i have to cut down a door a couple inches. i know i'm over thinking this with seeing the fancy edge guides and rip guides... anyone use the metal "T" shaped guide that comes with their circular saw? does it make a straight enough cut with one? i'm referring to one like the picture
edge guide for circular saw
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gdocktor3
Well-known member
I'm sure there are YouTube videos on it. Alternatively you can use a t square, a level or even a piece of 2x4 that you clamp down once you get your measurements.
racingtadpole
Well-known member
They do work, but it helps if you add a piece of timber to it to make the guide edge longer.
My weapon of choice for larger items is a variation on this theme..
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/
My weapon of choice for larger items is a variation on this theme..
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/
ddawg16
Well-known member
That 'T' that comes with circular saws is almost worthless.
Do the clamped 2x4 method.
I do a lot of woodworking.....I have a ton of tools and I still use that method.
What is even more important is the blade on your saw. If it's the cheap blade that originally came with it, stop right there. You want a good carbide blade with at least 40 teeth or more
Do the clamped 2x4 method.
I do a lot of woodworking.....I have a ton of tools and I still use that method.
What is even more important is the blade on your saw. If it's the cheap blade that originally came with it, stop right there. You want a good carbide blade with at least 40 teeth or more
Hagatronics
Well-known member
^ this type is great for pieces thick enough to use it. Your door should be fine. Most sheets, 1by and basically everything I work with isn't thick enough for those to grab and clamp tight.
The wood river set where you get a plate and screw it to your saw base is the kind I use when the table won't do the job.
The wood river set where you get a plate and screw it to your saw base is the kind I use when the table won't do the job.
Was the motor hitting the verticle piece ?
racingtadpole
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LB-1911
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Give these a look -
How to Build a Simple Circular Saw Guide for Straighter Cuts
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/
Jump to 1:15
How to Make a Circular Saw Guide - This Old House
4Kings
Well-known member
I break down alot of plywood and bought one of these last year. It's been rock solid. A little pricey for a one time use but if you ever get into building cabinets this thing rocks.
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/#
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/#
Wamsutta
Well-known member
I've used that T guide on my Skil wormdrive. I push the T against the board with my left hand as I push the saw forward on its cut with my right hand. It's a little unnerving since the blade is on the left and so close to the T.
Know Wosad
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Those T-guides are ok for ripping form wood. Clamp a piece of metal to the door and slide along that.If your blade is a P.O.S.(most are) set the saw to bare minimum depth to cut through,put a piece of masking tape on both sides of the door and mark/cut through that.
If you foresee doing more of this sort of thing go get a good finishing blade like a Freud ultimate plywood
If you foresee doing more of this sort of thing go get a good finishing blade like a Freud ultimate plywood
Wamsutta
Well-known member
I find that I make straighter cuts without an edge guide. I'm always putting uneven pressure against the edge guide; especially towards the end of the cut.
MattPersman
Well-known member
I just cut down two doors in the past two weeks. Adding new doors in the basement finished area. Anyways I just took the slab off measured my height needed, marked it put it on saw horses and cut it with a circ saw. No guide nothing so simple. Easy as pie. Don't over think it. More thought would need to go into what blade tooth wise to use for the best finish.
I used the quick door hanger product on four doors and man those are so nice. It makes it a breeze to Install new pre hung doors
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I used the quick door hanger product on four doors and man those are so nice. It makes it a breeze to Install new pre hung doors
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jo Diesel
Well-known member
I think this one is on sale right now from HF. Looks like it would work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html
Woz
Well-known member
All of the suggestions to cut a straight line will work. If you have not done this before you may want to practice on a scrap of plywood or cut the door twice. The suggestion on buying a finer tooth blade is a good one to avoid splintering the door.
You did not state if the door is solid wood or a vainer surface. To slip the door from splintering along the cut line you can cover the cut area with masking tape and then score the cut line heavily with a utility knife. These actions will limit the amount of wood pulled up by the saw blade when you make cut. Again you may want to make a practice cut in the door before you make the finial cut.
You did not state if the door is solid wood or a vainer surface. To slip the door from splintering along the cut line you can cover the cut area with masking tape and then score the cut line heavily with a utility knife. These actions will limit the amount of wood pulled up by the saw blade when you make cut. Again you may want to make a practice cut in the door before you make the finial cut.
thebeekeeper1
Well-known member
HF routinely has a "Super Coupon" offering that item for $14.99.
A buddy and I used one to cut a kitchen counter top that would subsequently get the heat-applied end trim added, which required a perfect cut, and it worked perfectly. He has a big Dewalt circular saw and a good blade, so we got a perfect cut and a perfect job. I've used the edge guide since to cut cement board for a tile job and it has worked perfectly.
Zeke
Well-known member
I use the foot inserted guide all the time. It works fine — the narrower the slice the better it is. 2" should be no problem and you can get the bevel on the edge at the same time.
When you are past the capacity of the t-guide, it's time for any of the other guides mentioned. Many things well work well, just depends on preference and how much money you are willing to spend.
I never cut anything wider than 2 feet on my table saw, I make a preliminary cut on horses and true it up on the TS. For that a snapped line is close enough for me and I free hand it unless I need both halves of a full sheet. Then it's time to get out a nice guide because my cut is going to be the finished edge.
When you are past the capacity of the t-guide, it's time for any of the other guides mentioned. Many things well work well, just depends on preference and how much money you are willing to spend.
I never cut anything wider than 2 feet on my table saw, I make a preliminary cut on horses and true it up on the TS. For that a snapped line is close enough for me and I free hand it unless I need both halves of a full sheet. Then it's time to get out a nice guide because my cut is going to be the finished edge.
I have the 2, 4 foot alum guide pieces that have set screw in the middle to make a 8 feet guide. Just a word of advice, the middle will flex so what you can to tape or clamp down so it cannot move as you go along. It looked funny the middle of the door was cut more narrow by 1/8"
Bruce Wayne
Well-known member
What blades do you reccommend?
Zeke
Well-known member
Can't go wrong with a Diablo. Get a 40 tooth for fine work and a 24 for cutting lumber. The 24 is cheap enough that it doesn't make sense to spend less.
wkndwarrior29
Well-known member
+1 these work great for ripping too.
Zeke
Well-known member
Pricey? At 35 bucks that's a good deal for what the thing does. I might get one.
Hawk
Well-known member
Especially if it is as good as other Kreg products.
Zeke
Well-known member
Amazon has it right now at $28 Prime. I got one.
so i got to looking at my saw this morning (menards masterforce brand) and indeed the blade is not true to the base. it's actully off quite a bit (about 3/8 from the front to the back of the blade) i guess i never checked that over after buying it. i've only rough cut plywood and OSB with it, never used it for anything more precision. will be returning it this A.M. thanks everyone for the advice, i guess i looked over the obvious
for long cuts I used this so far it's the best. can cut down to very close tolerance 1/16 or 1/32. but takes some time to setup each cut. it can also be use for shorter cuts , the sections pull in 2 half
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-98-in-Aluminum-Cutting-Guide-J4900/100188970
for short cuts , I don't needed super accurate, I use the HF ones both the 50" and the 24" ones are useful.... faster setup
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-98-in-Aluminum-Cutting-Guide-J4900/100188970
for short cuts , I don't needed super accurate, I use the HF ones both the 50" and the 24" ones are useful.... faster setup
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I'll second that !
INTERESTING ! I have contemplated buying a fancy system, but I don't do enough wood butchering to justify it !
By far, THIS IS THE BEST ADVICE ! Even a cheap, crappy saw cuts better (easier and straighter) with a good blade.
I know this is a "one shot" deal, but with practice you will find that you can follow a line with your eyeball pretty well as long as you don't have to stretch too far.
Also, "leave the line". Sand down to it after.
Last, if the "shoe" will be riding on a "finished" part of the door, place so tape on the bottom of the shoe to lessen the chance of scratching.
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theoldwizard1
Well-known member
The Kreg Rip-Cut is a lot less expensive than other jigs !
How are the saw clamping system and the cursor alignment holing up ? That cursor alignment clamp looks a bit flimsy.
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AffableCurmudgeon
Well-known member
Here is what I do. Guaranteed straight cut every time. Make it in any length you need. Make it with scraps so it will be free. You don't need to square any edges to make it.
Take a length (let's say 4 feet for this example) of 1/4 inch plywood about, 8 inches wide. Edges need not be square at all. Take another piece of a little thicker wood of the same length, about 2 inches wide. Put the second piece of wood on one edge of the first piece and nail it. So now you have a 4 foot long piece of 8 inch plywood with a 2 inch piece on top running along one side.
Take the saw you are going to use. Run the saw pressed against the top piece of wood so that it cuts the bottom 8 inch piece. Now you have perfectly straight guide. Clamp it on the whatever you want to cut. Run your saw pressed against the top piece with the saw bottom resting on the bottom piece.
You can make it in any length you like.
Take a length (let's say 4 feet for this example) of 1/4 inch plywood about, 8 inches wide. Edges need not be square at all. Take another piece of a little thicker wood of the same length, about 2 inches wide. Put the second piece of wood on one edge of the first piece and nail it. So now you have a 4 foot long piece of 8 inch plywood with a 2 inch piece on top running along one side.
Take the saw you are going to use. Run the saw pressed against the top piece of wood so that it cuts the bottom 8 inch piece. Now you have perfectly straight guide. Clamp it on the whatever you want to cut. Run your saw pressed against the top piece with the saw bottom resting on the bottom piece.
You can make it in any length you like.
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