the strain on the removal tool instead of the piece you’re trying to remove. Some of the newer tools provide a jig for just that purpose. Just my .02
 

jimmycrackcorn

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Messages
498
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I always start with a pilot hole then move on two sizes up. You'll find that the bits cut much better when a pilot hole is made. Most of the time the pilot hole would be off center due to walking, even when you use a center punch. To correct the off center hole just hold the drill at an angle towards the direction of where it's off until the it makes a new hole over the on that was cut. Then straighten the drill and just start drilling down. People alway keep the drill running at the fastest speed. The trick is to drill slow and let the bit do the cutting. I do short bursts and use some kind of oil.
 
Last edited:

Uncle Buck

Banned
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
I purchased a set of reversed drill bits, northern tool sells it. They should do half the work if not extract the bolt already before you need ez out.

Maybe get a torque wrench? :)

I tried left handers once but it did not seem to do me any good. I will try them again one of these days and see if if my luck changes.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom